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A sound plan – my new Loch Lomond National Park drawing project …… and more?

Yesterday we were out walking in the Luss Hills again. These fabulous steep sided, mainly grassy little hills are situated on the edge of the Loch Lomond National Park and give fabulous views in all directions. As you know, we are particularly keen on walking the two hills of Beinn Dubh and Mid Hill that sit behind the village of Luss and over the 15 years since our friend Guy first introduced us to the hills, (on a cold, damp, misty day) we must have been back at least a couple of times each year. In the summer they make for a very pleasant short day …perfect for ambling along and sitting just looking and enjoying the scenery. In winter they are a perfect place for the short daylight hours …especially if like me, you can’t see too much and move very slowly.

Beinn Dubh

Beinn Dubh and Glen Luss, Loch Lomond National Park

So then, we were back there yesterday in what was, for this last few months, a rare day of calm and bright conditions. This time though, we didn’t just go for the walk and the scenery; this time it was for me, a working walk.

Glen Luss

Overlooking Glen Luss from Beinn Dubh

Since completing the big Glen Rosa drawing project at the end of 2014, I’ve been keen to do another large drawing project and as you may know, I’ve been starting to work on using sound with my paintings and drawings. I was very kindly lent a sound recorder by a local theatre sound engineer and told to go out and just see what happened. For most of last year I was taking the recorder with me on our walks into the hills and just seeing what kind of sounds I captured. I didn’t really have much idea of what I wanted or what I was doing ….just that I wanted to capture sounds that conveyed something of the place we were in. I have to admit that I made many really poor recordings during last year but that said, I have started to have a better idea of what I’m after now and have several quite interesting recordings.

Beinn Dubh summit

From near the summit of Beinn Dubh

I decided a few months ago that it was important for me to fix some kind of actual project so that I wasn’t just going out making random recordings. I wanted to do a piece of work that was based on somewhere I knew really well and that we could reach fairly quickly without too long a drive …. and somewhere that we could go throughout the year and in all sorts of conditions. Beinn Dubh and Mid Hill seemed to fit the bill and so this new large drawing / sound project is to be based on these hills.

Loch Lomond

Over looking Loch Lomond

With the Glen Rosa piece I wanted it to be one large drawing and this meant ‘borrowing’ the local Harbour Arts Centre gallery wall to do it. That drawing was done in graphite and as it turned out only took 17 days to complete. But of course, I can’t keep on borrowing the HAC gallery wall every time I want to do a big drawing and so I’ve decided that this new project (to be completed in pastel rather than graphite) will be done in sections or panels, each one being based on view points on Beinn Dubh and each one based on the scene viewed under different light and conditions.

I started the first section back before Christmas and am about to start the second piece shortly. I think that the completed work will be made up of around 7 sections. I am now in process of trying to gather sound recordings and to work out exactly how I might use them when the finished work is finally exhibited. At the moment I’m working along the lines of having a different recording for each section of the drawing and these to be played as a loop during the course of the exhibition. But, as you know, most of my work evolves and so these early plans may well change. I haven’t yet got a way to share these early recording with you but am planning to seek advice soon.

art project

Section 1 of new drawing

Finally, as you know, I’ve been working with US landscape photographer and film maker, Daniel Thornton over the last couple of years. He is making an hour long documentary about my work and this project is still in progress. A few months ago he put me in touch with some colleagues of his who work for a very big software company and who are working on new technology to help blind and visually impaired people appreciate two dimensional images ….. paintings, drawings, photographs etc. They are keen to work with an artist and when Dan told them about my own work they were interested in discussing some kind of collaboration. The discussions are at an early stage but I think we all feel that there is huge potential. It would be great to have the opportunity to create another large sound / drawing work based on a landscape in the US and combines it, not just with a background sound but also with different levels of audio that would help other visually impaired people enjoy the work. Perhaps the new Loch Lomond NP / Beinn Dubh work could be exhibited alongside a new American work? A long way to go in more ways than one, but it is really interesting and it may allow me to continue working as a professional artist even if my sight deteriorates further in the future. I’ll keep you updated with developments.

Revisiting Beinn Bhreac

Several years ago Nita and I walked the three hills to the north of Glen Douglas on the west side of Loch Lomond. For what are relatively small hills this is a surprisingly strenuous walk as there is quite a lot of steep ascents and descents. As such, by the time we’d climbed back up to the second hill, we were running a little late and so rather rushed over to Beinn Bhreac, the last and highest of the three hills. We subsequently didn’t have much time to enjoy the big views out over Loch Lomond or to explore the rocky little tops.

On the steep slopes of  Beinn Bhreac near Loch Lomond

On the steep slopes of Beinn Bhreac

Yesterday, with the forecast looking fine, we went back to Glen Douglas, only this time, to walk Beinn Bhreac and to explore it and its neighbour Ben Reoch. We’ve done several walks this year in these hills around Luss and on each occasion it’s been quite dark and hazy. As we arrived in Glen Douglas yesterday things were looking very similar with cloud misting the tops and fine drizzle falling. But even so, the glen was looking fantastic.

Approaching the summit of Beinn Bhreac near Loch Lomond

Approaching the summit of Beinn Bhreac

The route up from the glen to the summit of Beinn Bhreac is pretty direct and like most of the Luss Hills, steep and generally grassy. As we gained height the drizzle stopped and the cloud lifted, giving fine views back into the glen and across to the surrounding tops. I have to say that it’s been three weeks since we were on the rocky tops around Conival in Assynt and my legs were complaining as we made our way slowly uphill. With the sun starting to come out it was quite warm and it seemed to bring out the wild life…. flies and midges and … a lizard, which was hopefully eating some of the latter!

After so much grass, the summit of Beinn Bhreac is a pleasant surprise, being made up of a series of rocky outcrops and crags, the highest of which gives an amazingly large view over Loch Lomond. You can see a long way north up the loch and right down to the southern end. Directly opposite is the Munro, Ben Lomond which was looking great, although no doubt, it was a lot busier than on our side of the loch! We had seen no-one and that was to remain the same for the rest of the day.

Rock crevice near the summit of Beinn Bhreac near Loch Lomond

Rock crevice near the summit of Beinn Bhreac

As I said, on our previous visit to these hills, we had kind of rushed on our way over from Ben Reoch and had by-passed it’s more interesting and craggy little subsidiary top. Yesterday, we decided to make our way over to it and enjoy exploring around the crags. On leaving Beinn Bhreac however, we came across an amazing crevice in the rock. It looked like the side of the mountain was breaking away and would, sometime in the distant future, collapse down into Loch Lomond. It was surprisingly deep and offered shelter for many plants which were somehow clinging onto the ledges of the rock.

By the time we reached the rocky top near Ben Reoch, the sun was bright and hot and after picking our way around and through the crags, we settled down for a very pleasant rest, enjoying the views and the sight of four Ravens that seemed to occupy this lofty little top.

Beinn Bhreac

Beinn Bhreac from the rocky summit near Ben Reoch overlooking Loch Lomond

It was certainly a fine walk and it was well worth while revisiting and spending time exploring these tops. As you know, I’ve recently been doing some drawings based on our earlier visits to the Luss Hills. I think I may well get a couple more done based on our wander yesterday.

Just another couple of days in the office!

You may have noticed that I didn’t get around to writing a blog last week.   No real excuses I’m afraid, just lots of work….. Including two days in the Luss Hills office!

A hungry Raven!

A hungry Raven!

A week ago, Nita and I were sat on the side of Beinn Dubh eating our lunch and peering through very dense haze out over Glen Douglas towards Loch Lomond and Ben Lomond.  It was a very strange kind of light that day, with heavy brooding cloud cover that gave way every now and again to patches of brightness and weak sun.  The hazy conditions though meant that the views were limited somewhat although very atmospheric.  That day was our first proper hill walk since way back in September and the steep slopes of these relatively small Luss Hills gave our legs a good test!  I have to admit to feeling a little shattered as I made my way up the final steep section towards the summit of Beinn Dubh.  It was though, so good to be back!  We wandered along the broad ridge towards Mid Hill and finally found the perfect lunch spot that also gave quite dramatic views of the steep north facing slopes of Mid Hill, still holding large deep patches of snow.    We weren’t alone for our lunch though as soon after parking ourselves down, we were joined by a very fine looking Raven.  He or she wandered around about five metres from us and although we told it that it didn’t eat Primula Cheese filled bread rolls ….it wasn’t convinced.  Indeed, after a short while we were persuaded to offer a beak-full to this magnificent looking bird and after a few tentative forays, it came close enough to get the food.  And it seemed to like it too!  It stayed with us, waiting for further offerings.    These wonderful birds are great to watch when they are in the air as they tumble about doing crazy acrobatics, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one up so close on the ground.

A hazy day in the Luss Hills

A hazy day in the Luss Hills

 

Yesterday, after a very late start, (we didn’t start walking until 11.20 am) Nita and I were back to the Luss Hills again.  This time though, visiting some tops that we’d never been to before.  Beinn Chaorach at 713 m is the second highest point in the Luss Hills and sits to the south of Glen Luss, right on the edge of the divide between the Highlands and the Central Belt of Scotland.  We’d often thought about visiting these tops but for some reason, had never before got around to it.

Remains of heavy snow ... Beinn Dubh

Remains of heavy snow … Beinn Dubh

Like all of the Luss Hills, it was a very steep haul up to reach the broad connecting ridge that led over a couple of smaller tops to the rounded bulk of Beinn Chaorach.  Yesterday, unlike last Thursday, the air was incredibly clear and the views from this quite lofty little top were very big indeed.   Nita said that she could clearly see Ailsa Craig way down in the Firth of Clyde and even I could see the rugged tops of the Arran Mountains with my monocular.  We had a day of bright sun and dark clouds and it made for some beautiful scenes.  Patches of bright colours and deep shade moved across the landscape, and if it hadn’t been for the very cold wind, it would have been the perfect day for a lengthy stop. March being March however and despite it being officially spring and all that….. winter was still very much around.  Yesterday’s lunch break was therefore a far shorter affair than last weeks. The Beinn Dubh Raven didn’t spot us from the other side of the glen and so we didn’t have to share our sandwiches this time!

Heading for Beinn Chaorach, a steep climb ahead!

Heading for Beinn Chaorach, a steep climb ahead!

One of my pet hates I have to admit is being on a hill and hearing another walker talking into their mobile phone.  I guess I must be turning into one of those grumpy old men ….although Nita will tell you that I got there years ago.  Anyway, in the past, although I always took my phone with me on walks (in case of emergencies) I always kept it turned off.  Yesterday however, I managed to leave it turned on and half way back along the ridge, the phone starts ringing loudly.  Thankfully there were no other walkers around and so, there I stood, with half of southern Scotland stretched out before me, carrying on a conversation with a bloke working at Heathrow Airport!  It felt quite bizarre….I was in my Luss Hills office!

Beinn Chaorach, the Luss Hills

Beinn Chaorach, the Luss Hills

At the summit of Beinn Chaorach

-o-o-o-o-

A tale of two Meall Tionails …..

The view from Ba Bridge

The view from Ba Bridge

For anyone out there who reads these blogs, you might remember that about a year ago I wrote about my plans to walk a wee hill tucked away amidst the bigger mountains of the Blackmount.  The hill in question was Meall Tionail …a rocky little hillock of just over 500m in height.  We’d been planning to walk this hill ever since my partner Anita saw it from one of its bigger neighbours and said that she’d like to sit and eat her sandwiches at the top of it one day ….it really is in a wonderful location, surrounded on three sides by bigger dramatic mountains and looking out on the other side to the expanse of Rannoch Moor.  Suffice to say that we didn’t make it last year as planned and so it had to wait until Monday this week before we finally got to go there.

Looking towards Meall Tionail

Looking towards Meall Tionail

With a pretty good forecast and following a reasonably dry period (the walk in involves crossing several streams) …it seemed the perfect place to go ….and so I rang our friend Guy to see if he wanted to join us.  Wanting to walk a tiny hill in the middle of much bigger ones seemed to be a daft enough proposal to him and he was all for it ….we’d pick him up from the station at half past six the next morning.

Looking east from near the base of Meall Tionail

Looking east from near the base of Meall Tionail

Meall Tionail is as I say, just a small hill …it’s the getting to it that takes the effort.  We chose to park the car at the Glencoe Ski Centre and walk the West Highland Way back south to Ba Bridge, then follow a path up the side of the river for around three miles to the summit of the hill…..I guess in total (though I haven’t made any accurate measurements ..about 13 – 14 miles for the day ….with a few hundred metres of ascent thrown in for good measure.  The weather was indeed, pretty good, the cloud was quite high and all of the bigger tops were clear …the upper slopes white with snow and looking very dramatic.  The sky was a mixture of dark clouds and bright sunshine and it made for some wonderful views and a great range of colours.  Needless to say we did a lot of stopping to look and snap away with our cameras and time went by faster than the miles under our boots.   Thankfully the path up the glen by the river proved a good one with small bridges over the numerous small streams.  At one point though the path appeared to disappear….and we were left scratching our heads and pawing over the maps ….we were confronted by a sizable stream and no sign of the path on the opposite bank.  Nothing for it but to splash our away across ….thankful now for the dry weather over the preceding weeks….and still we couldn’t figure out quite where we were or where we’d gone wrong.  We could see our hill though and on heading towards it and back towards the main river found our path …quite how it had got there was a bit of a mystery!

Lunch, but not at the top!

Lunch, but not at the top!

At around this point we’d been walking for about three hours and we still had a good distance to go to the base of the hill …let alone climb the thing.  As we’d set out at 9.15 am, it was looking like being a late finish…..much to my dismay there were murmurings in the ranks that perhaps we’d only get to the base of the hill.   In all honesty though we were running a little late and when we got to the base of the hill we did in fact decide that that was as far as we could go ….ahhhhhh, after all these years waiting to come here and the long drive and the four hours walk in …and not to get to the top …well, it was a bit galling.  We could have got to the top and back down to the car before it got dark …but we’d have had to have rushed it which was completely against the whole idea of going there in the first place.  Nothing for it but to return some time in the future …and allow more time.

We’d had a great day and seen some wonderful scenery, but I hadn’t realised how disappointed Anita was at not getting to sit and eat her lunch at the summit.  When we finally got home she said, ‘how about going back on Wednesday …the forecast is almost as good?’  I saw from her face that she wasn’t joking …and well, we haven’t done anything as daft as that for a long time …so Wednesday was booked and with an extra early start …up at 03.50, out and away from Irvine at 05.15!  Mad or what?!

Some of the mountains surrounding Meall Tionail

Some of the mountains surrounding Meall Tionail

Heavy skies over Rannoch Moor, wednesday morning

Heavy skies over Rannoch Moor, wednesday morning

This time though the weather wasn’t as good as the forecast had predicted and on reaching Loch Lomond it started to rain and both the Luss Hills and Ben Lomond disappeared into a grey wet slurp.  It continued to rain all the way to the edge of Rannoch Moor where at last we saw a few bursts of sunshine over to the east.  The mountains were all shrouded in mist and it was a very different scene from just 48 hours earlier.  This time Anita and I started walking at 07.50 and with fewer things to photograph and less stops we made good time.  It stayed dry all the way to Ba Bridge but after that the rain came back …and stayed for the next almost eight hours.  The beautiful snow covered and dramatic peaks bursting with colour in the bright spring sunshine of just two days earlier,  had been replaced by an equally beautiful scene of dark brooding hills disappearing up into the cloud.  It was cold and very wet …but we could see our little hill up ahead …its summit well below the cloud base ….one advantage of climbing a wee hill!

Wednesday morning ...poor weather

Wednesday morning ...poor weather

We arrived at the base of Meall Tionail and after a brief stop headed uphill on a mixture of grass and stone, crossing numerous small streams that were coming to life again with all the rain.  By this time the wind had picked up and it was blowing the rain along in sheets, but as we reached the top of the hill, it really didn’t matter …as Anita said, ‘This is even better than I had imagined’ …and indeed it was.  The summit is topped by a series of crags …the outer edge like battlements of an ancient castle …the views out over the glen towards Rannoch Moor quite stunning even in this wild weather.  Big mountains rose all around us, occasionally giving glimpses of the snow covered ridges for the most part hidden in cloud.  Wow, what a spot.  Anita did finally get to eat her sandwiches on the top, albeit hunched against the wind and driving rain ….but what the heck …we’ made it and it felt very special.

 From the summit of Meall Tionail....at last!

From the summit of Meall Tionail....at last!

-=-=-=-=-=-

Back on the hill

'Loch Tulla and Beinn an Dothaidh'

'Loch Tulla and Beinn an Dothaidh'

It had been a few weeks since we last went for a walk and so when we saw the forecast for Sunday ….dry, cold and sunny ….we just had to make the most of it. As I think I said in a blog the other week, we have been planning to revisit Ghlas Beinn, the small hill on the edge of Rannoch Moor …..that we walked back in December 2009. When we were there that year there was no snow at lower levels, just some up on the high tops. It was though, very cold and the peat was frozen as were the moor-land lochs. This time, after a relatively mild week beforehand, it had once again turned cold and we were hoping to find snow even down to low level.

Our first concern though was the state of the roads ….it’s almost a 100 mile drive to the start point on the A82 on Blackmount and after numerous heavy rain and sleet showers on Saturday, the roads were still wet when we went to bed …it seemed likely that everything would be covered in ice in the morning. Strangely though, when I got up at about six o’clock on Sunday morning and stuck my head outside the front door ….there was virtually no frost and the roads were fine. The walk we planned was not a long one, (probably no more than six or seven kilometres) and there was only about 300m of ascent. There was no need for a really early start and after much dawdling around; we finally got away a little after eight. By that time it was well light and the early cloud cover had already broken and the skies were a clear blue ….it looked set to be a really good day.

'The small summit of Ghlas Beinn'

'The small summit of Ghlas Beinn'

I had expected to see snow on the Luss Hills as we drove up the side of Loch Lomond, but they were completely clear. The only snow was up high …above about 800m on Ben Lomond and Ben Vorlich. It was quite mild too …the car thermometer reckons it was 3 C by the side of the loch. What had happened to the real cold that was forecast? As we followed the road past the northern end of Loch Lomond and up Glen Falloch, there was a very noticeable drop in temperature inside the car and by the time we arrived at Crianlarich …it was -1 C outside and there was a covering of snow everywhere ….we’d gone from spring back into winter a just a matter of five or six miles! Everywhere looked beautiful and it looked like we were going to have a good walk.

We reached our start point, at about 10.30 after a short stop at the Green Welly in Tyndrum en route and there were a good number of cars stopped and people were admiring the stunning view out over Loch Tulla. This is a very popular view point and most of the time there is a mobile tea and burger bar parked here ….and someone playing the bag pipes. No such thing on Sunday …I guess mid February is pushing it a bit …though from the look of it, they could have done a good bit of business even so. By this time a fair amount of cloud had bubbled up but it made for much more interesting colours. We simply crossed the road a short distance to the north of the lay-by and headed up the grassy slopes. As at Crianlarich, there was a slight covering of snow everywhere and with the temperature still below or around freezing, it made that wonderful ‘crump’ sound as you walked on it. A short distance from the edge of the road you are blocked by a fence …not marked on the map. Thankfully at a point where it takes a slight bend, there is a small post driven into the ground ….allowing you to step over the wire without risking damaging it.

'A walk in the wild!'

'A walk in the wild!'

The views of course were stunning from the outset especially as some of the bigger hills were illuminated by bright sun. After gaining a few hundred feet in ascent it becomes obvious that you are on a long broad grass and heather ridge ….ahead were a series of small tops …each one slightly higher than the next. On gaining the first of these the views become even bigger and the ground on the west side drops more steeply. We stopped on one of these first knolls and just sat down to enjoy these amazing surroundings …and of course a cup of coffee. One of the reasons for coming back to this place was the hope that I’d be able to develop new paintings from the experience. With the light snow cover everything looked very different from when we were last up there ….and with the constantly moving clouds, the patchwork of light and shade and the corresponding colours ….the scene around us changed from minute to minute. There was a stiff breeze blowing and it was too cold to draw, but I took numerous photos trying to capture some of these colours and patterns.

The ridge becomes more of a gentle switch back until after a couple of kilometres, the final and highest knoll ….the summit of Ghlas Beinn, is reached. For a place where there are no paths, this little top has a good sized and well made cairn ….and so it should. From its very modest summit (something a little over 500 m) the views are quite superb….three hundred and sixty degrees of stunning wild beauty. You look down over vast areas of moor land and loch, but are also surrounded by the higher snow topped mountains. Of course, we didn’t see anyone the whole time we were walking. Nita spotted a large herd of deer grazing below and to the east of us….but nothing else. To the immediate west though we could hear the drone of traffic from the A82 as it crosses the edge of Rannoch Moor heading for Glen Coe …but this was the only slight blot on this idyllic scene. Despite starting late, we had plenty of time and so carried on a short distance beyond the summit ….down past two small wild lochs and on to a final rocky knoll overlooking the expanse of the moor ….what a wonderful place to stand …and all this within a few hours of Irvine.

Back to Ben Chonzie

Ben Chonzie, near the start of the walk

Ben Chonzie, near the start of the walk

If you walk the hills regularly, you reach a point at some time where you find you’ve walked many of the main tops that lie within a day trip distance of your home.  This really isn’t a problem though as you can always walk them again, and again and again! If there’s one thing you can absolutely guarantee on, it’s that they’ll always look different.  As anyone who reads this blog will know, we regularly go back to hills we like, especially those that are close …the Luss Hills, the Arrochar Alps, the Arran Hills etc.  On Sunday last, we revisited another of our favourite haunts ….Ben Chonzie, the large lump of a hill that rises above Loch Turret.  It is not a dramatic hill but is well set back from the main roads and so tends to be quiet.  It is the highest point in what is a very large expanse of wild, rough upland country.  In the past we’ve normally approached the hill from the Loch Turret….parking the car at the end of the road near the dam.  To reach the summit of Ben Chonzie from here makes quite a long day but there is plenty of fine walking to be had on the lower hills around.

Ben Chonzie, the fine start already fading

Ben Chonzie, the fine start already fading

The other usual (and shorter) approach is from the south west of the summit.  A four wheel drive track leads from a small car park on a single track road, high onto the hill.  This can be followed to its end and then up onto the main back of the hill a short distance from the summit.  We’d gone this way just once before, on a dark, damp and very windy day a few winters ago.  It really was quite a grim day and we saw nothing of the views as the cloud was very low the whole time.  When we got out onto the upper slopes the wind was really starting to pick up and as we followed the line of the old fence up towards the summit it appeared to be getting stronger by the minute.  There seemed little point in continuing to the top (we’d all been there on a fine day a year or so earlier) and so we headed through the mists towards the steep slopes below the summit and the shelter they offered from the increasingly strong winds.  I remember we stamped seats into the large patch of melting snow we found there, and sat down to ‘enjoy’ our lunch.  By the time we’d finished and were making our way down, the wind had become exceedingly strong and it was hard to walk and for a while it was decidedly unpleasant.

Ben Chonzie, looking towards the summit

Ben Chonzie, looking towards the summit

So then, on Sunday we decided it was time to revisit this side of the hill and try and see it under better conditions.  The forecast was certainly hopeful and indeed we arrived at the wee car park at the start of the path in bright sunshine and there was frost on everything around.  We’d seen nothing of our surroundings last time we were here and so it was great to see the hills all around us this time …it really is a beautiful and quiet location.  Several other people had had the same idea as us and there were a couple of cars already parked and a couple more arrived as we were getting the boots on.  We enjoyed the fine weather for about an hour and a half I guess but as we gained height the blue skies turned gradually to grey and then the grey descended onto the tops and the summit of Ben Chonzie disappeared.  As we emerged once again onto the back of the hill, we felt the wind, not strong this time but very cold.  The ground was covered in frost and there were frozen pools and patches of icy snow all around.  The final rise to the summit came and went in the grey mist and we once again decided that we wouldn’t bother with the top but would instead walk over towards the lunch spot on our previous visit.

Ben Chonzie

Ben Chonzie

We got some interesting views of the big snow patches lying on the steep slopes and Nita spotted several mountain hares …resplendent in their white winter coats.  After this, we made a hasty retreat, back down the way we’d come.  In the end then, we still didn’t get the fine views from the top that we’d hoped for but we did see enough in the morning to want to come back once again.  There was a fantastic line of smaller hills just to the west that will have to be visited at some point in the future and this could well be a good place to do some sketching on a slightly warmer, clearer day.

At last!

Beinn Eich from Beinn Dubh

Beinn Eich from Beinn Dubh

Back at the start of October, week took some friends for a walk up Beinn Dubh in the Luss Hills above the southern end of Loch Lomond.  If you read the blog that week, you’ll remember that we had a wet and very windy day on the hill …not at all the best way to see or experience it.

Since that day we’ve been so busy that we haven’t managed to get back out into the hills.  When we did have odd days when neither of us were busy …….the weather did its very worse ….there seems to have been just one great Atlantic front after another blasting its way through the west of Scotland recently.  So, needless to say, I’m not at all fit once again!  It’s amazing just how quickly you lose fitness ….especially once you’re over 50!

Wind blown snow, Beinn Dubh

Wind blown snow, Beinn Dubh

With Thursday and Friday this week being taken up with work, we kept looking at the weather forecasts, expecting the inevitable weather system to come splurging its way in from the west and ruining this fine cold snap.  But no, things seemed quite settled for today, (Saturday) and so we decided  to get ourselves out on a hill …and of course, catch a bit of snow.

On Beinn Dubh

On Beinn Dubh

Irvine, being right by the sea, tends to stay a degree or two warmer than inland and so we’ve missed the snow that other parts of Scotland have been getting recently…..it’s just been very wet here …very wet indeed.  In fact, everywhere is awash with water and what we just didn’t need last night was a good hard frost.  Guess what?!  We got up this morning to find everything covered in ice!  We had to put the spiders (little instep crampons) on, just to get from the front door to the car.  The little road outside the house was like a skating rink …not great when you have 40 odd miles to drive. Just hoped the main roads would be better.

With the prospect of bad roads we’d decided to head back to Beinn Dubh as it’s all on main roads and as I say, not to far.  We got away at about aquarter to nine (later than we’d planned) and thankfully found the main roads pretty reasonable.  A few miles inland, the fields were covered in snow and it stayed like this all the way to Balloch at the southern end of Loch Lomond.  Beyond there, it fizzled out, at least at low levels and by the time we could see Beinn Dubh, the snow level was probably about 250m!  Quite amazing but it made for a good mix of colours in the bright sun.  Luss, like Irvine, was well iced up and you could have had an ice hockey game on the main car park!  Back on with the spiders!

Towards Ben Lomond

Towards Ben Lomond

As I’ve said about this hill in the past, you get good views all the way and this morning was no exception.  All the hills around were caked in snow at higher levels and with the bright blue sky and the green and brown coloured lower slopes, it looked stunning.  It was a good job it did, for my legs were complaining about this sudden bit of activity …I think they thought they’d been retired!  No such luck chaps ….with this government in you’ll be working even longer!  This did of course mean that we took plenty of stops to look and snap photos.  Across the loch to the NE, Ben Lomond looked beautiful under the snow, as did all the smaller Luss Hills.  In fact, with the snow, deep shadows and bright sun, you had to make yourself remember these were only 650m …they looked much bigger under these conditions.  When we reached the snow it was soft and fluffy, marked by patterns blown into the surface by the strong winds.  Higher up, at around 550m, it became very cold as we lost the shelter of the hills and walked into the brisk north westerly wind.  It didn’t matter though, we just added a few more layers and carried on snapping photos and ooooohing and ahhhhing at this amazing country.  At last, we were back on the hill.

Beinn Dubh

Beinn Dubh

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Back out again …at last!

Luss hills

Luss hills, June 2011

It’s been a few weeks since we were out on the hills and I been getting withdrawal symptoms! It’s certainly been a very busy few weeks what with one thing and another and there’s been a lot of bad weather in these parts too.

Anyway, yesterday finally arrived along with its promised better weather and as Nita wasn’t working and I didn’t need to be down the studio, we grabbed it with both hands. In the past when we’d visited the Luss Hills we’d always just gone and walked the fine little circuit of Beinn Dubh and Mid Hill. There are of course a good number of other hills in this area although they tend to be slightly longer days.

 

Luss hills

Luss hills, June 2011

Yesterday then, we decided to do a walk over Beinn Each and Beinn Lochain to Doune Hill ….and then instead of descending into the glen for a long and no doubt rather damp and midge infested walk back …we simply returned the same way.

It’s about an hour long walk to the base of the first hill but this is along a very pleasant single track road up Glen Luss. The grassy hills rise steeply on both sides but the base of the glen has many trees …lots of them oak I think and it makes for an enjoyable walk in and out. As you get towards the end of the public road you get good views of Beinn Each and the route beyond …and you start to think it’s going to be quite a long day!

 

Luss hills June 2011

Luss hills, June 2011

Thankfully the forecast was correct and the sky was a patchwork of bright blue areas of sky between dark and at times threatening clouds. This created a fantastic constantly changing pattern of light, shade and colour that looked absolutely beautiful. Just beyond the end of the road a sign post points over a stile indicating the route to Beinn Each. It’s a fine broad ridge of mainly grass with the occasional boulders and small crags but at this time of year there’s plenty to look at by your feet – numerous tiny yellow and white flowers and on the lower slopes, white / purple orchids of some type. I’m not a botanist so don’t ask me what any of them were exactly..but they looked great and certainly took my mind of the fact that my legs were complaining as we plodded up the ridge to the summit at just over 700m.

The summit of Beinn Each is marked with a small cairn of white or light grey stones. It stands out fine against the turf and close by are several mini, mini lochs ..no more than a couple of feet across, each one reflecting the sky above. Beyond this is a proper ridge …not narrow but narrow enough to feel the ground dropping away on both sides and making you feel like you’re on the top of the world …it was wonderful. After a couple of hundred metres though it broadens again before descending around 160 m to a wide beallach, grass covered and dissected with a fine pattern of peat hags. There were also a couple of fine crags, more like mini escarpments, two or three metres high and perhaps thirty metres long. These though weren’t cutting across the width of the hill but instead followed the length of the ridge – rather like the spine of the mountain poking through the peat.

Beyond the almost inconspicuous top of Beinn Lochain there was another slight descent before a final steep little rise to the summit of Doune Hill. It’s quite a spot, far enough away from the A82 with its constant drone of traffic, that as we sat there we could hear no man made sounds what so ever …just the noise of the wind in the grass, an occasional bee or other insect and the regular song of Skylarks. Just what was needed after the busy couple of weeks I’d just had. Bliss in fact! And then of course we had to do it all over again to get back to the car …except that this time the sun had moved and the views all looked different. It’s a wonderful thing the landscape.

Ben Lomond

photo Ben Lomond

Ben Lomond

It really doesn’t matter that this is one of the most popular hills in Scotland and that thousands of people make their way to its summit each year; it really is a very fine hill.

We had arranged to meet up with a couple of friends who were staying in one of the lodges at the side of Loch Lomond at Rowardennan.  We arrived at nine o’clock on a beautiful spring morning to find a ‘second’ breakfast of coffee and croissants waiting for us.  The loch was like a mirror and Ben Lomond and the Ptarmigan rose steeply behind, the higher slopes speckled with patches of snow….the remnants of the heavy snow we’d struggled through on Beinn Damhain a few miles to the north west just ten days previously.  From the shore though it was difficult to tell quite how much snow there might be on the steeper upper sections of the Ptarmigan ridge.  We decided to head up to the top of the Ptarmigan and then if the steeper section leading up to Ben Lomond looked clear, head on up, descending by the larger and easy angled ‘tourist’ path.

Ben Lomond, walkers approaching the summit

Ben Lomond, walkers approaching the summit

This really is a great route.  The path up the Ptarmigan starts amidst the oak woodland that skirts the loch-side and then winds its way steeply upwards giving fine views out over the loch.  These views get bigger every time you stop for a breather and on this calm morning the Luss hills on the opposite side of the loch were beautifully reflected in the water.

Despite the beautiful weather we saw very few people, one couple passed us on their way up and three or four more came down past us, but it’s hard to believe that Glasgow is just a forty minute drive from here.  We came across the first of the snow patches near the top of the Ptarmigan and it was deep and slushy and slippery but as far as we could see (well…Anita and my two friends could see that is) …there were only a few patches on the steep ground ahead ….and these could be avoided.  The final clamber up the ridge to the summit of Ben Lomond is wonderful.  The views become vast.   The final little section involves using your hands to clamber through and up a short rocky section that ends quite suddenly, a few metres from the summit trig point.

Ben Lomond, on the Ptarmigan ridge

Ben Lomond, on the Ptarmigan ridge

 

Ben Lomond, near the summit

Ben Lomond, near the summit

We’ve done this route a good few times over the last ten years and never before have we found the top so quiet and so calm.  There was hardly a breath of wind and we could sit around taking in the spectacular views without feeling cold.  It was a perfect day and one that has left me looking forward to our trip to Assynt in a few weeks time.

Beinn Dubh ….or bust!

Near the starting point for Beinn Dubh

Near the starting point for Beinn Dubh

I had a wonderful time in Germany and the scenery around Speyer and the Pfalz was beautiful …the colours especially fine. But ……if there was one thing I missed (apart from my partner Anita of course) …it was the Scottish hills. When we got back to Irvine I was so busy that I couldn’t get out immediately. I’ve six paintings to complete for an exhibition at the Scotlandart.com gallery in Edinburgh at the end of October …so much to do.

I just had to get out though and so we decided that we’d go walking on Saturday. But you know what it’s like – you plan a walk and then the weather forecast is bad. The Friday of course was beautiful but Saturday looked like being grim indeed….very low cloud …albeit rising to between 300 and 500m as the day progressed, and patchy rain and drizzle. Not really a day for views and colours!

The first views of Loch Lomond

The first views of Loch Lomond

But of course, we just had to go. I’m really not very fit after almost five months without much in the way of steep ground and so we decided to head to the Luss hills ….a favourite short walk when we want to get the legs going again. It’s steep enough to know you’re on a hill and wild enough too …and if the weather is good …some great views….not that we expected to see them. This was going to be a chance to hone the navigation skills a little we thought.

We’re lucky living in Ayrshire as it’s only about an hours drive to the start of the Highlands and the southern end of Loch Lomond so we didn’t set out too early and arrived at Luss just after 11am. Amazingly, although there was thick low cloud and driving rain over some of the North Ayrshire hills, by the time we were north of the Clyde the cloud level had risen to around 800m and there were definite breaks with bits of blue sky. It was beautiful and as we followed the path up Beinn Dubh things improved further with patches of bright sun bringing out the early autumn colours and making it feel really quite warm. You quickly gain height and the views out over the southern end of Loch Lomond open out with every step…..giving you a great excuse when your legs are aching to stop and ‘admire the view’ ….which we did on a regular basis! By the time we were near the top even Ben Lomond was clearing spasmodically.

North from near Mid Hill

North from near Mid Hill

One of the things I love about the Scottish hills is just how quiet most of them are. Even on this beautiful Saturday, we only saw two other couples walking …hardly a crowd. It was so peaceful, just the sound of the breeze in the grass and the occasional bird. From the summit of Beinn Dubh the route follows around in a small horse shoe, dipping slightly to give great views down into Glen Douglas before rising again as the broad grassy ridge curves round to Mid Hill. The views NW towards the Arrochar hills are particularly good from here and on Saturday, particularly so with most of them in deep shadow by this time, illuminated occasionally by bright patches of sunlight. It looked fantastic as we started the steep descent into the glen and the wee road back to the start point. We ended our day with a celebratory ice cream back in Luss ….what a great little day!