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west highland way | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings - Part 3

Posts Tagged ‘west highland way’

‘After a walk in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor’

218 ''After a day in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor', Acrylic & Pastel, 2012, 210 x 148 mm

''After a day in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor'

‘After a walk in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2012, 210 x 148 mm

Several years ago we got up very early and drove up to Glen Coe.  It was February I think and there was a lot of snow and ice about ….much of the latter on the roads …which made for an interesting and slow journey.  We had planned to walk up the Devil’s Staircase to its highest point and then walk along the broad ridge as far as we could go in the available time.  As I say, the journey was a long one and with the prospect of a similarly difficult return trip, we didn’t want to be too late setting back.  So then, we’d not be walking far!

The snow, just a few centimetres at the side of the road, quickly became thicker as we gained height on the West Highland Way path and before long we were almost wading through knee deep snow …..considerably deeper in some drifts.  We made painfully slow progress as we picked our way uphill, picking a tortuous route around the deepest snow by following areas where the heather was showing through to the surface.  Eventually we got to the top of the Devil’s Staircase and all about was white …this was a place for snow shoes or skis and after a very enjoyable late lunch admiring the wonderful views around us, we headed back down to the car.  It was still quite early as we drove carefully back across Rannoch Moor and the scenery was amazing.  Indeed, at one point we stopped and got out for a couple of minutes just to enjoy it.

This little painting is not an accurate representation of what we saw but is rather how I remember the very white foreground with the darker, almost purple mountains beyond.  As I said about the last little postcard size painting I did, I’m trying with these small pieces to develop more abstract compositions.  I may take this idea into a much larger format soon.

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

188-winter-afternoon-beinn-dorain-acrylic-pastel-2011-80-x-80-cm-web

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 80 x 80 cm

This is the latest of the new 80 x 80 cm paintings and is one of two pieces based on the slopes of Beinn Dorain on a rather drab winter afternoon.  This hill appears most dramatically as you drive north between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy.  From the high point of the A82 just beyond Tyndrum it appears as a very steep sided cone but as you get closer its huge western flanks rise up from the floor of the glen in a long wall that runs all the way to Bridge of Orchy.  Contouring around its base is the railway line that crosses the Auch Gleann in a great curve on viaducts.  This is just a wonderful spot whether you’re driving along the A82, a passenger on the train, or walking the West Highland Way.

To Conic Hill and back

Near the summit of Conic Hill

Near the summit of Conic Hill

Well, we didn’t get up to Rannoch moor as planned last week in search of the little hill and it was such a busy week work wise that it didn’t look as if we’d get walking anywhere.  The forecast for the week though was cold, mainly dry and bright …almost perfect weather for a jaunt somewhere….and so on Monday evening we decided to down tools the next day and get out somewhere ….anywhere.  It was rather too late to call our friend Guy and see if he was up for Rannoch moor and to be honest after all the rain and the mild temperatures of the previous week and the rapid snow melt…we’d have been struggling to cross a large stream that lies across our route to Meall Tionaill.

So then, as we needed something not too taxing on our unfit legs, it seemed the perfect day to walk a bit of the West Highland Way and take in Conic Hill at the same time.  Some of the folk from Air na Creagan (our local club www.craggy.org.uk ) had been here just a few weeks before …they did a circular walk, following the WHW from just outside Drymen, to Conic Hill and then down to the pub in Balmaha, before returning to the start point by way of forestry tracks I think.  The lunchtime pint and bite to eat was very tempting but in the end we decided to simply walk to the top of Conic Hill and then return the same way.

Loch Lomond from the slopes of Conic Hill

Loch Lomond from the slopes of Conic Hill

The one thing the forecast also said was that there would be black ice affecting the roads in Scotland that morning and so as it wasn’t going to be a big day, we decided to leave Irvine quite late …as it turned out, not much before nine o’clock ….and although the roads were fine, when we got out of the car in the small car park at Drymen ….we were skating around!  So much so that we put the small instep crampons on ….and they stayed in place for almost the whole walk.   It was a beautiful morning though and the walk out of Drymen to the point where you meet the WHW was great….wonderful views out over the surrounding countryside …to the south, flattish land, to the north, Conic Hill and the first of the bigger hills of the southern Highlands.  In one of the fields were several huge flocks of geese.  They were close enough for me to see them with the monocular and it was quite a sight …and sound.

