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Inspiring Mountain Walks | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings - Part 10

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Back to Ben Chonzie

Posted by admin on January 19th, 2012
Ben Chonzie, near the start of the walk

Ben Chonzie, near the start of the walk

If you walk the hills regularly, you reach a point at some time where you find you’ve walked many of the main tops that lie within a day trip distance of your home.  This really isn’t a problem though as you can always walk them again, and again and again! If there’s one thing you can absolutely guarantee on, it’s that they’ll always look different.  As anyone who reads this blog will know, we regularly go back to hills we like, especially those that are close …the Luss Hills, the Arrochar Alps, the Arran Hills etc.  On Sunday last, we revisited another of our favourite haunts ….Ben Chonzie, the large lump of a hill that rises above Loch Turret.  It is not a dramatic hill but is well set back from the main roads and so tends to be quiet.  It is the highest point in what is a very large expanse of wild, rough upland country.  In the past we’ve normally approached the hill from the Loch Turret….parking the car at the end of the road near the dam.  To reach the summit of Ben Chonzie from here makes quite a long day but there is plenty of fine walking to be had on the lower hills around.

Ben Chonzie, the fine start already fading

Ben Chonzie, the fine start already fading

The other usual (and shorter) approach is from the south west of the summit.  A four wheel drive track leads from a small car park on a single track road, high onto the hill.  This can be followed to its end and then up onto the main back of the hill a short distance from the summit.  We’d gone this way just once before, on a dark, damp and very windy day a few winters ago.  It really was quite a grim day and we saw nothing of the views as the cloud was very low the whole time.  When we got out onto the upper slopes the wind was really starting to pick up and as we followed the line of the old fence up towards the summit it appeared to be getting stronger by the minute.  There seemed little point in continuing to the top (we’d all been there on a fine day a year or so earlier) and so we headed through the mists towards the steep slopes below the summit and the shelter they offered from the increasingly strong winds.  I remember we stamped seats into the large patch of melting snow we found there, and sat down to ‘enjoy’ our lunch.  By the time we’d finished and were making our way down, the wind had become exceedingly strong and it was hard to walk and for a while it was decidedly unpleasant.

Ben Chonzie, looking towards the summit

Ben Chonzie, looking towards the summit

So then, on Sunday we decided it was time to revisit this side of the hill and try and see it under better conditions.  The forecast was certainly hopeful and indeed we arrived at the wee car park at the start of the path in bright sunshine and there was frost on everything around.  We’d seen nothing of our surroundings last time we were here and so it was great to see the hills all around us this time …it really is a beautiful and quiet location.  Several other people had had the same idea as us and there were a couple of cars already parked and a couple more arrived as we were getting the boots on.  We enjoyed the fine weather for about an hour and a half I guess but as we gained height the blue skies turned gradually to grey and then the grey descended onto the tops and the summit of Ben Chonzie disappeared.  As we emerged once again onto the back of the hill, we felt the wind, not strong this time but very cold.  The ground was covered in frost and there were frozen pools and patches of icy snow all around.  The final rise to the summit came and went in the grey mist and we once again decided that we wouldn’t bother with the top but would instead walk over towards the lunch spot on our previous visit.

Ben Chonzie

Ben Chonzie

We got some interesting views of the big snow patches lying on the steep slopes and Nita spotted several mountain hares …resplendent in their white winter coats.  After this, we made a hasty retreat, back down the way we’d come.  In the end then, we still didn’t get the fine views from the top that we’d hoped for but we did see enough in the morning to want to come back once again.  There was a fantastic line of smaller hills just to the west that will have to be visited at some point in the future and this could well be a good place to do some sketching on a slightly warmer, clearer day.

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A brief lull ….

Posted by admin on December 29th, 2011
'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

It’s the morning of Wednesday 28th December and I’ve just seen my old college mate Mervin off.  He’s been staying with us for the last couple of nights and is now driving up to visit his mum and sister who live on the Isle of Bute in the Firth of Clyde.  He drove up from his home down south on Boxing Day and the plan was to go for a walk over on the Isle of Arran on the 27th (yesterday).  That said though, it was very much depending on the weather, more so than normal as we’ve had another succession of gales blowing in from the south west recently that have been disrupting the local ferry services somewhat.  It was certainly pretty windy all through Christmas Day and Boxing Day but the forecasts seemed to agree that there would be a short lull in proceedings during the early hours of 27th before another band of rain and wind arrived from the south in the afternoon.

