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‘A frozen February afternoon, Beinn an Dothaidh’

 

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'A frozen February afternoon, Beinn an Dothaidh'

‘A frozen February afternoon, Beinn an Dothaidh’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2012, 80 x 80 cm

I’ve just, (I think) completed this painting after working on it ‘on and off’ for several months.  It is based on a view we had a few years ago as we made our way below Beinn an Dothaidh and back to the car after a superb winter walk.  We had traversed the hill in almost perfect winter conditions with the snow good and perfect for crampons.

I did a small 30 x 30 cm painting of this scene sometime after the walk but decided more recently to try and tackle the subject on a larger scale.  This is the result.

Just right…

On Ben Inverveigh

On Ben Inverveigh

In the past when I had more time, I’d be happy to go out walking even if the forecast was for very low cloud and rain and general gloom. It’s interesting and quite a challenge. As my work has developed though, to take up more of my time, I’ve started to realise that the walks I go on need to be both work and play and as such I tend now to be a little more selective about the weather conditions on the days we walk.

Over the last few days it has been just the case. We’ve wanted to get out again on a fairly regular basis in order to build up our fitness again but looking ahead this week, the forecasts were pretty miserable. Bands of rain and hill snow coupled with low cloud didn’t look too promising. That said however, Wednesday seemed to offer the best chance of getting a few breaks and slightly higher cloud …although it did appear that we might get quite wet too.

We chose to walk Ben Inverveigh, the very modest little hill we’ve visited several times before. It lies close to Loch Tulla and makes for a gentle walk in an excellent location.

Frozen lochan on Ben Inverveigh

Frozen lochan on Ben Inverveigh

As it wasn’t going to be a great hike we didn’t set off too early and stopped for a quick late breakfast at the ‘Green Welly in Tyndrum. The forecast seemed about right and the cloud was very firmly settled at around 650m but with quite a number of breaks offering occasional brightness and even a brief glimpse of blue sky. The snow was a little lower than I’d expected and seemed to start at around 500m. It’s just a short drive from Tyndrum over to our starting point at the Bridge of Orchy and as we approached it we got the first view of our hill …definitely snow topped and with its upper slopes in mist ….but it was dry and so things were looking good.

The big hills of Beinn Dorain and Beinn an Dothaidh were well shrouded in mist but the corrie that lies between them looked great..the steep crags on each side of it appearing out of the whiteness of snow and mist.

Our route followed the West Highland Way from Bridge of Orchy gently uphill through some forestry before emerging onto open hillside …the northeast end of Ben Inverveigh.

The WHW climbs over this shoulder before descending down to the wee road near the Inveroran Hotel. Our route though left the WHW at its highest point and followed a green track across rough ground before petering out not far below a prominent little top at just over 500m. We’d just got into the patchy snow and in the gloomy light it made everything come alive. Ben Inverveigh is just a long broad grass, heather and stone covered ridge or lump but it is superbly located with bigger hills all around and the beautiful Loch Tulla below.

Descending Ben Inverveigh

Descending Ben Inverveigh

As we went along this ridge we were surprised at the snow ..it was a good covering of 10 – 15 cm with occasional drifts and banked out hollows. There are a number of small lochans along the way and these were coated in a thin layer of ice which was then covered in snow …care was needed, especially when the cloud came down, not to inadvertently walk over …and no doubt into one of these icy little baths. The summit is at the far end of the ridge …about an hours walk, and is marked by a small cairn perched atop one of the numerous rocky outcrops. We were lucky and arrived in clear conditions and had good views around us ….it was even dry and with very light winds it made for a pleasant if short lunch spot. We retraced out steps back along the ridge and down to the WHW and then followed the track down to the Inveroran Hotel before walking the single track road back to the Bridge of Orvhy.

Loch Tulla, late afternoon

Loch Tulla, late afternoon

As we descended though, the cloud started to lift and break all around and we got wonderful views of Loch Tulla and the remnants of the Caledonian Forest all shown to their advantage in the bright late afternoon sunlight. But the best was saved till last. As we followed the road back to our starting point, Beinn an Dothaidh and Beinn Dorain became clear of mist and were illuminated by the last rays of the fast sinking sun ….quite stunning and the best view of these hills I’ve ever had.

We got back to the car just after the sun had set and after changing out of the walking gear, decided to check out the Bridge of Orchy Hotel. Perfect timing …they started serving food at six o’clock. With a warm fire, friendly service and great food it made for the perfect end to our day.

Last light, Beinn Dorain

Last light, Beinn Dorain

We had a fine day the previous Saturday at the preview to the exhibition at The Strathearn Gallery. The show, comprising paintings by myself and a wonderful selection of glassware and sculpture by Scott Irvine, looks great …even though I say it myself! I was very pleased with the way it had all gone together and Fiona, the gallery owner, had done a fantastic job at hanging and presenting all the work. We had a pretty good turn out despite forecasts for snow. So, if you haven’t had a chance t get along to see it …well, I think you’ll find it a worth while trip.

Into the hills

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Agricultural land around Speyer

I had an interesting day on Sunday. I was invited to join some friends for a wee tour to see some of the typical local landscape.

We spent the morning looking at some of the very local landscape…..the flat agricultural area adjacent to the Rhine. It’s nearly all crops that are grown here with just a limited amount of grazing. Apparently the humid environment is perfect for the biting insects which can be a real nuisance for both humans and animals alike during the warm summer months. My friends had said the colours of the crops were quite impressive and reminded them of some of my paintings …and they were right. We walked along one path the bordered fields that were just brightly striped with long lines of different crops – different types of lettuce, barley, wheat …and a massive patch of spring onions. It really was quite impressive and I may well try and work a painting out of this strange man made landscape. There were plenty of trees interspersed with the fields as well as villages and further off still …the wooded hills rising several hundred metres and looking very inviting through my monocular.

After this we went down to the side of the Rhine …only to be surprised to find it flooding and the path along it’s banks under water in places. This section though was protected by a large dyke about fifty metres from the rivers edge and we were able to walk along looking out across the fast moving and rather muddy waters. Apparently there had been very heavy rain in the Alps recently and we were looking at the results.

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A view from the castle

After lunch we drove south and then west, moving from the flat agricultural areas to rising ground, vines and beautiful old villages of timber framed farm houses. As we gained height the hills stretching right across the horizon to the west, grew more impressive and were clearly heavily wooded. Around us now were just vast areas of vines …it was absolutely beautiful. Within a short time we were getting close to the first of the hills. They were not particularly high, rising to perhaps a little over 400m, but rose steeply from the surrounding areas of vine and their sides and tops were thickly wooded. The road we were on climbed and entered these woods, zigzagging its way uphill to reach a large car park …a popular spot evidently. From here a broad path wandered its way uphill through the trees. It was rich deciduous woodland full of birdsong …but in the dense mass of branches and leaves it was difficult to see the singers!

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In the hills, sw of Speyer

After about a kilometre the forest cleared to reveal a magnificent ruined castle. It was well preserved and sat atop the hill, built into the natural sandstone. The ramparts fell steeply away and offered magnificent views all around….west across numerous low wooded hills towards France, and in the other direction out across the plains towards the Rhine and the slightly higher hills of the Black Forest. The weather was bright but with large white clouds that created deep shadows across the fields and small villages below us …a stunning patchwork of the German landscape. Being one used to the Scottish hills, it was a little surprising to find that there was a bar /cafe here at the top of the hill …but never liking to miss out I enjoyed a very pleasant beer and caught myself wondering whether such facilities at the top of Beinn an Dothaidh or Ben Starav would be a good idea. Possibly after hauling myself up these I might think it was a good idea …but perhaps the peace, quiet and the horizontal rain and gnawing midges would be best enjoyed without a beer tent!

We watched a falcon of some type turn and swoop around the top of the castle and then we headed back towards the car by a different path. It was a great little day and a fine introduction to the regions landscape.

A modest little mountain, a massive view

Beinn Dorain

Beinn Dorain

Well then, we did get out on the hill again last week as planned. We headed for a very modest little hill tucked in at the side of Ben Challum, not far from Crianlarich. It’s called Beinn Chaorach and it’s no more than a long grassy whale-back that rises to a little over 800m, but it is in a perfect location, offering a wonderful view all around. It also has one other important benefit ….especially on an Easter bank holiday weekend …it’s not very popular with most walkers and so you usually have the place to yourself.

We didn’t leave particularly early as the forecast was for cloud and patchy rain clearing as the day progressed. It made more sense to have a late start and to make the most of the lighter evenings. This worked out well as the cloud was well down on the tops when we arrived with just occasional breaks….but it looked promising for later in the day.

We left the car at the side of the A82 (the normal starting point for the Munro, Ben Challum) and followed the West Highland Way for a couple of kilometres before heading off towards our hill along a rough estate track. The heavy snow of earlier in the week was still much in evidence with the hillsides splattered with big snow patches all the way up from track level to around 750m above which there was a more overall cover. The estate track leads around the end of Beinn Chaorach and then along the glen between it and Ben Challum. All the way along were the remains of deep snow drifts and virtually every gully and hollow were filled with snow creating wonderful patterns on the hillsides. The cloud was rising as we wandered our way along the track and although there was more sun we were also caught in a couple of snow showers that drifted in from the west and made everything very atmospheric.

Ben Challum

Ben Challum

After a couple of kilometres the path enters a large fenced off area …protected by both a standard and electric fence. These were to keep deer and sheep out to allow the vegetation to regenerate naturally. Thankfully there was a stile but the track only continues for a short distance and from that point on it becomes a very rough walk indeed to get to the stile another kilometre away at the far side of the enclosure. At this end of the glen there are numerous small streams to cross and each one was covered with snow. We could hear the water underneath but it took some careful prodding with the walking poles to locate and avoid falling through the snow and into the water. We didn’t escape completely unscathed ….my partner Nita followed me across one such snow covered stream ..and ended up to her knees in snow with her boots in the water. That’s what comes of the guide following the blind man I guess! She went back to leading straight after that.

Ben More & Stob Binnein from Beinn Chaorach

Ben More & Stob Binnein from Beinn Chaorach

From the far side of the enclosure it’s just a short walk to the wide beallach and this opens up a vast panorama of snow covered and very shapely peaks, Beinn Dorain, Beinn an Dothaidh and Beinn a’ Caisteil to name but a few. From here we climbed gradually gaining the far end of Ben Chaorach and following its broad and increasingly snowy back all the way to the old trig point marking the summit. The snow up here was much firmer and made for good walking. It looked particularly good too as the wind had scoured the surface creating numerous little ridges and subtle eddies …every one of them now picked out by the late afternoon sun. The bigger view all around was quite breathtaking but our gaze was drawn to the peaks of Ben More and Stob Binnien, caked in snow and looking every bit of their 1170m. Wow! Just below the summit there was a large pan of smooth snow and as we’d not really had a lunch break, we decided that this would be the ideal spot. It was so quiet and as planned we hadn’t met a soul the whole day. At one point Nita had spotted some climbers making their way along the ridge towards the main summit of Ben Challum but there was no one over on this hill.

The walk off Ben Chaorach is so easy …even when you can’t really see where you’re putting your feet. It was one of the most relaxed descents I’ve ever done. Usually the descent is the difficult bit for me. It’s normally very slow and surprisingly tiring …much more so than climbing the hill in the first place.

From Beinn Chaorach

View From Beinn Chaorach

This though was a real pleasure and by the time we were back on the WHW there was virtually no cloud in the sky and we arrived back to the car in the beautiful late evening sun. It was a perfect day.