The WHW follows forestry tracks for a couple of kilometres and even at 11 am there were many big patches of ice that needed care even with the spiders on.  Once beyond the edge of the forest though, the sun had softened the ground the path picks its way over grassy hillside making its way towards Conic Hill.  The southern end of Loch Lomond looked great in the bright morning light and the winter colours were vivid and bright at times.

Now then, I know it’s stating the obvious, but even on relatively straight forward walks like this ….it does pay to check you map once in a while!  Not that we got lost or anything …that really would have been a great indignity seeing as we were following the WHW virtually the whole day!  But…..as we approach the hill, we thought we might as well just cut up the side and head straight to what we thought was the top.  This is what we did, clambering up steep grassy slopes with increasingly big views until we reached a small cairn.  To the west a short distance was another top..with a short steep little descent between us and it.  We had, I have to admit, been taking our time and now it was already1.45pm and we still needed to take a short lunch break.  The wander over to the other top would have taken too long as I was concerned we’d run out of daylight before getting back out of the forestry and the ice.  So ….after a short while taking in the scene and feeling a bit of a ‘plonker’ for not checking the map to see where the actual top of the hill was …we headed back down.  Lunch was taken in an idyllic spot half way back down the hill and then it was a case of legging it somewhat.  It’s amazing quite how fast the light starts to fade at this time of year and as by this time there were some big dark shower clouds approaching, it got gloomy even earlier than expected.  But the loch did look superb in this late afternoon light  and I needn’t have worried about the ice …most of it had melted during the day.

Fading light over Loch Lomond from the WHW

Fading light over Loch Lomond from the WHW

It certainly wasn’t the biggest walk we’ve ever undertaken or the most adventurous, but on a quiet January day it made for a very quite and peaceful little walk …one that most certainly got the legs working again.  Oh well, perhaps it’ll be Rannoch moor and Meall Tionaill next week.

‘Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe’

towards-am-bodach-glen-coe-acrylic-pastel-2011-30-x-30-cm

'Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe'

‘Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 30 x 30 cm

This is my most recent small painting. It’s a re-working of a piece I did last year, but looks at the view from a slightly different position. The ridge starts as a broad rough grassy shoulder at the point where the West Highland Way crosses at the top of the Devils Staircase. It gradually turns into a more defined ridge and continues over several tops all the way to Am Bodach …and the start of the Aonach Eagach. It makes wonderful wild but easy walking for us lesser mortals who avoid the really serious stuff ahead and the views the whole way along are just spectacular …being as it is, in the heart of Glen Coe. A grand day out, especially if followed almost all the way to Am Bodach before following an awkward little path down to the A82 in the base of the glen and then following the old military road back to your start point. I’m really rather pleased with this little painting as I think it combines the paint and the pastel well. Its first public airing will be at The Strathearn Gallery as part of my solo exhibition, ‘On the hill – impressions of the Scottish upland landscape’. The exhibition runs 12th February – 12th March.

A modest little mountain, a massive view

Beinn Dorain

Beinn Dorain

Well then, we did get out on the hill again last week as planned. We headed for a very modest little hill tucked in at the side of Ben Challum, not far from Crianlarich. It’s called Beinn Chaorach and it’s no more than a long grassy whale-back that rises to a little over 800m, but it is in a perfect location, offering a wonderful view all around. It also has one other important benefit ….especially on an Easter bank holiday weekend …it’s not very popular with most walkers and so you usually have the place to yourself.

We didn’t leave particularly early as the forecast was for cloud and patchy rain clearing as the day progressed. It made more sense to have a late start and to make the most of the lighter evenings. This worked out well as the cloud was well down on the tops when we arrived with just occasional breaks….but it looked promising for later in the day.

We left the car at the side of the A82 (the normal starting point for the Munro, Ben Challum) and followed the West Highland Way for a couple of kilometres before heading off towards our hill along a rough estate track. The heavy snow of earlier in the week was still much in evidence with the hillsides splattered with big snow patches all the way up from track level to around 750m above which there was a more overall cover. The estate track leads around the end of Beinn Chaorach and then along the glen between it and Ben Challum. All the way along were the remains of deep snow drifts and virtually every gully and hollow were filled with snow creating wonderful patterns on the hillsides. The cloud was rising as we wandered our way along the track and although there was more sun we were also caught in a couple of snow showers that drifted in from the west and made everything very atmospheric.

