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Bridge of Orchy | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings

Posts Tagged ‘Bridge of Orchy’

Ghlas Bheinn – what a difference a few months make!

It has all been work, work, and work these last few weeks and so it was great to have an excuse to stop for a couple of days last weekend.  Some friends of ours from Germany are over visiting Scotland for a couple of weeks and have hired a camper van for the duration.  On Saturday we drove up into the Highlands with them and did a gentle tour up to Arrochar, over the Rest and Be Thankful, past Loch Fyne and on through Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy to Rannoch Moor.   Our visitors first few days in Scotland, spent exploring Edinburgh, were spent under cloudy skies and in wet conditions but on Saturday the conditions in the West Highlands were superb ….hot and sunny and the landscape looked at its very best.

vacation in Scotland

Andrea, Rudi and Nita on Ghlas Bheinn

Andrea and Rudi were keen to do some walking so long as it wasn’t a huge mountain hike and so our first thoughts were to take them for a wander along the Bridge of Orchy to Victoria Bridge section of the West Highland Way.  The path climbs a little but not much and reaches the most magnificent view point high above Loch Tulla…..we thought that this would be ideal.  And it would have been except that the annual West Highland Way race was taking part that weekend and as we arrived at the Bridge of Orchy…..the runners were passing through.  There were dozens of cars and vans and numerous people and stewards ….all very exciting but not the peaceful place we’d imagined we’d be able to show our friends from Germany!  We extricated ourselves, the camper van and our car from the mayhem and after a short re-think drove the few miles further on to the big view point on the road leading up onto Blackmount.

vacation in Scotland

Away from the crowds, a perfect summer evening in the West Highlands

We normally park here for our annual winter wander along the undulating little ridge leading to Ghlas Bheinn and this suddenly seemed to be the perfect solution for a walk now.  And so it was, with huge views and a good cooling breeze to keep the midges away, this short walk gave Andrea and Rudi a chance to experience a little bit of the Highlands off-piste as it were ….no paths and no other walkers.  For Nita and me it was great to see this familiar place under beautiful summer conditions with different colours and light.  We got back to the vehicles around half past eight in the evening and drove back to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel for food and refreshment ….a perfect end to a very enjoyable day.  My thanks to the staff at the hotel.  They must have been completely shattered by the time we wandered in at just after nine in the evening ….but they very kindly agreed to fix us some food despite us arriving after they had officially finished serving.  Great service and very friendly and if you are heading up or down the A82, this hotel is highly recommended.

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

137 'Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain', Acrylic & Pastel,  2009, 90 x 60 cm

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2009, 90 x 60 cm

I recently had an enquiry about this painting and, as it is several years old now, I decided to get it out and have a closer look at it.  I did the painting after a fabulous winter walk up Beinn Dorain near the Bridge of Orchy.  This view looks from its false summit across the wee ridge to the summit proper.  It was a cold and clear day with large patches of icy snow lying around.  I seem to remember my mate Guy and I sitting for rather too long up here, just taking in the peace, quiet and beauty of the place.   As it turned out, we did head back in time ….just.  It was getting quite gloomy as we made our way back down the final slopes to the West Highland Way and the Bridge of Orchy station.  I guess that one of the reasons I love doing these paintings is that they bring back many memories.

A crowd-less August Bank Holiday Sunday

On the West Highland Way, above Loch Tulla

On the West Highland Way, above Loch Tulla

Not wanting to miss out on yet more fine weather, Nita and I had planned to get out again last Sunday.  We’d both been working all day Saturday and so decided to have a day in the Arrochar Alps as they are a relatively short drive from Irvine.  Then, however, it dawned on us that it was the August Bank Holiday weekend in the rest of the UK and we reckoned that there would be a lot of walkers heading north for the long weekend to climb a few Munros.  The Arrochar hills are very popular at the best of times and so might have been a little too busy for me last weekend! I do like walking in quiet places although whether this is just because I’m so slow and get a little embarrassed when constantly being passed by other walkers, or whether it’s just because I’m an unsociable grumpy (almost) old man …..well, it’s debatable!  Thankfully, Nita similarly likes the peace and quiet and so we’re well matched.

From the eastern end of Ben Inverveigh

From the eastern end of Ben Inverveigh

So then, where to go?  A few years ago on a similarly fine summer weekend, we did the circuit of Meall Tairbh and Ben Inverveigh, the two small but rough hills near Loch Tulla.  On that occasion we’d parked in a very busy car park near Victoria Bridge but once on our way, we saw none of the other cars occupants for the rest of the day.  This then seemed the perfect choice for Sunday.

Rough ground, Ben Inverveigh

Rough ground, Ben Inverveigh

Although both the hills are only around 650m high they offer pretty rough walking on generally pathless slopes of grass, heather and rock.  This circuit over the two hills with the steep descent and re-ascent of just under 150 m makes for a good walk.  This time however, we decided to park the car at the Bridge of Orchy and walk the few kilometres along the West Highland Way to reach the start of the long broad ridge of Ben Inverveigh.  It means a slightly longer day but makes for a pleasant easy start and finish with the added advantage that at the end of the day, you are parked by the Bridge of Orchy Hotel…… perfect for an evening meal before driving home.

A lonely loch, below Meall Tairbh

A lonely loch, below Meall Tairbh

And well, yes, it all worked according to plan….just!   We’d been rather casual and had decided to leave a little later than normal in order to reach the Green Welly in Tyndrum in time for breakfast.  Then however, we found the main road out of Ayrshire closed at Beith.   We headed across to the old Glasgow road at Lugton only to find that this was closed too!!!   The sat-nav put us right but we must have spent a good half hour driving along small country roads before finally bobbing out in Paisley.   Still, this was not a problem as we had plenty of time and so after a relaxed if slightly late breakfast at the Green Welly, we drove the few miles to Bridge of Orchy and were walking by about half past ten.  It was however, incredibly beautiful with the air being very clear for a summer day.  The views were stunning and even I could make out some of the more distant peaks.  Of course, of course, we just had to keep stopping to look and take photos and so didn’t reach the summit of Ben Inverveigh until after 13.30.  Still, no problem, we had plenty of time!   We were still on course when we reached the summit of Meall Tairbh at about 16.45 but it did seem a long way back to the West Highland Way.   The final few kilometres to reach this famous path were over very rough and boggy ground but in the past we’d picked up a path of sorts.  This time however, we decided to head over to the river as Nita reckoned she could see a path along its bank that also led back to the WHW.  This in retrospect was not a good idea.  The ground was even rougher and wetter and our pace went from slow to almost full stop.  Time however did not stop and still short of the WHW by some way, we realised we were starting to get a little late.   When we did finally reach it, it was just after 19.30 and we still had the walk back to Bridge of Orchy to do in fading light.  Nita, who had already done her usual great job of guiding me, had her work cut out as we descended the rough track in what for me was very poor light.  Wow, quite a day and we didn’t see anyone from the point where we left the WHW in the morning to the point where we re-joined it in the evening!  It’s good to be sociable!

It’s amazing what you can do if you get up at 03.45!

Corrour Station, 09.15 Friday

Corrour Station, 09.15 Friday

Yesterday evening at 18.20 we were stood in a very cold shelter on Corrour Station watching the snow fall heavily and peering north through the whiteness hoping to see the lights of the Glasgow train.   It had been a day of very heavy snow showers but just when we thought they had finally fizzled out for the day, it started snowing again and this time just continued.  It was wonderful standing there watching the snow fall in almost complete silence …..with just a little concern that the train might be cancelled.  Those of you who don’t know Corrour, well, it’s the highest station stop on the West Highland Railway line and sits on the edge of Rannoch Moor at a little over 400 m above sea level.  The nearest main roads are the A82 …. a long way to the west and the A9 an even longer way to the east.  There is a small public  road that goes to Rannoch Station, (the next stop to the south) but even this is quite a few miles away across wild and unforgiving country ….especially so when it’s snowing hard!  The only vehicular access is by way of the estate road / track from I think near Dalwhinnie.   Suffice to say that if the train hadn’t arrived, there would be no way of walking out at that time of the evening and it would have been a very cold night huddled together in the open fronted platform shelter.  But I needn’t have worried of course ….at a couple of minutes to 18.25, we heard  the sound of an approaching train and soon Nita could make out its lights through the falling snow.   I guess when you live in the Highlands you get used to this type of weather and just get on with it, but as someone who lives by the coast and sees very little actual falling snow ….well, it was all kind of exciting.

Corrour Station, a wild location

Corrour Station, a wild location

Anyway, the reason we were stood on Corrour platform at 18.25 yesterday was of course because we’d gone walking again.  We’d originally planned to head for a hill somewhere but the winds were still very high and they were forecasting these very heavy snow showers …..sounded a bit out of our league.  So then, we needed to decide on a low level route, somewhere that the predicted high winds and heavy showers wouldn’t matter.

Ten or so years ago I went to Corrour with a group from Air na Creagan, our local mountaineering club.  At the time, the old signal box had been converted into a wee bunk house containing six bunk beds, a small kitchen and loo and a fantastic wee sitting room upstairs in the top of the signal box.  It was great and over the two weekend visits we made there, we walked several of the hills  and on one occasion when the weather was really vile, three of us did the walk around Loch Ossian.  Nita had been working on both occasions and so had never been to Corrour before…..  it seemed like a good option for our low level walk yesterday.

Heavy snow shower, Loch Ossian

Heavy snow shower, Loch Ossian

Of course with any day walk at Corrour, you need to fit it into the train times.  The first train north arrives at 09.00 and the next south bound trains are either around 12.30, 18.25 or 20.30 ish I think.  The actual walk around Loch Ossian isn’t too far …probably about 12 kilometres I guess and so with nine hours or so between arriving and catching the 18.25 back, we’d need to do a bit of exploring to use up the time.

Of course, the other decision to be made was whether to catch the train all the way, or to drive part way and pick it up at one of the stations adjacent to the A82.  Which ever we chose, it meant an early start and when the alarm went off at 03.45 neither of us was too convinced that our plans were particularly sensible, ‘whose  stupid idea was this’ sprang to mind as I dragged myself out of bed!  We decided to go for the drive / train option  and headed up to Crianlarich to meet the train north at 07.45.  Have to admit that we rather over did the ‘giving ourselves plenty of time’ bit  and arrived there almost an hour early ….but heck, we didn’t miss the damn train!

Corrour on our return at 17.30

Corrour on our return at 17.30

The West Highland Line really is a spectacular  railway and the section we were doing from Crianlarich past Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy and up over Rannoch Moor to the lonely platform that is Corrour ….well, it’s just spectacular, especially so yesterday morning with the snow low on the mountains.  If you ever get the chance to ride this train ….go for it, it’s a visual feast.

We'd hoped to get back to Corrour dry!

We’d hoped to get back to Corrour dry!

The day was everything we’d hoped for …and a bit more ….snow too.  The conditions really were quite unpleasant at times but it was a wonderful way to see this remote and beautiful place.  The surprise though was at the end.  After a series of heavy snow showers interspersed with just brief brighter spots, the weather did start to improve by mid afternoon.  We’d started making our way back towards Corrour and were both thinking that we might make it back to the station in a reasonably dry state.  Big mistake!  At about 16.30 it suddenly started to rain and this quickly turned to snow again.  We thought it was just another shower but by the time we reached the station an hour later it was still falling hard  and well, it just kept on falling.  It didn’t look like it was going to be a pleasant drive back to Irvine from Crianlarich but as luck would have it as quick as it started, it stopped… shortly after setting off south on the A82.  We were back home by 21.30 after an amazing little adventure.  It’s amazing what you can do if you get up at 03.45!

‘Below Beinn Dorain, a February afternoon’

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‘Below Beinn Dorain, a February afternoon’

‘Below Beinn Dorain, a February afternoon’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011 – 13, 80 x 80 cm, Price £1250

I originally started work on this painting a little over two years ago and at the time, thought that I’d finished it satisfactorily.  However, once it was in its frame, doubts started to creep in.  The painting is based on a view I had several years ago of the side of Beinn Dorain in the Southern Highlands.  I’d been away for the weekend walking with our local club in Kinlochleven but the weather conditions were so severe that we decided to cut our losses and head back home early, on the Sunday.  As we pass Beinn Dorain near the Bridge of Orchy, we had this amazing view of the steep side of the hill with snow higher up and the gullies with snow in them too.

The original version of this painting was bold; especially the lower half of the painting and it was this area that always caused me problems!  Finally after much thought, I decided last week to get the painting out of its frame and rework it.  It’s more subtle now but better captures the cold light of that early February afternoon.  I think that now, finally ….finally, it is finished!

A long short walk

Meall Teibh from the summit of Beinn Inverveigh

Meall Teibh from the summit of Beinn Inverveigh

‘What we need’, I said to Nita last weekend ‘is a nice easy short walk to get us back into it after three weeks of coughing, spluttering and very little exercise’.  Well that was the plan anyway, but as so often happens, things didn’t exactly turn out this way.

We had decided that the place to go was Beinn Inverveigh; a long whale back of a hill that rises close to Loch Tulla.  To give ourselves a gentle walk in, we parked the car at Bridge of Orchy and followed the West Highland Way a couple of kilometres to a high point overlooking Loch Tulla.  It was so good to get out again and even though the clouds were thick, dark and quite low, there was a wonderfully atmospheric feel to the day …..and it wasn’t raining.  A couple who had been following us along the WHW passed at this point and continued along the path as it descends towards the Inveroran Hotel …..and they were the only people we saw during the whole of the day…….not bad for mid June.  Our route left the WHW and followed a small path heading towards Beinn Inverveigh.  The cloud appeared to be rising slowly and it was certainly above the top of our modest little hill and as we started heading up steeper ground to gain the end of this long broad ridge, the sun actually came out for a brief spell.  Once the height is gained, it’s an easy wander, the ground being a mixture of grass, moss and rock.  Normally there are many wee lochs and pools up here, but the dry spring had meant that many of the smaller ones were dry, the dark peat cracked into crazy patterns.

