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Isle of Arran | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings - Part 3

Posts Tagged ‘Isle of Arran’

‘From Beinn a’ Chliabhain, Isle of Arran’

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'From Beinn a' Chliabhain, Isle of Arran'

‘From Beinn a’ Chliabhain, Isle of Arran’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2009, 30 x 30 cm

Although I’ve shown this small painting in this section before, I thought I use it again this week as it is linked to the subject of this week’s blog.  Beinn a’ Chliabhain is the rugged hill rising on your left as you walk up Glen Rosa.  Yesterday we only saw it for a short time before it was gradually wrapped in cloud and rain.  On the day though that this painting was based on, instead of the cloud coming down, it was breaking and clearing.  We sat just below its summit for a good while just watching the slowly changing scene of mist and mountain ….the mountain in question being Beinn Nuis.   The Arran hills really are special …if you’re a Munro bagger and don’t do things that are under the magic 914m then you’re really missing out…..why not make it your New Years resolution …to go and walk in the Arran hills during 2012!

A brief lull ….

 'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

It’s the morning of Wednesday 28th December and I’ve just seen my old college mate Mervin off.  He’s been staying with us for the last couple of nights and is now driving up to visit his mum and sister who live on the Isle of Bute in the Firth of Clyde.  He drove up from his home down south on Boxing Day and the plan was to go for a walk over on the Isle of Arran on the 27th (yesterday).  That said though, it was very much depending on the weather, more so than normal as we’ve had another succession of gales blowing in from the south west recently that have been disrupting the local ferry services somewhat.  It was certainly pretty windy all through Christmas Day and Boxing Day but the forecasts seemed to agree that there would be a short lull in proceedings during the early hours of 27th before another band of rain and wind arrived from the south in the afternoon.

It wasn’t great, but better than nothing and despite having driven around 300 miles the day before, Merv agreed that it would make sense to catch the early, 7 o’clock ferry to Brodick.  We only live a short distance from the ferry terminal at Ardrossan but even so this still meant leaving the house by about quarter past six in the morning!  The one advantage though of this early ferry (as I’ve no doubt said before) is that you can get a good breakfast on board during the 55 minute long crossing and arrive fuelled and ready to go.  I must admit though that I was a little surprised to find it still completely dark as we walked off the boat in Brodick ….don’t ask me why …I just never thought about it.  The ferry was quiet although we did meet one other chap who like us was heading for a walk …in his case, up Goat Fell.

 'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

At this time of year, especially on days where there is heavy cloud, the light is very poor and makes seeing where I’m going even more difficult than normal …and even slower more to the point.  For this reason I knew I’d not have enough daylight to get to the top of one of the hills and back and so we decided to walk up Glen Rosa between the mountains instead.  Mervin had never been to Arran and so we thought that this would at least give him an idea of the wonderful quality of the mountains here.  When he next makes a visit in the summer we can then go over and get up onto the tops.    The forecast seemed to be about right as the crossing was quite calm and there was little wind.  Even the grey clouds were above the summit of Goat Fell (the highest point on Arran) and it was looking good as we walked towards the start of Glen Rosa in the first light of the day.  Much of the snow that had been on Arranjust the other week had gone but Nita and Merv said they could still see some on the higher slopes and crags.

It was so quiet as we entered Glen Rosa; just the sound of the river rushing along and the odd pheasant and crow calling…..it was so peaceful.   We did meet the local farmer walking back to his farm and he reckoned it was wonderful in the glen that morning with the river flowing fast and clear.  He was right and it was hard to believe that it was just two days after Christmas.

 'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

After a mile or so the glen takes a hard turn to the north and the path crosses a bridge over another very busy stream that flows down the steep hillside in a series of waterfalls ….needless to say really, it was looking and sounding impressive.  Beyond the bridge the path gets narrower but over the years it has been well maintained and makes for good walking ….if for me, a little difficult in the gloomy light.  Care very definitely needed as in places the River Rosa, flowing on our right, cuts a small almost gorge through the rocks and there is a long drop into the torrent if you miss the edge of the path!