Ben Challum

Ben Challum

After a couple of kilometres the path enters a large fenced off area …protected by both a standard and electric fence. These were to keep deer and sheep out to allow the vegetation to regenerate naturally. Thankfully there was a stile but the track only continues for a short distance and from that point on it becomes a very rough walk indeed to get to the stile another kilometre away at the far side of the enclosure. At this end of the glen there are numerous small streams to cross and each one was covered with snow. We could hear the water underneath but it took some careful prodding with the walking poles to locate and avoid falling through the snow and into the water. We didn’t escape completely unscathed ….my partner Nita followed me across one such snow covered stream ..and ended up to her knees in snow with her boots in the water. That’s what comes of the guide following the blind man I guess! She went back to leading straight after that.

Ben More & Stob Binnein from Beinn Chaorach

Ben More & Stob Binnein from Beinn Chaorach

From the far side of the enclosure it’s just a short walk to the wide beallach and this opens up a vast panorama of snow covered and very shapely peaks, Beinn Dorain, Beinn an Dothaidh and Beinn a’ Caisteil to name but a few. From here we climbed gradually gaining the far end of Ben Chaorach and following its broad and increasingly snowy back all the way to the old trig point marking the summit. The snow up here was much firmer and made for good walking. It looked particularly good too as the wind had scoured the surface creating numerous little ridges and subtle eddies …every one of them now picked out by the late afternoon sun. The bigger view all around was quite breathtaking but our gaze was drawn to the peaks of Ben More and Stob Binnien, caked in snow and looking every bit of their 1170m. Wow! Just below the summit there was a large pan of smooth snow and as we’d not really had a lunch break, we decided that this would be the ideal spot. It was so quiet and as planned we hadn’t met a soul the whole day. At one point Nita had spotted some climbers making their way along the ridge towards the main summit of Ben Challum but there was no one over on this hill.

The walk off Ben Chaorach is so easy …even when you can’t really see where you’re putting your feet. It was one of the most relaxed descents I’ve ever done. Usually the descent is the difficult bit for me. It’s normally very slow and surprisingly tiring …much more so than climbing the hill in the first place.

From Beinn Chaorach

View From Beinn Chaorach

This though was a real pleasure and by the time we were back on the WHW there was virtually no cloud in the sky and we arrived back to the car in the beautiful late evening sun. It was a perfect day.

A walk last March

Approaching A'Chailleach

Approaching A'Chailleach

It’s amazing just how quickly a year passes. Earlier today I was thinking about where we could go for a walk later this week. I decided to see where we went this time last year and found that we’d been up on the ridge above Glen Coe. My old friend from college days, the sculptor Keith Barrett was over from North Shields for a brief visit and so we decided to have a day on the hills.

The walk we took him on is not a difficult one, but it is in one of the most spectacular regions of Scotland. After an early start we arrived at the base of the Devils Staircase (the point where the West Highland Way climbs up away from Glen Coe and over to Kinlochleven. I had hoped for beautiful weather so that Keith could see the amazing scenery around …but alas we found thick heavy low cloud shrouding all the hills and there was rain in the air.

Breaking weather, above Glen Coe

Breaking weather, above Glen Coe

We headed off all the same, following the well built path of the West Highland Way as it gained height and zigzagged its way onto the shoulder of the hill. At the high point we turned left, leaving the popular and well used path and headed off up along the broad grassy and very wet ridge. The weather hadn’t improved at all and we were into the cloud … not even the slightest of views …so infuriating after travelling for almost two and a half hours to get there! It was looking like being a bit of a miserable day but as we gained height we got into some big patches of snow and even in the cloud this makes things look so much better.

After a while the ridge narrows somewhat and you follow the edge of a fine escarpment …which if we wanted to could be followed all the way to the start of the famous Aonach Eagach ridge. To our amazement as we gained height the cloud started to break and brightness started to appear. The escarpment had the remains of a cornice all the way along …in places you could see where it was breaking away, creating deep cracks in the snow that were a deep blue colour.

The Glen Coe mountains

The Glen Coe mountains

A strong bitterly cold wind was blowing now and clearing the cloud…all around us appeared snow capped peaks …it really was an amazing sight. We sat near the top of A’Chailleach ( just over 900m), sheltered from the wind by a large crag and just enjoyed the wildness and splendour of Glen Coe. We hadn’t seen a soul since leaving the WHW and it remained like this as we wandered our way back in bright sunshine. A classic little day in the Scottish Highlands …we had a bit of nearly everything.

Hopefully we’ll get something equally good later this week when we head out with another old friend from Falmouth School of Art. The last time I walked with him it rained heavily for six hours; better luck this time!

Photos by Anita Groves

114 'Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe', Acrylic & Pastel, 2009, 30 x 30 cm

'Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe'