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A82 | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings

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Pieces from pieces

Although nearly all my paintings are based on the Scottish upland landscape I do like to try and find new ways of interpreting it. I’ve spent nearly all of the last week working on an 80 x 80 cm canvas in oil.  It’s quite a loose piece and I’ve just used the large horse hair house painting brush to create the marks on it. 

Work in progress, February 14 2014 - Oil on Canvas

Work in progress, February 14 2014 – Oil on Canvas

The starting point for the piece was a section of a painting I did several years ago about the peaks of the Blackmount, in particular Clach Leath and it’s wonderful southern face that always seems to catch the snow .  In the winter months it stands out from most vantage points to the east, especially as you drive across the edge of Rannoch Moor on the A82 and in particular from the gentle ridge of Ghlas Bheinne.  I’ve taken numerous photos of it over the years as it always grabs your attention and in spring 2012 we walked right underneath it on two occasions as we headed up the glen from Ba Bridge.

Since starting to work once again in oil on canvas, I’ve wanted to try and create much more abstract paintings.  I want them still to be about the wild Scottish landscape but in a much looser way. I’ve created a number of these oil on canvas paintings over the last couple of years and am always trying to develop them.   I decided therefore to start from a slightly different place with these new paintings ….instead of using photographs and sketches I’ve selected a section from one of my earlier paintings.  This gives me a far more abstract starting point but one that is still landscape based.

As I say, the new painting is being created using just one brush ….a large coarse haired house painting brush approximately 7 inches wide and at least an inch thick.  I’ve been building the painting up using quite thick oil paint and putting it down in rough, raw strokes and a very limited palette.  This coarse haired brush leaves fine textures in the wet paint that once dry, gives an interesting surface over which to put down the next stroke.  The painting is still not finished but I think it is starting to go in the right direction.  The problem, as always, is trying to get the balance between the need by me to create a landscape painting as well as one that is abstract too……this can so easily lead to a painting that looks false and awkward.  Oh well, I’ve just ordered a load more paint so it’s just a case of keeping on painting and hopefully learning.  That I guess, is what painting for me is all about.

‘From Ghlas Beinn, Rannoch moor’

29 'From Ghlas Beinn, Rannoch moor', Acrylic & Pastel, 76 x 23 cm

‘From Ghlas Beinn, Rannoch moor’

‘From Ghlas Beinn, Rannoch moor’, Acrylic & Pastel, 76 x 23 cm

I thought I’d use this painting as my Artwork of the week owing to fact that we were back walking on this hill just last Sunday, (See my latest blog for details and photos).

This painting which is currently in my studio was created after our first visit to the hill a few years ago.  I used quite bold colours in this piece and have always liked it.  Ghlas Bheinn is the high point at the end of a small undulating escarpment that rises on the edge of Rannoch Moor.  Being less than 600 metres high it makes the perfect view point overlooking the moor and surrounded by bigger hills and mountains too.  Its close proximity to the A82 however does mean that despite the wonderful wild situation, you do tend to hear the sound of traffic drifting up to you from the road below.  This shouldn’t put you off though as this really is a little gem of a walk …especially in the winter.

A gentle wander in Glen Luss

Below Beinn Dubh, Glen Luss

Below Beinn Dubh, Glen Luss

We haven’t been out for a walk for several weeks but on Sunday last with the forecast fine and cold, we finally made it out.  Not that it was a great mountain walk in freezing winter conditions or anything …… just a gentle low level wander up Glen Luss.

We had planned to try and get up onto the hills on the south side of the glen and this would have needed a reasonably early start.  Alas, despite the fine day, the roads were very icy first thing and so we in fact left later and instead of a walk on the hills we had a walk between them!

It’s a beautiful spot though and Loch Lomond looked lovely in the still cold morning air.  The hills had some snow on their upper slopes and Ben Lomond further to the north and across the loch, look particularly fine in the sun.  Having decided that their was now no rush, we made use of the café and grabbed ourselves a cup of coffee before setting out and then headed to the start of a path we’d noticed many times before, (but never walked) that was marked ‘Quarry path’.  It headed into the woods and quickly led down to a footbridge over the Luss Water …which ran clear and green.  We’d always hoped that this path might lead through the woods on the south side of the glen and to a point where we could reach the open hillside.  But of course it wasn’t for doing that  …instead it followed the river back towards the loch and almost before we knew what was happening it went under the main A82 and a little further on, joined the old road that led back to Luss!  It had gone away from the hills not towards them!  Nothing for it but to retrace our steps back to a couple of side paths we’d noticed.  The first one seemed hopeful, leading through the woods in roughly the right direction, but after another couple of hundred metres we reached a fence with a sign saying ‘access to cottage only, please return to bridge over the Luss Water and follow sign for the hills’!  The only sign we knew and had seen for the hills was the one pointing to the path up Beinn Dubh on the north side of the glen …a walk we’d done many times before.  The second little side path we’d seen, meandered through the trees on the north side of the stream but then faded out at a view point over looking the green water ….very nice but not quite what we were looking for.

In Glen Luss

In Glen Luss

I should really have looked at the hill guide before setting out as this I know has a route leading up onto the southern Glen Luss Hills …but of course in our over relaxed start I didn’t think.  By the time we’d got back to the small single track road leading up the glen it was about 11.45 and so we simply decided to walk it to the end of the tarmac and then continue along the track heading west through the glen.  The tarmac runs for several kilometres to just below the base of Mid Hill and we’d walked back along it a good number of times after completing the circuit of Beinn Dubh and Mid Hill, but we’d never just walked it for its’ own sake …just to enjoy the views of the hills all around.

Mist breaking around Beinn Dubh, Luss Hills

Mist breaking around Beinn Dubh, Luss Hills

And so that was our walk ….a gentle wander along a single track road through Glen Luss.  It really was beautiful though, the low winter sun illuminating the hills with their snow covered tops.  At the end of the tarmac a slight detour is needed to avoid walking through a small farm.  A footpath leads away from the main track and skirts the hill for a few hundred metres before picking up the main track again.  This was very icy and we were skating around like mad things.  The track beyond looked almost solid ice and so it seemed like a good spot to sit and have lunch and just enjoy the peace and quiet.  I put the ‘spiders’ on, (small in-step crampons) to make things easier on the ice and then we headed back….reaching Luss in time for another cup of coffee.  It had been a strange and slightly different walk to that originally planned …but very enjoyable and very relaxing too …just what was needed.

In the Luss Hills

In the Luss Hills

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A big little walk

Doune Hill from the slopes of Tullick Hill

Doune Hill from the slopes of Tullick Hill

One of the things I love about Scotland is that however well you think you know an area ….there is always something new to explore tucked away around the corner…..it’s great. Glen Douglas is just such a place. It runs from the western shores of Loch Lomond over to the eastern shores of Loch Long and a small single track road runs along its length connecting it to the main roads at either end. For year’s we’ve been driving past the end of this little road heading for other glens, or other hills and we’ve never really noticed or thought about it. On our annual visit to walk Beinn Dubh and Mid Hill however, we do, albeit briefly, get a view down into Glen Douglas …but that’s all we’ve ever seen of it ….until last Sunday that is.

On Tullich Hill

On Tullich Hill

The three hills to the north of Glen Douglas have not been completely out of mind though. I did a short winter walk with my friend Guy about ten years ago ….from Tarbet up steep slopes to the summit of Ben Reoch and it did make me realise what a great view point this group of hills made …especially of the Cobbler and its neighbours. So then, last weekend we decided to go and walk all three of these hills to the north of Glen Douglas ….making an interesting and quite strenuous little day.

Turning off the A82 just beyond the Inverbeg Inn, we were immediately impressed by how quiet and beautiful the glen was….a real little hidden gem. Indeed, in the bright spring morning light …well it looked stunning ….and these very modest hills somehow looked much bigger and more dramatic. The circuit we planned to do took in Tullich Hill, Ben Reoch and Beinn Bhreac, starting and finishing at Invergroin.

The Arrochar Alps from Tullich Hill

The Arrochar Alps from Tullich Hill

Access to the open hillside can be gained through a gate just beyond the bridge at Invergroin and from there it’s simply a case of making your way, at first, gently and then more steeply up the very obvious SE ridge of Tullich Hill. We’d only gone a very short distance when Anita spotted a very large bird …with several small birds following it. I barely saw it but Anita watched it for quite a while with a monocular and she was happy that it was a Golden Eagle she was watching ….a great start to the day. About half way up the ridge a small band of crags appears, but a steep band of grass leads through them and onto easier angled ground. Beyond this the ridge is a little more defined with the ground falling away steeply on your left with increasingly impressive views across to Doune Hill, Loch Long and as the ground eases as you near the summit, all the way to Arran and Ailsa Craig beyond. It’s a steep little climb and we were well glad of a sit down, sheltering from the cold wind behind a rock and just taking in the beauty and quietness of our surroundings.

The North Peak of the Cobbler, Beinn Ime and Beinn Narnain from An t'Sreang

The North Peak of the Cobbler, Beinn Ime and Beinn Narnain from An t'Sreang

Our next objective was the slightly higher top of Ben Reoch (661m) about 2km to the north east of us. To get there though is no easy stroll ….it involves descending just under 300m to the wild little col of An t’Sreang and then climbing very steep slopes to regain the height …plus a little, in order to reach the next summit. The views across to the Arrochar Alps were superb all the way. The Cobbler and Beinn Narnain had a little snow on them but their bigger neighbour Beinn Ime had a good covering and looked very dramatic against the now darker and mainly cloud covered sky. Near the top of the steep slopes my legs started to cramp and I made an undignified slump to the turf to wait for it to clear. It gave me a good chance to moan ….but then I remembered the views and forgot for a short while, about my complaining legs!

North from Ben Reoch

North from Ben Reoch

As you reach the small cairn marking the top of Ben Reoch, the views in the other direction really open up. The ground drops away in front of you and you can see for many miles up and down Loch Lomond. Across the water is Ben Lomond and to the north east the easily recognisable snow covered summits of Ben More and Stob Binnian.

Towards Beinn Bhreac

Towards Beinn Bhreac

By now it was about half past three and we still had quite a way to go across to our final summit of the day …Beinn Bhreac at 681m. Thankfully there isn’t another steep descent and climb between these two hills, just a gentle loss of height and a wander along a broad gently rising ridge. The final few metres are topped with small crags and the trig point sits atop a prominent little knoll high above Loch Lomond. It’s a lofty little spot and a great end to a fine circuit. The descent on steep grassy slopes back to Invergroin was easy albeit a little long winded ….with me going at my normal snails pace …but the views were still fine and as we got lower the late sun came out to give a bit of warmth and finish the day in style. We were tired though …we’d been walking for just on nine hours …..and as I said …there was quite a lot of up …and down ….Nita’s quote of the day as we walked the half kilometre back along the wee road to the car, ‘I’ve got legs like those of a rubber chicken!’ I knew how she felt …only thing for it was to head to the Inverbeg Inn for some much needed food.

Loch Lomond from the summit of Beinn Bhreac

Loch Lomond from the summit of Beinn Bhreac

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‘Glen Etive, winter afternoon’

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‘Glen Etive, winter afternoon’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2010, 60 x 30 cm

Yesterday we were walking on a hill called Beinn a’ Chrulaiste.   It rises on the north side of the A82 and from its top you look south into Glen Etive.  This painting is based on the same view …but from road level ….and under very different conditions.  On the day in question there was snow on the upper slopes of all the hills and the cloud and mist was shrouding many of the hills ….it was a cold and wintry afternoon.  This is one of four paintings that I did, all based on this moment; I may have to paint some more, but this time under the calm and hazy spring conditions we experienced yesterday.

Spring is here…

 Criese breaking clear of the cloud

Criese breaking clear of the cloud

I always know when spring has arrived ….it is the first day of the year when I go walking…and end up with a sun burnt forehead!  Yesterday was just such a day and the sun block has now been added to the rucksack…..a little late admittedly but at least I’ll be prepared the next time we go out in the sun.

In fact, it didn’t seem like we’d even need sun glasses when we arrived at the parking spot on the A82 between Buachaille Etive Mor and Beinn a’ Chrulaiste ….there was a heavy layer of cloud shrouding all the summits.  That said however, we had set out from Irvine two and a quarter hours earlier under clear skies and only ran into the cloud as we got to Loch Lomond.  Even as we put the boots on and added another layer against the cold easterly wind, a feint glimmer of sunlight appeared and so we had high hopes for better things to come.  Quite just how much better though we’d never have imagined.

Buachaille Etive Mor from Meall Bhalach

Buachaille Etive Mor from Meall Bhalach

We’d been wanting to revisit Beinn a’ Chrulaiste for a while …it’s in a great location, placed as it is between Rannoch Moor and at the heads of Glen Etive and Glen Coe.  In the past though we’d either failed to get to the top and / or the weather had been dreadful.  On the one occasion we did make the cairn and trig point marking its 857m summit (after an ‘interesting’ scramble up the Pink Rib, we’d caught only a glimpse of the fine view before the cloud, sleet and wind arrived again and we had to scuttle back down to the car in the gloom.  On that occasion though, the glimpse did allow us to see the broad curving ridge leading off at first in a north easterly direction and then east over the gentle hummocks of Meall Bhalach.  From that point on I’ve often thought that this would make a fine circuit of this hill …and I wanted to come back and do it on a fine day.

Beinn a' Chrulaiste from Meall Bhalach

Beinn a' Chrulaiste from Meall Bhalach

This was it and we started by walking the old road the couple of kilometres to the Kings House Hotel and then carried on along the estate track marked with a sign post saying ‘Footpath to Rannoch – 12 miles’.  This track led roughly in the right direction for us but after another couple of kilometres we abandoned it and headed across the bog, making for the low end of the Meall Bhalach ridge.  It was hard work picking our way through and over this very rough and boggy ground but as we did, the cloud all around started to lift and break and we got our first views of the dramatic summit of Criese breaking clear ….it looked very dramatic with the large patches of snow on its highest slopes.  The Buachaille though, along with our more modest summit, remained defiantly cloudy.  As we gained height though the cloud became less and more broken and the bright sun and blue skies began to take over.

Ben Nevis from Meall Bhalach ...with a bit of zoom!

Ben Nevis from Meall Bhalach ...with a bit of zoom!

The long summit area of Meall Bhalach is flat and stony and is littered with small lochs, each one now reflecting the blue sky above.  The Buachaille finally shed its cloudy toupee a short while before we reached this top and the views from this point onwards were just incredible.   To the north and east lay the huge Blackwater Reservoir and Rannoch Moor, west the snow topped peaks of the Mamores and behind, the bulk of Ben Nevis.  South, we looked across to the steep craggy slopes of Beinn a’ Chrulaiste …the edge marked by the brilliant white …the remains of cornices.  Behind this, the dramatic peak of Stob Dearg (the north eastern summit of Buachaille Etive Mor) rose into the sky, its huge crags dropping out of sight behind Beinn a’ Chrulaiste.  Wow, what a place to stand..and it was so silent, we couldn’t even hear the traffic down on the main road.

Lunch spot ..overlooking the Blackwater Reservoir dam

Lunch spot ..overlooking the Blackwater Reservoir dam

We spent a long time just wandering around this top, peering into all the wee lochs, many of them teeming with frogs and beetles ….all seemingly awake again after the cold of the winter.  Just below the  small cairn marking the 708m summit of Meall Bhalach, we stopped for half and hour or so and just enjoyed the warm sun and the huge views out to Ben Nevis.  As we did, I heard very faintly, the honks of approaching geese.  They were flying north for the summer and as we sat and waited, they appeared high above us, their white plumage catching the sunlight. They were a talkative bunch and we could hear them long after they disappeared from view …aiming just to the left of Ben Nevis ….perhaps, like all groups out in the wild …they were having a difference of opinion as to which way to go!

A wild and beautiful country, NE from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

A wild and beautiful country, NE from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

Beyond Meall Bhalach, the ridge curves and rising to join Beinn a’ Chrulaiste.  We followed this, picking our way through a more rocky section before getting onto the main back of the hill.  From here the views opened out even more …this time looking out over the magnificent peaks of Glen Coe.  More sitting and gawping ensued at the summit cairn before at just after three o’clock, we decided we’d better make our way down.  For the most part it was a relatively easy descent on steep grass, but there were some steep and stony sections, slippery too with all the water draining into the moor below.  I’m always at my slowest when descending, but even so we were back at the track by the hotel by just after five thirty…just in time to see the sun go down behind the Buachaille ….the perfect finish to a perfect day.

The glen Coe mountains from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

The glen Coe mountains from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

 

The Buachaille, evening

The Buachaille, evening

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Back on the hill

'Loch Tulla and Beinn an Dothaidh'

'Loch Tulla and Beinn an Dothaidh'

It had been a few weeks since we last went for a walk and so when we saw the forecast for Sunday ….dry, cold and sunny ….we just had to make the most of it. As I think I said in a blog the other week, we have been planning to revisit Ghlas Beinn, the small hill on the edge of Rannoch Moor …..that we walked back in December 2009. When we were there that year there was no snow at lower levels, just some up on the high tops. It was though, very cold and the peat was frozen as were the moor-land lochs. This time, after a relatively mild week beforehand, it had once again turned cold and we were hoping to find snow even down to low level.

Our first concern though was the state of the roads ….it’s almost a 100 mile drive to the start point on the A82 on Blackmount and after numerous heavy rain and sleet showers on Saturday, the roads were still wet when we went to bed …it seemed likely that everything would be covered in ice in the morning. Strangely though, when I got up at about six o’clock on Sunday morning and stuck my head outside the front door ….there was virtually no frost and the roads were fine. The walk we planned was not a long one, (probably no more than six or seven kilometres) and there was only about 300m of ascent. There was no need for a really early start and after much dawdling around; we finally got away a little after eight. By that time it was well light and the early cloud cover had already broken and the skies were a clear blue ….it looked set to be a really good day.

'The small summit of Ghlas Beinn'

'The small summit of Ghlas Beinn'

I had expected to see snow on the Luss Hills as we drove up the side of Loch Lomond, but they were completely clear. The only snow was up high …above about 800m on Ben Lomond and Ben Vorlich. It was quite mild too …the car thermometer reckons it was 3 C by the side of the loch. What had happened to the real cold that was forecast? As we followed the road past the northern end of Loch Lomond and up Glen Falloch, there was a very noticeable drop in temperature inside the car and by the time we arrived at Crianlarich …it was -1 C outside and there was a covering of snow everywhere ….we’d gone from spring back into winter a just a matter of five or six miles! Everywhere looked beautiful and it looked like we were going to have a good walk.

We reached our start point, at about 10.30 after a short stop at the Green Welly in Tyndrum en route and there were a good number of cars stopped and people were admiring the stunning view out over Loch Tulla. This is a very popular view point and most of the time there is a mobile tea and burger bar parked here ….and someone playing the bag pipes. No such thing on Sunday …I guess mid February is pushing it a bit …though from the look of it, they could have done a good bit of business even so. By this time a fair amount of cloud had bubbled up but it made for much more interesting colours. We simply crossed the road a short distance to the north of the lay-by and headed up the grassy slopes. As at Crianlarich, there was a slight covering of snow everywhere and with the temperature still below or around freezing, it made that wonderful ‘crump’ sound as you walked on it. A short distance from the edge of the road you are blocked by a fence …not marked on the map. Thankfully at a point where it takes a slight bend, there is a small post driven into the ground ….allowing you to step over the wire without risking damaging it.

'A walk in the wild!'