We had no real aim for the day and so fairly ambled along taking in the wild scenery of the glen and watching as the cloud slowly descended onto the tops once again.   Luckily Mervin did get to see the wonderful pyramid that is Cir Mhor, standing dramatically at the end of the glen, but then it too, slowly succumbed to the clagging mists.  We reached the head of the glen just before midday after many stops to take photos and eat Christmas cake.  At this point the path splits, one half crossing the River Rosa and climbing up to the Saddle between Cir Mhor and North Goat Fell, the other heading up to join the ridge on the other side of Cir Mhor.  We didn’t really have time to go much further and the river was high enough that to attempt crossing it would almost certainly have ended in wet boots or worse!  Up to our left though Merv could see a large boulder  several hundred feet  up on the hillside and we headed up towards this for a short while in order to get some views over looking the river…..but very quickly the cloud that had been getting lower by the minute, decided to let out some of its rain.   It was only fine, but the kind of stuff that really soaks you.  Mervin made it to the boulder and then it was just a case of walking back out in the increasingly heavy rain.  The light got even more gloomy but there was a strange stillness in the glen ….thankfully the rain might have arrived but the accompanying gales had not.  We made it back to the ferry terminal in Brodick as it was once again getting dark and had time to get out of the wet gear before catching the ferry home.  It wasn’t a classic Arran walk, but very enjoyable all the same and just great to once again get out into the fresh air and the quiet.

 'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

The gales though, are back with a vengeance this morning and Mervin left here not knowing whether he’d be able to get over to the Isle of Bute …reported disruption on the main ferries again.  There is though a small very short crossing over to Bute that is apparently still running …but this involves a long drive around to get to it.   He just left here armed with food and a large flask of hot tea just in case he gets stuck and has to wait for the winds to abate …it could be a long day for him.

On the subject of brief lulls ……there is not going to be a blog next week I’m afraid …normal service will resume the week after that.  I will however, endeavour to post regular updates on my Face Book page for anyone interested, so why not check that out if you’ve not yet visited it.

I hope you’ve all had a good time over Christmas and have an equally fine few days over the New Year.  Back in 2012!

‘Beinn Nuis, Isle of Arran’

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'Beinn Nuis, Isle of Arran'

‘Beinn Nuis, Isle of Arran’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2009, 76 x 23 cm

I thought I’d put this painting up this week seeing as my blog has been all about our latest trip over to the Isle of Arran. I did this painting a couple of years ago after an interesting walk up into the Arran Hills. It had been a particularly cloudy day with the hills well shrouded in mist as we’d headed up. Then gradually the cloud had broken around us giving amazing views as bits of the hills around us cleared. Sometimes we could see nothing but a small section of the ridge …then it would all disappear again before a summit would break free. We just sat for a while and watched this magical and slowly changing scene. An amazing day and just a hop on the ferry away from where we live …I love it here in Ayrshire.

Ailsa Craig

Ailsa Craig

Ailsa Craig

One of the great things about having a studio on Irvine harbour side, (apart that is from the wonderful views, the sounds of the birds, the amazing colours, the fine food and beer at The Ship Inn …….) apart from all of those …is the fact that if the work isn’t going too well, you can simply down tools and walk the riverside to the sea. It’s only about a ten minute walk and when you get there you can either head for a tromp along the beach …all the way to Troon if you wish, or you can simply wander out to the end of the little man made spit and just take in the view and the sounds.

At the end of this spit or breakwater …or whatever it’s called, is one of these circular direction boards with arrows pointing off at all points of the compass indicating the direction and distance of places near and far. It’s a sobering thought that you’re sat on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean ….bar for the Isle of Arran, the narrow strip of Kintyre and a few small islands there isn’t anything else between you and the North American continent. I guess this is why we get a tad more rain than our neighbours over in Fyfe or Angus, but it really is what makes this west coast of Scotland so magnificent.

