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Lochnagar

The NE facing corrie of Lochnagar

The NE facing corrie of Lochnagar

When I visited the John Muir Trust centre in Pitlochry earlier this year to discuss my exhibition there in May / June 2015, I was asked whether I might include some paintings of that region. In the past I’d walked and created paintings of Ben Vrackie, Beinn a’ Ghlo and the Drumochter Hills but I’d always fancied heading a little further east and north to explore beyond Glen Shee. If ever I needed one, this seemed the perfect excuse to do some walking around Lochnagar and the White Mounth ….with the hope that I would get some interesting ideas for paintings.

Enjoying a day on the hill

Enjoying a day on the hill

The main reason we’d not been to this area before is that it is just a little too far away from Irvine. We would need to stay over night somewhere in order to walk any of the hills here. When we were a little younger and sprightlier, Nita and I would take my old light weight Saunders tent and camp and walk ….but we gave that up a good few years ago. Indeed, the last such outing was back in 1999 not long after we’d moved to Scotland and we spent a few days out on the Isle of Jura and after that the wee tent was put into retirement!

Lochnagar

Lochnagar

Now, fifteen years later, we decided the best way for us to get walking in these more distant regions of Scotland, was to get ourselves another small tent …..and hope we were still agile enough to get in and out of it! Several weeks ago we went up to the large Tiso in Glasgow and bought ourselves a small light weight Vango tent…..and on Sunday afternoon did the drive up to Ballater and pitched it for the first time. It’s a great little tent and most importantly for me, very easy to pitch. We’d chosen the easy option for the first outing and had booked a couple of nights at the Ballater caravan and camping site…..and it proved a very good choice.

The summit of Lochnagar

The summit of Lochnagar

Although quite busy it was also quiet and had excellent facilities including a washroom, toilet and shower for disabled visitors. This might sound daft as my sole reason for being there was to try and get to the summit of Lochnagar, but when you’re visually impaired it’s often the simpler things that cause problems …like finding your way around public conveniences, camp site shower blocks etc. Suffice to say, I used the disabled facilities and it made my stay there so much easier. …. I would strongly recommend this site.

At the summit of Lochnagar

At the summit of Lochnagar

Anyway, on to the walk itself. We’d got up first thing and driven the 10 miles to the start point in Glen Muick where there is a good car park, toilets and the Balmoral Estate Visitor Centre. We arrived just before 08.00 and eating a quick breakfast headed off up the main path. Low cloud shrouded the hills and although it had been raining when we first arrived, this had stopped by the time we were walking and we were pleased to see the clouds rising and breaking as we gained height. The path led up to the beallach between the main bulk of Lochnagar and Meikle Pap and this overlooks the great NE facing corrie of Lochnagar. As we reached this point the cloud finally lifted off of the summit and a bright patch of sunshine lit up half of the corrie. This really is a fine view point with the huge cliffs dropping into the corrie and its beautiful small dark loch. We stood for a good time just taking the scene in…..and thinking of potential paintings. The rocks seemed to drop in vertical bands with several big gullies obvious and lower down there were several large chevron shaped patches of snow…..what a great hill ….what a great mountain.

Retreating ....and wet!

Retreating ….and wet!

From this point, the path led up steeply through boulders of all sizes and shapes. Being a very popular hill, the path makers had been busy and done an excellent job of creating a winding staircase up onto the plateau at around 1070 m. From this point on it was just a pleasant walk around the rim of the corrie to the summit at 1155m. The views didn’t last all the time as clouds rolled in on a couple of occasions, but thankfully lifted again as we approached the small cone of crags that marks the summit ….and we arrived in bright warm sunshine. The views were even bigger from here and mile after mile of Scotland lay all around us, a wonderful patchwork of colour, line and texture.

Rain and cloud clearing from Meikle Pap, evening

Rain and cloud clearing from Meikle Pap, evening

Not really fancying the descent back through the steep boulders, we decided to follow another path down, although this led eventually to a steep section by the side of waterfalls and when we reached this I decided it was going to be very difficult for me to get down safely ….especially as by this time it had become very dark and was raining heavily. We retraced our steps a half kilometre to where another path led back around the side of the hill and eventually back to our outward route ….but avoiding the steep boulders! This did add an hour or so onto our walk but when you can’t see too much it’s better to adapt your route and take a little longer than to risk having an accident. As it turned out, we got some great views later as the rain and low cloud once again broke and lifted off of the higher ground. The one big problem though, was that we got back to Ballater too late for a pub meal ….and had to make do with a couple of pints of ‘Trade Winds’ and a packet of crisps for our evening meal…..what a hardship! What a day!

Art on the Hill

'Art on the Hill'

‘Art on the Hill’

Just a very short blog today as I’ve been very busy this week and am running late as usual!

I thought I’d use this space to plug the ‘Art on the Hill‘ exhibition which runs until 31st May and is open daily from 12 noon until 10pm. Artist and exhibition organiser Peter Gillies kindly invited me to take part in this big exhibition that includes work by around 80 artists and makers.

The exhibition is in the upper level of the Church on the Hill in Battlefield, Queens Park, Glasgow. This is a really magnificent building and the space is just huge ….it really is very impressive.

‘Art on the Hill’ is part of the Southside Fringe Festival, so do check out what else is going on throughout the month.

Full details:

www.glasgowartfairscotland.co.uk

I have three of my paintings in the exhibition…..hope you can get to see the show.

'Art on the Hill'

‘Art on the Hill’

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‘Central Station, Glasgow’

'Central Station, Glasgow', Pastel, 2003

‘Central Station, Glasgow’

‘Central Station, Glasgow’, Pastel, 2003

If you follow this page regularly you’ll have seen this drawing several times, but even though I did it 10 years ago now, I still like it.  The original drawing is now on permanent display at the Royal National Institute for the Blind’s centre in Edinburgh.  It’s quite a large piece measuring I think about 140 cm x 80 cm and is based on Glasgow’s wonderfully impressive Central Station.  I catch the train to Irvine from here quite regularly and on a winter morning when the sun is shining through the glass roof it can be a confusing place for me with the bright light and deep shadows and silhouettes.

Anyway, this being almost Christmas and that, I thought I’d show this piece again as it now available as a high quality reproduction …..could make the perfect present for someone who loves Glasgow and its fabulous station.  Go to the ‘Buy Prints’ section at the top of this page and follow the link direct to the printer’s website.

A long day

Kinloch Rannoch

Kinloch Rannoch

It’s a great time of year. The day light is lasting longer every week and it makes for longer days on the hills. On Monday, with another settled forecast …at least for the central and eastern parts of Scotland, we decided to drive up to Kinloch Rannoch at the eastern end of Loch Rannoch. Just to the north east of the village is Beinn a’ Chuallaich and it was this hill that we aimed to walk. Nita and I had been here before three or four years ago and had found a very pleasant circuit to walk taking in the hills fairly prominent south ridge and then returning by a slightly meandering route over high featureless grass and heather ridges. I remembered the ground being fairly tame …at least not too rugged underfoot and so once again thought that this might be the ideal next step for our friend Guy (he of the recovering leg). We gave him a shout on Saturday and he was more than keen to join us again.

It’s quite a long drive from North Ayrshire up to Kinloch Rannoch and we guessed it would probably take us about three hours. A relatively early start was needed and we arranged to meet Guy at 06.30 ….not quite as sedate as the previous week. As the route involves taking the motorways through Glasgow and then up the A9 ….it kind of means that whatever time you set out in the morning …you’re almost certain to get caught in rush hour traffic at some point ….and sure enough, we did….first on heading north out of Glasgow and then on arriving at Perth, where we were stuck in a 25 minute long jam. Further delays north of Dunkeld and a delay of our own making in Pitlochry (we couldn’t find the public toilets!), meant that the three hour journey was being extended somewhat! From Pitlochry to Kinloch Rannoch is a beautiful drive west on small roads for just under 20 miles …..and on getting to within about six miles of our start point …the road was closed …aaaahhh! An eight mile detour followed by another set of road works and traffic lights had us arriving at our start at 10.30 …an hour later than planned….and we were all exhausted before we even started!

Kinloch Rannoch

Kinloch Rannoch

As I said before, our planned route was a rather circuitous one, not the way suggested in the Corbett’s Guide. On our last visit we’d found a small path, unmarked on our map, that wandered up the steep hillside from near the road and onto the southern flanks of the hill. We aimed to find this path again but after walking the few hundred metres from the car, everything looked a little different from how I’d remembered it …it must be an age thing! In my defence though, the landowner had been doing some work with a small JCB and a new fence (thankfully with an opening gate) had been erected since we were last here. Looking up the hillside beyond the gate, Nita and Guy could make out a wee path higher up and we decided that that must be the one. I wasn’t totally convinced at first but it was leading uphill so that was a good start. Higher up and I started to recognise things again and once above the small areas of forestry and onto the open hillside, well, it didn’t really matter ….and the path decided the same thing and gradually faded away into the heather.

From this point we made our way in an easterly direction aiming for the lower end of the south ridge of the hill. The views at this stage were already impressive, especially out across the glen to Schiehallion, the big Munro that seems to dominate the skyline from almost everywhere. Sadly however, despite the forecast giving a 70 per cent chance of a cloud free Munro ….the cloud here was heavy and at times quite low….down to about 800 m….all the higher tops were cut off by a straight dark line of cloud. There were occasional breaks in the cloud and the sun did appear briefly now and then, but it wasn’t really a day for interesting photos. Even our hill, at around 890 m had its head shrouded and so we stopped for lunch just below the cloud and enjoyed the views we did have.

Now then, Beinn a’ Chuallaich is a fine hill, but not perhaps fine enough to deserve the huge cairn that marks it’s summit. There must be some reason for the monster cairn …it must be eight or even nine feet high ….certainly it makes anyone standing beside it look ridiculously small! As we arrived at the summit the cloud thinned just enough for a very weak glimpse of the sun above …but no views I’m afraid …so nothing for it, just check the maps, set the compass and carry on. We didn’t have to descend too far before we were once again in clear air, now heading across a wide flat barren ridge. There were a few large snow patches on its flanks that we all but avoided but after that it was fairly easy walking. The cloud by this time was starting to rise and the views around were becoming more impressive….we could see a long way west out over Loch Rannoch and Rannoch Moor. It was great being out in this big expanse of empty hill country with no one else around but by this time I was starting to become just a little concerned about the time. We weren’t moving fast and I knew from our previous visit that we still had a long walk back …ending in a steep path descending through woods to the village. After another stop to take photos I decided I’d better air my thoughts on the subject ….don’t panic but we may not get off this hill before it gets dark …we need to speed up a bit! It’s all to easy to enjoy your surroundings and forget that the time is going by. This did the trick and Guy headed off at a brisk pace. This allowed Nita to concentrate on guiding me at this new quick pace. With the heavy cloud cover the light was fading quite quickly as we headed down the hill but as we reached the path leading down through the trees, there was still some light in the sky. I had wondered whether I should get the head torch out but thought that this might make matters worse, so carried on listening for Nita’s instructions and feeling my way carefully down the path. The last twenty minutes was difficult …I could see virtually nothing but we suddenly bobbed out of the trees and were at the edge of the village ….wow …cutting it fine or what?! I thought I’d done really well but then walked into the back of Nita who’d stopped …perhaps not so good after all! It had been a great day, a proper hill walk..now all we had to do was get back to North Ayrshire. After dropping Guy off at his house in Troon, we got back to Irvine at about 11.30pm ….as I said at the start …a long day.

Ben Lomond

photo Ben Lomond

Ben Lomond

It really doesn’t matter that this is one of the most popular hills in Scotland and that thousands of people make their way to its summit each year; it really is a very fine hill.

We had arranged to meet up with a couple of friends who were staying in one of the lodges at the side of Loch Lomond at Rowardennan.  We arrived at nine o’clock on a beautiful spring morning to find a ‘second’ breakfast of coffee and croissants waiting for us.  The loch was like a mirror and Ben Lomond and the Ptarmigan rose steeply behind, the higher slopes speckled with patches of snow….the remnants of the heavy snow we’d struggled through on Beinn Damhain a few miles to the north west just ten days previously.  From the shore though it was difficult to tell quite how much snow there might be on the steeper upper sections of the Ptarmigan ridge.  We decided to head up to the top of the Ptarmigan and then if the steeper section leading up to Ben Lomond looked clear, head on up, descending by the larger and easy angled ‘tourist’ path.

Ben Lomond, walkers approaching the summit

Ben Lomond, walkers approaching the summit

This really is a great route.  The path up the Ptarmigan starts amidst the oak woodland that skirts the loch-side and then winds its way steeply upwards giving fine views out over the loch.  These views get bigger every time you stop for a breather and on this calm morning the Luss hills on the opposite side of the loch were beautifully reflected in the water.

Despite the beautiful weather we saw very few people, one couple passed us on their way up and three or four more came down past us, but it’s hard to believe that Glasgow is just a forty minute drive from here.  We came across the first of the snow patches near the top of the Ptarmigan and it was deep and slushy and slippery but as far as we could see (well…Anita and my two friends could see that is) …there were only a few patches on the steep ground ahead ….and these could be avoided.  The final clamber up the ridge to the summit of Ben Lomond is wonderful.  The views become vast.   The final little section involves using your hands to clamber through and up a short rocky section that ends quite suddenly, a few metres from the summit trig point.

Ben Lomond, on the Ptarmigan ridge

Ben Lomond, on the Ptarmigan ridge

 

Ben Lomond, near the summit

Ben Lomond, near the summit

We’ve done this route a good few times over the last ten years and never before have we found the top so quiet and so calm.  There was hardly a breath of wind and we could sit around taking in the spectacular views without feeling cold.  It was a perfect day and one that has left me looking forward to our trip to Assynt in a few weeks time.

‘Glasgow scene 1’

'Glasgow Scene 1'

‘Glasgow scene 1’, Acrylic & Pastel

As you know, most of my paintings are about the natural environment and in particular the upland landscape of Scotland.  I do though, occasionally work on paintings about the man made landscape and this little painting is one of two I did for a customer a few years ago.  It is based on the view from the train as it approaches the bridge over the Clyde and Central Station.  Even since I did this painting this scene has changed somewhat and several of the buildings have been cleared.  It did appear to be a somewhat run-down little area but that is what I liked.

After returning from Speyer last summer where I did a number of paintings based on the cathedral there, I’ve been thinking of doing a few pieces based on the buildings of Glasgow…..a little bit of the urban landscape for a change.

A quick trip to Crieff


'Above the Rest and Be Thankful'

'Above the Rest and Be Thankful'

A couple of weeks ago The Strathearn Gallery in Crieff took six of my paintings with them down to the Battersea Park Affordable Art Fair. They sold two of the paintings and so on Thursday we drove up to Perthshire to collect the unsold pieces and deliver two small pieces (shown here) for their forthcoming Christmas exhibition.

I’m sure I needn’t remind you but the weather that day was pretty vile. The thought of lugging several big paintings from the gallery to the car park a hundred or so metres away, in heavy rain and gale force winds was not a good one, but as Anita was working Friday and Saturday and the gallery was closed on the Sunday, we didn’t have much choice.

'On Quinag, May'

'On Quinag, May'

It didn’t look to promising as we set out from Irvine in the morning. There were dark threatening clouds to the east and we thought the worst. ….but as we approached Glasgow the sun came out (who said it was rainy in the west?!) and we seemed to follow the bright blue patches in the sky all the way to Crieff. It made for a lovely journey, especially once past Stirling and into the Perthshire countryside. The trees looked great in the bright sun and the colours were really intense. As we approached Crieff though there was really dark heavy cloud sitting on the hills behind the town ….where we’d been walking only a few weeks before ….and it didn’t seem likely that the sun would last that much longer.

It remained long enough though, to get the paintings down the street and into the car without getting a soaking and we were soon heading off back in the direction of the A9 and Glasgow. I had broached the subject of driving back via Crianlarich …the scenic route, but Nita said it was going to rain and we wouldn’t see anything …and she got it right. We’d not got more than a couple of kilometres out of Crieff when the rain started …and it quickly turned into a deluge. It was horrible ….really wet and very dark …I couldn’t see a thing ….good job they don’t let me drive ey?! Well, it remained like this all the way back to Glasgow but by the time we were getting into Ayrshire there was a bit of sun appearing again and we were able to unload the paintings from the car into my studio in the dry ….quite amazing.

Anyway, The Strathearn Gallery Christmas Exhibition opens on Saturday 20th November 2010 with a private view from 11am – 3 pm.

Exhibition opening hours Monday – Saturday 10 am – 5pm, Sunday 1pm – 5pm

January 2011 opening hours: Thursday – Sunday, 12 noon – 5pm

There are works by many artists in the exhibition so it should make for a great show.

A Question of Scale

Eaglesham Moor Wind Farm - Near GlasgowUntil around 1990 my sight was very good.  Then as it deteriorated I found that I had to interpret what I saw in a completely different way.  This has taken quite a lot of adjustment over many years and now after a lengthy period of fairly stable vision, I move around with surprising ease, particularly in places that are familiar to me.

One of the big problems is judging  the scale of things. When I’m in a man made environment this isn’t such a big deal.  Even if I can’t see a car or a building with any clarity, I know that a fuzzy blob at the side of a road is almost certainly a vehicle; whilst a smaller one moving on the pavement is likely to be a person.  One can make fairly sound assumptions of what something is and what size it is, even when it is very unclear.  When I’m out on a hill however, things are much more complicated.  In a completely natural environment judging scale is a real difficulty.  One might be able to see a large feature showing against the grass or heather …and quite reasonably be able to interpret that as a rocky outcrop ….but of course there’s nothing to say what size it is.  On many occasions I’ve seen rocks ahead of me that I’ve judged as being a certain size …say 3 – 4 metres high and about 10 metres distance …only to find it’s a 30 – 40 metre crag at 100 metres distance.  It’s quite a strange feeling and it makes it very difficult when trying to navigate.

As for the paintings though, it makes it quite interesting.  A lot of the works I do have a similar ambiguity which mimics the way I experience the natural landscape.

Last week however I had quite a strange experience whilst we were out walking locally.  A friend had suggested that for a change we drive the few miles to the Eaglesham moors, where a few years ago was built Europe’s largest wind farm.  I’m not sure of the exact statistics but it covers something in the region of 50 square kilometers and contains around 140 turbines.  I have to admit that I was a bit sceptical but agreed that it’d be interesting and different and off we went.

Landscape photo of Eaglesham Moor wind farm.It was an amazing day.  The moors themselves are quite beautiful, wild and generally feature-less but in places with expansive views out towards the Glasgow conurbation.  It was a stunning day weather wise too, with bright sunshine and large roving rain showers, producing amazing colours and contrasts.  The most mind blowing bit though was the turbines.  Man made as they were; set in this bleak landscape, I found it almost impossible to assess their size, and the distance between each of them.  They were in fact, huge,  each one of them around 55m high and each one with three colossal 45m blades.  With my sight so limited I could only see the nearest of the turbines and so as we walked through this massive moor land site, the views were almost always the same to me.  It reminded me of what they say about the universe ..it looks the same from where ever you are.

I have not really painted any man made structures for quite a few years, but this place started to get me thinking.  I’m tempted to do some drawings and paintings that try and put over something of this amazing mixture of moor land and modern technology….though quite how I’ll do it is another question.  Anyway, time enough for that.

Wind Farm on Eaglesham Moor - Scotland

One final strange thing though was that while the wind turbines looked incredibly graceful when we were out walking amongst them, (each one turning in the breeze), when I got back and looked at the photos I’d snapped, ….in this static state the structures looked much more awkward, and rather out of proportion …the movement gave them their beauty it seems.