'A walk in the wild!'

The views of course were stunning from the outset especially as some of the bigger hills were illuminated by bright sun. After gaining a few hundred feet in ascent it becomes obvious that you are on a long broad grass and heather ridge ….ahead were a series of small tops …each one slightly higher than the next. On gaining the first of these the views become even bigger and the ground on the west side drops more steeply. We stopped on one of these first knolls and just sat down to enjoy these amazing surroundings …and of course a cup of coffee. One of the reasons for coming back to this place was the hope that I’d be able to develop new paintings from the experience. With the light snow cover everything looked very different from when we were last up there ….and with the constantly moving clouds, the patchwork of light and shade and the corresponding colours ….the scene around us changed from minute to minute. There was a stiff breeze blowing and it was too cold to draw, but I took numerous photos trying to capture some of these colours and patterns.

The ridge becomes more of a gentle switch back until after a couple of kilometres, the final and highest knoll ….the summit of Ghlas Beinn, is reached. For a place where there are no paths, this little top has a good sized and well made cairn ….and so it should. From its very modest summit (something a little over 500 m) the views are quite superb….three hundred and sixty degrees of stunning wild beauty. You look down over vast areas of moor land and loch, but are also surrounded by the higher snow topped mountains. Of course, we didn’t see anyone the whole time we were walking. Nita spotted a large herd of deer grazing below and to the east of us….but nothing else. To the immediate west though we could hear the drone of traffic from the A82 as it crosses the edge of Rannoch Moor heading for Glen Coe …but this was the only slight blot on this idyllic scene. Despite starting late, we had plenty of time and so carried on a short distance beyond the summit ….down past two small wild lochs and on to a final rocky knoll overlooking the expanse of the moor ….what a wonderful place to stand …and all this within a few hours of Irvine.

‘On Rannoch Moor’

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‘On Rannoch Moor’

‘On Rannoch Moor’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 76 x 23 cm

This is another of my recent Rannoch Moor paintings.  It’s one I included and sold in my exhibition over in Speyer this autumn.  As I’ve said many times before, this moor can be enjoyed under all conditions.  This picture tries to capture one of its brighter moments when the sun livens all the colours and the moor turns from a place of sombre moods to one of vibrancy and life.   I really like this area and one of these days I’ll have to catch the train to Rannoch station and then walk across the moor to the main A82 …..I’ll need to have a long look at the map first though!

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

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‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 80 x 80 cm

This is the latest of the new 80 x 80 cm paintings and is one of two pieces based on the slopes of Beinn Dorain on a rather drab winter afternoon.  This hill appears most dramatically as you drive north between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy.  From the high point of the A82 just beyond Tyndrum it appears as a very steep sided cone but as you get closer its huge western flanks rise up from the floor of the glen in a long wall that runs all the way to Bridge of Orchy.  Contouring around its base is the railway line that crosses the Auch Gleann in a great curve on viaducts.  This is just a wonderful spot whether you’re driving along the A82, a passenger on the train, or walking the West Highland Way.

‘Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe’

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'Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe'

‘Towards Am Bodach, Glen Coe’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 30 x 30 cm

This is my most recent small painting. It’s a re-working of a piece I did last year, but looks at the view from a slightly different position. The ridge starts as a broad rough grassy shoulder at the point where the West Highland Way crosses at the top of the Devils Staircase. It gradually turns into a more defined ridge and continues over several tops all the way to Am Bodach …and the start of the Aonach Eagach. It makes wonderful wild but easy walking for us lesser mortals who avoid the really serious stuff ahead and the views the whole way along are just spectacular …being as it is, in the heart of Glen Coe. A grand day out, especially if followed almost all the way to Am Bodach before following an awkward little path down to the A82 in the base of the glen and then following the old military road back to your start point. I’m really rather pleased with this little painting as I think it combines the paint and the pastel well. Its first public airing will be at The Strathearn Gallery as part of my solo exhibition, ‘On the hill – impressions of the Scottish upland landscape’. The exhibition runs 12th February – 12th March.