Ailsa

Ailsa

But I digress …the point of this ramble is that one of the places that has an arrow pointing to it is Ailsa Craig …the amazing plug of rock that rises abruptly from the sea a good few miles to the south of Irvine. When the Atlantic weather systems are in charge this distinctive island disappears into the mist and the sea, but on a clear day even I can see it with my monocular with a bit of searching. From the North Ayrshire coast it looks quite small but if you travel south it gradually gets bigger and once down as far as Girvan, it dominates the view west. I’m not sure of the exact height but I think it rises to just over 1000 ft (someone better correct me if I’m wrong) but anyway, it does this in style …the island appearing to be exceedingly steep on all sides and making a very fine silhouette against the sea and sky.

When I first moved into my studio at the Courtyard some six or seven years ago, I did a number of pastel drawings based on this island. I found one the other day and it got me thinking that I might do some new works based on it …using paint as well as pastel this time. I’ll probably need to go and sit on the spit at the end of the river and stare at it for a while through the monocular and then perhaps a snooze in the sun before a leisurely amble back to the studio …. I’ve said it before I know, but it’s a hard job being a landscape artist ….especially so in the West of Scotland!

Sign of the times

Towards Blairmore from the ferry

Towards Blairmore from the ferry

Well then, that’s the exhibition at Blairmore Gallery finished. We had extended it for a week and yesterday we travelled up to collect the work. As the title of this blog implies, it wasn’t the most successful of shows sales wise, but it was I think a good show and selection of work and was seen by a lot of people …both local and visitors. I think that today’s economic situation is starting to take a toll and a lot of businesses catering for anything other than essentials, are probably starting to feel the pinch. Paintings are not I guess at the top end of most folks list when it comes to expenditure these days! That said, things are still ticking over and the important thing about exhibiting your work is that people see it. They may not be able to buy any of it at present but if they like it enough they may remember it when the economy starts to pick up. The exhibition at Blairmore has been an excellent way to promote and showcase my work to a large number of visitors to Scotland and as Blairmore usually displays several pieces of my work throughout the year, this may well pay dividends further down the line.

West, across the Firth of Clyde

West, across the Firth of Clyde

We’ve had superb weather in this part of Scotland over the last week, but yesterday when we got up it was dark and grey and as we drove north up the coast road towards Largs, the views out across the Firth of Clyde to the Isle of Arran were rather sombre to say the least. The fine sky-line of the Arran mountains was gone …their summits cut off by a thick layer of cloud.

A passing sea plane ...above the Firth of Clyde

A passing sea plane ...above the Firth of Clyde

From Ayrshire, you can get to Blairmore Gallery one of two ways. Either you can drive all the way … a lengthy drive that involves heading north up to Tarbet on the side of Loch Lomond and then heading up and over the Rest and Be Thankful (where we were walking on Beinn an Lochain the other week). On reaching Loch Fyne you then have to turn south and drive back along Loch Eck to the turn off for Blairmore village. It’s a beautiful drive in good weather but as I say, it’s a good way and takes around two hours. The alternative route and the way we generally go, is to drive north up the coast to Gourock and catch the Western Ferry over to Dunoon …a few miles to the south of Blairmore. This saves much driving and a little time …although you do have the cost of the ferry. This however is currently just £20 return for a car, driver and one passenger (if the ticket is purchased prior to getting on the ferry) and so with the cost of fuel these days, there’s very little in it …and this way you get a twenty minute break and a pleasant boat trip across the firth.

When you see the ferries arrive they really don’t look very big but it’s amazing just how many vehicles they fit on. When we arrived yesterday one ferry had not long left and another was arriving …just a few hundred metres off the shore. In the summer they seem to run three ferries at one time which means you don’t really have too long to wait if you just miss one. We were just second in the line and as such were right at the front of the ferry with views out across the firth towards Dunoon. In fine weather you can get out of the car and stand and enjoy the views of the firth and the hills on all sides. It’s a busy piece of water too and there’s always something to watch. On one occasion when I was travelling back on this ferry with a colleague, we briefly spotted a couple of porpoises and another time Nita spotted a submarine. Nothing quite so exciting yesterday though, just a single yacht making the most of the breeze and a small cruise ship heading south. The weather was though improving slightly and the cloud had risen off of some of the hills but there was virtually no colour anywhere.

A grey morning on the Firth of Clyde

A grey morning on the Firth of Clyde

The work is now back in my studio and I’m already sorting through it and reallocating it. We’re heading up to the Gallery on the Corner in Edinburgh next week to deliver several pieces and to collect several others that they’ve had since the spring. I’m also now working out the exact selection of paintings for the show in the Queens Gallery in Dundee in September and the Speyer exhibition in October ….so it’s all go still.

Blairmore Gallery have retained five paintings for their permanent selection and as I’ve said in the past …it does make a great little day out …especially if you drive up via Loch Lomond and return via the ferry…..and who knows, you may even see a porpoise en route!

‘October morning, below Goat fell, Isle of Arran’

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'October morning below Goatfell, Isle of Arran'

 

‘October morning, below Goat fell, Isle of Arran’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 80 x 80 cm

When you arrive at Brodick, Isle of Arran on the ferry you have two options if youwant to get to Goat fell. You can either catch a bus the couple of miles or so to the start of the main path, or you can walk….either along the road or by one of two paths. We nearly always take the path that starts in Brodick and heads out between the golf course and the sea. It’s a great little walk even if you don’t go on to Goat fell and is a very nice way to get to and from the castle too. All the way along you get wonderful views of Arran’s highest hill, Goat fell and I seem to spend a good deal of time whenever we’re walking this path, just stopping and looking at this wonderful hill through my monocular. It always looks good but it seems to me particularly so in the autumn when the trees are turning and the days are drawing in. This recent painting is based on just such a day.

What’s the weather like in April?

 

Across to Stob Binean, April 08

Across to Stob Binean, April 08

A few months ago I had a phone call from a friend in Speyer.   She said that the choir she sang with was visiting the UK to do a concert in Spaulding in April.  She asked if she could visit us for a few days after the concert.  I said that that would be fine, but then she asked the dreaded question ….  ‘What’s the weather like in April in Scotland? Will it be nice?’

Wow ….how do you answer that with any degree of honesty?  At the time I blustered something about, it often being beautiful in April in Scotland and that it could be quite good.  After replacing the receiver I realised that I hadn’t mentioned that it could be  ****** cold at this time of year too and that we’d had several very exciting days walking the hills in the snow in April.  Indeed, on an April day a few years ago, we had very snowy conditions on the east ridge of Ben More.  April can be a wonderful month but it really is a delicate balance between winter and summer,  especially in the Scottish mountains.  Perhaps I should have added the proviso that she brings a couple of warm jumpers just in case!

 

On Ben More, April 08

On Ben More, April 08

As far as I know, Andrea is not a hill walker, so I doubt we’ll have such problems next week when she arrives.  In fact, I’ve just checked out the Mountain Weather Information Service website to see what the forecast is looking like for the week ahead …and well, it’s looking pretty good.  For anyone who hasn’t found this amazing weather service then I would thoroughly recommend it.  They provide a free and very accurate forecast for the mountains.  The forecasts are divided into different regions of Scotland and are updated every day.  There is a main forecast for the day and then forecasts for the two following days.  At the end they have a ‘planning ahead’ report that outlines a very general prediction for the coming week.  We’ve been using the MWIS forecasts for the last almost ten years and although as with any forecast they aren’t always exact …they are, on the whole, very accurate and you can plan your day out with  confidence.

We had as I think I mentioned the other week, been hoping to head up to Ben Nevis on day soon …not to climb it all the way but instead to walk up a path the gives excellent views of its dramatic northern face.  Our friend Guy has done this several times and said he’d like to take us there on a good day.  He reckons it will be an excellent place for me to do some sketching and take some photos and from what I heard, he’s right.

 

Guy and I on Ben More, April 08

Guy and I on Ben More, April 08

As usual it’s been difficult fixing dates that all three of us can make and in the end it came down to just two available days this month …today and tomorrow.  Of course though, it’s a very long way to drive for just a day trip …three and a half hours each way and so it’s only worth doing if the weather is fine and we get the views.  Then on Monday came the news from Guy that he’d hurt his leg while out walking on the hills above Largs.  A very experienced hill walker, having tackled many of the classic routes in Scotland, he had simply slipped on some wet grass just short of the main path back into town.  He hobbled back to the station  and got home but later found he had in fact fractured a bone in his leg.   He is currently sat with his lower leg in plaster …so if you’re reading this Guy,……get well soon.   As I’m typing this now I’m obviously not on Ben Nevis ….it’s grey and quite wet outside and the forecast for further north was not good enough to warrant the long drive north.  We’re keeping an eye on the MWIS forecast and may head out on Sunday instead as it looks like it might be beautiful.  Andrea arrives in Scotland on Monday so I’m hoping for glorious weather …we’re planning to take her over to the Isle of Arran one day and if the sun is out it’ll look stunning.  Let’s hope she sees Scotland at its very best.