Heavy skies above Beinn Inverveigh

Heavy skies above Beinn Inverveigh

The top of Beinn Inverveigh is one of these rocky outcrops that just happens to be a few centimetres higher than all the rest …and is marked with a small cairn.  Another little outcrop about 100 metres away also has a cairn, but which one is the highest is a debatable point ….which ever one you stand by, the other always looks higher …until you go to that one and look back!

On the steep slopes of Meall Teibh

On the steep slopes of Meall Teibh

And that, as they say, was supposed to be that.  We’d taken about three hours to do this leisurely walk and had planned to have an even more leisurely lunch break and then wander back ….an ideal little airing.  Well……despite, in all honesty, feeling a little weary, I started to look over my shoulder to where I could see the dark lump of the neighbouring hill, Meall Teibh…..and it did look very inviting.  I think in some respects, I’m a bit like a gold fish for within a few minutes of sitting down, I’d completely forgotten that my legs had been aching and that I was feeling tired and had planned a nice short easy walk.  I heard myself saying to Nita, ‘we’ve never walked Meall Teibh from this direction …what do you think?’  Nita, realising her short day was going out the window, is, none the less, equally mad and she agreed that it would be a waste of the day not to head on over to the second hill.  Our short day had just turned into a considerably longer one.

Enjoying the views from the West Highland Way

Enjoying the views from the West Highland Way

Getting over to Meall Teibh involved continuing along our present ridge for a further kilometre or so before a steep descent to a broad lonely bealach between the two hills.  A beautiful little loch lies here below the steep sides of the two hills and other than the shrill calls of some birds on the loch and an occasional buzz of an insect; it was completely quiet and incredibly peaceful.  The steep haul up on to Meall Teibh reminded me why I’d planned a short easy day ….my legs complained something rotten, but before long we were sat by another pile of rocks marking the second little summit of the day ….two hours from top to top.

Evening sunlight ....the West Highland Way

Evening sunlight ….the West Highland Way

We now had a lengthy walk back, first along the length of Meall Teibh to reach the small road by the Inveroran Hotel, and then back by way of the West Highland Way to Bridge of Orchy.  It was a lovely walk back though especially as by this time the dark cloud was breaking somewhat and there were patches of bright evening sunlight to enjoy.  We got back to the car about 19.45 …..we’d planned to be back in Irvine eating an evening meal by then ….but what the heck; we’d had a wonderful long short walk.

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

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‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 80 x 80 cm

This is the latest of the new 80 x 80 cm paintings and is one of two pieces based on the slopes of Beinn Dorain on a rather drab winter afternoon.  This hill appears most dramatically as you drive north between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy.  From the high point of the A82 just beyond Tyndrum it appears as a very steep sided cone but as you get closer its huge western flanks rise up from the floor of the glen in a long wall that runs all the way to Bridge of Orchy.  Contouring around its base is the railway line that crosses the Auch Gleann in a great curve on viaducts.  This is just a wonderful spot whether you’re driving along the A82, a passenger on the train, or walking the West Highland Way.

‘Winter patterns, Beinn Dorain’ – work in progress

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'Winter patterns, Beinn Dorain'

 

Work in progress:  ‘Winter patterns, Beinn Dorain’, Acrylic & Pastel, 80 x 80 cm

Two or three weeks ago I posted a photo on my Face Book page Keith Salmon – Scottish Landscape Artist. The photo was one that I’d taken several years ago as we were returning from a weekend of walking in Kinlochleven. It was February and the weather had been atrocious ..indeed, it was very severe up on the tops….so much so that on Sunday morning we’d decided to cut our losses and head home early. As we were driving back along the A82 just past Bridge of Orchy we got some amazing views across to the flanks of Beinn Dorain. These slopes are cut by numerous eroded gullies and after the snowfall of the weekend we saw an amazing pattern of snow and grass and crag. I don’t normally take photos out of the car but this was an exception and I always thought I’d like to try and do a painting based on what we saw that day.

To be honest I haven’t really been sure how to paint such a thing and it is only recently that I’ve felt like giving it a try. This is the first painting …still a work in progress …but coming on. I have already started another piece …a view of the slopes from a slightly different angle.

Work of the Week: ‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

137 'Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain', Acrylic & Pastel, 2009, 90 x 60 cm

'Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain'

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2009, 90 x 60cm

I did this painting after a fantastic day walking this time last year.  A friend and I went up to Bridge of Orchy to climb Beinn Dorain – and caught ourselves a wonderful few hours of weather.  It was freezing hard all the way up from the road, but there really wasn’t much snow except on the steep north facing slope not far below the cairns.  As we climbed the clouds broke and although clear around us, the hills of Crianlarich and Glen Falloch were all sticking there heads out of the mist.  Being mid week we only saw a couple of other walkers and when we reached the main summit we had the place to ourselves.  We just sat and took in the incredible views and complete silence.