 

On Ben More, April 2008

On Ben More, April 2008

‘In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran’

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran', Acrylic & Pastel, 2010, 30 x 30 cm (Ref 158)

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

‘In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2010, 30 x 30 cm (Ref 158)

It snowed again here yesterday evening and they’re forecasting a little more later this afternoon. Everything certainly looks very beautiful again and when I was down on the harbour side earlier this morning, the snow covered mountains over on the Isle of Arran were standing out quite clearly ….viewed through my monocular that is! It made me realise quite how fast 2010 seems to have gone by …it is only just under a year since Nita and I spent a very memorable day walking in Glen Rosa, spending time to sit and sketch and photograph the stunning Arran peaks covered in snow.

I did a number of small drawings that day and from these I developed several paintings. This piece, although quite small (30 x 30cm) was probably the most successful and it has just reminded me that on the day we were there, we decided we needed to return and walk Beinn a’ Chliabhain from Glen Rosa via Coire Beag. It certainly looked a nice route – better than following the rather worn and more traditional path up the side of the Garbh Allt.

Anyway, this is one of the paintings that will be displayed at The Strathearn Gallery as part of my solo exhibition ‘On the hill – impressions of the Scottish upland landscape’. The exhibition will run from February 12th – March 12th 2011. Full details nearer the time.

Sunday on Ben Ledi

Early morning mists, Ben Ledi

Early morning mists, Ben Ledi

Well we’re at long last starting to get back out on the hills a little more regularly and last Sunday we took advantage of another fine day to head for the popular hill Ben Ledi.   It is situated just to the north west of Callander and stands right on the edge of the highlands …giving amazing views from it’s summit, to the bigger hills to the east, west and north, as well as out over the flatter countryside of the central belt to the south.   It’s also a relatively short distance from Glasgow and so, like Ben Lomond, it is a very popular place to walk.

As such we decided to try and get a fairly early start and arrived at the base of the hill about a quarter to nine.  It had been a beautiful drive up passing along the southern edge of the Highlands through Balloch, Drymen and Aberfoyle to Callander.  Anita spotted snow on Ben Lomond as we passed Balloch at the southern end of Loch Lomond and then said she could see another hill with a good covering of snow on, further to the east …where we were heading.  There certainly looked to be a little more snow than we’d been expecting but as the cloud levels were quite high and the sun was starting to break through, it looked like it was going to be a good day.

There was already a couple of cars parked at the start point and by the time we’d got the boots on and gear ready another couple had arrived along with two mini buses!   The path is a large well made one, a lot of work having to be done to combat the erosion caused by so many boots.  It climbs steeply up through dense mature conifers before breaking out onto the open hillside.  You get fine views right from this point and as we looked back across the glen a thick band of very low cloud drifted below us.  The path follows and then crosses a small stream heading for the broad shoulder of the hill and it was at this level that we reached the first snow.  It’s also on gaining this point that you can see west to the many lochs and hills of the Trossachs.

The summit of Ben Ledi

The summit of Ben Ledi

The path follows the broad grassy ridge gradually up before reaching a final steep section with a good drop developing on its eastern side.  The snow by this stage was a mixture of older and quite icy stuff with a coating of a few centimetres of fresh snow on top …it was lovely.  We decided to stop, have a sandwich, admire the view and put on the spiders …it looked like it might be a bit slippery on the steeper section so seeing as we had them we might as well use them.   As we sat here the occupants of the mini buses (a party of young people with their teachers) all arrived, had instructions about moving carefully in the snow, and then all moved off again.  We gave them a few minutes head start and followed.  It really was beautiful with the sun picking out many of the bigger hills around.  Stuc a’ Chroin to the east of us looked particularly dramatic against quite dark skies behind it and as we reached the summit the big hills around Ben Lawers and Glen Lyon showed up well.

It was the ridge leading away from the summit that really caught the eye though, covered in snow and lit by the sun, it looked stunning as it curved away.  We watched the school party head off along it and a chap from another small party came over and kindly pointed out that you could see all the way to the mountains on the Isle of Arran ….well, he and Anita could …but it was nice to know and I could certainly imagine what they were seeing.  We set off along the broad ridge enjoying the wonderful surroundings before it descended steeply and we were below the snow line.  The route back descends down quite steep slopes before meeting a large track that contours back around under the hill, before entering the forest once again.  We were back to the car by just after three in the afternoon and it had made a great little day.

North from the summit of Ben Ledi

North from the summit of Ben Ledi

Mind you, can’t always get it right.  We’d planned to head out again today but after seeing a forecast that said thick low cloud, we decided to give it a miss ….I have a lot of work on at the moment.  Of course, we got up this morning and there’s blue sky and it all looks great……. ****!

A working walk

Arran: Scottish Mountain: Cir Mhor

Cir Mhor from Glen Rosa

Well, as I said in a brief comment on Face book earlier this week, I finally got a day, if not on the hill, then certainly in amongst them. We’ve been having a lot of fine cold clear days recently and last Friday we decided to take a trip over to the Isle of Arran.

From Irvine, Arran is just a few miles away across the Firth of Clyde. Indeed, even with my poor bit of sight, with the aid of a monocular I can see the mountains at the north end of the island from my studio door. To actually get there, takes a short trip up the coast to Ardrossan where the ferry to Brodick goes from. Until a couple of years ago, it wasn’t really possible to do a serious walk on Arran in a day trip during the winter months. The winter ferry service was somewhat restricted and for me at least, there wasn’t enough time between first and last ferry. Now though, there is an early ferry leaving at 7.00am and, and a later ferry back from Brodick.

Arran: Scottish Mountains: Glen Rosa

Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran

So then, with the temperature at -4C and the first light just appearing, we went on board and went straight to the café ..you can get an excellent breakfast on board and it sets you up nicely for the day ahead. It takes about 55 minutes to get across to Brodick and by the time we walked down the gangway the sun was lighting up the tops of Goatfell and it’s neighbours …all of which were covered with snow. It looked stunning. We hadn’t at this stage decided quite what we were going to do and had carried all our winter gear incase we decided to head uphill. The scenary and colours were so good that we decided to make this a working walk and to simply take a wander the few miles up Glen Rosa in the heart of the Arran hills. With the wonderful mixture of snow, crags, grass and bracken, there would be plenty of scope for photographs and sketching.

The walk along the front and around the edge of the golf course at Brodick is scenic enough in these conditions but as we approached Glen Rosa it was just spectacular. On the north facing slopes the snow was all the way down to the base of the glen, on the southern slopes the lower levels were free of snow and the grass and bracken was a mixture of bright ochres, yellows and terracotta in the low early morning sun light.

Arran: Scottish Mountains: Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran

Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran

After about a mile the glen takes a sharp dogleg to the right and you can see all the way up the glen to Cir Mhor – a wonderful pointy peak at the head of the glen that incidentally, is as pointy at the tip as it looks …but that’s another tale. At this point we were out of the shade and into bright sun and so it seemed a good point to do some sketching and just enjoy our surroundings. Then disaster ….I thought I’d packed my sketchbook and drawing pen …well, I’d got the sketchbook, but the pen I’d picked up was not a drawing pen ..it was a thicker indelible marker pen! Oooops. That’s the joy of fuzzy sight for you! Oh well, nothing for it, I’d just have to draw with this …but it wasn’t very successful and although that day I did three drawings – all of them were dreadful. What do they say about bad workmen always blaming their tools?

Despite this, it was a great day and a very useful one for me. I came away with several new ideas for paintings and although the drawings weren’t great, just sitting and looking at the hills and glen with my monocular really helps when it comes to painting later.