It wasn’t great, but better than nothing and despite having driven around 300 miles the day before, Merv agreed that it would make sense to catch the early, 7 o’clock ferry to Brodick.  We only live a short distance from the ferry terminal at Ardrossan but even so this still meant leaving the house by about quarter past six in the morning!  The one advantage though of this early ferry (as I’ve no doubt said before) is that you can get a good breakfast on board during the 55 minute long crossing and arrive fuelled and ready to go.  I must admit though that I was a little surprised to find it still completely dark as we walked off the boat in Brodick ….don’t ask me why …I just never thought about it.  The ferry was quiet although we did meet one other chap who like us was heading for a walk …in his case, up Goat Fell.

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

At this time of year, especially on days where there is heavy cloud, the light is very poor and makes seeing where I’m going even more difficult than normal …and even slower more to the point.  For this reason I knew I’d not have enough daylight to get to the top of one of the hills and back and so we decided to walk up Glen Rosa between the mountains instead.  Mervin had never been to Arran and so we thought that this would at least give him an idea of the wonderful quality of the mountains here.  When he next makes a visit in the summer we can then go over and get up onto the tops.    The forecast seemed to be about right as the crossing was quite calm and there was little wind.  Even the grey clouds were above the summit of Goat Fell (the highest point on Arran) and it was looking good as we walked towards the start of Glen Rosa in the first light of the day.  Much of the snow that had been on Arranjust the other week had gone but Nita and Merv said they could still see some on the higher slopes and crags.

It was so quiet as we entered Glen Rosa; just the sound of the river rushing along and the odd pheasant and crow calling…..it was so peaceful.   We did meet the local farmer walking back to his farm and he reckoned it was wonderful in the glen that morning with the river flowing fast and clear.  He was right and it was hard to believe that it was just two days after Christmas.

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

After a mile or so the glen takes a hard turn to the north and the path crosses a bridge over another very busy stream that flows down the steep hillside in a series of waterfalls ….needless to say really, it was looking and sounding impressive.  Beyond the bridge the path gets narrower but over the years it has been well maintained and makes for good walking ….if for me, a little difficult in the gloomy light.  Care very definitely needed as in places the River Rosa, flowing on our right, cuts a small almost gorge through the rocks and there is a long drop into the torrent if you miss the edge of the path!

We had no real aim for the day and so fairly ambled along taking in the wild scenery of the glen and watching as the cloud slowly descended onto the tops once again.   Luckily Mervin did get to see the wonderful pyramid that is Cir Mhor, standing dramatically at the end of the glen, but then it too, slowly succumbed to the clagging mists.  We reached the head of the glen just before midday after many stops to take photos and eat Christmas cake.  At this point the path splits, one half crossing the River Rosa and climbing up to the Saddle between Cir Mhor and North Goat Fell, the other heading up to join the ridge on the other side of Cir Mhor.  We didn’t really have time to go much further and the river was high enough that to attempt crossing it would almost certainly have ended in wet boots or worse!  Up to our left though Merv could see a large boulder  several hundred feet  up on the hillside and we headed up towards this for a short while in order to get some views over looking the river…..but very quickly the cloud that had been getting lower by the minute, decided to let out some of its rain.   It was only fine, but the kind of stuff that really soaks you.  Mervin made it to the boulder and then it was just a case of walking back out in the increasingly heavy rain.  The light got even more gloomy but there was a strange stillness in the glen ….thankfully the rain might have arrived but the accompanying gales had not.  We made it back to the ferry terminal in Brodick as it was once again getting dark and had time to get out of the wet gear before catching the ferry home.  It wasn’t a classic Arran walk, but very enjoyable all the same and just great to once again get out into the fresh air and the quiet.

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

'In Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran'

The gales though, are back with a vengeance this morning and Mervin left here not knowing whether he’d be able to get over to the Isle of Bute …reported disruption on the main ferries again.  There is though a small very short crossing over to Bute that is apparently still running …but this involves a long drive around to get to it.   He just left here armed with food and a large flask of hot tea just in case he gets stuck and has to wait for the winds to abate …it could be a long day for him.

On the subject of brief lulls ……there is not going to be a blog next week I’m afraid …normal service will resume the week after that.  I will however, endeavour to post regular updates on my Face Book page for anyone interested, so why not check that out if you’ve not yet visited it.

I hope you’ve all had a good time over Christmas and have an equally fine few days over the New Year.  Back in 2012!

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At last!

Posted by admin on December 18th, 2011
Beinn Eich from Beinn Dubh

Beinn Eich from Beinn Dubh

Back at the start of October, week took some friends for a walk up Beinn Dubh in the Luss Hills above the southern end of Loch Lomond.  If you read the blog that week, you’ll remember that we had a wet and very windy day on the hill …not at all the best way to see or experience it.

Since that day we’ve been so busy that we haven’t managed to get back out into the hills.  When we did have odd days when neither of us were busy …….the weather did its very worse ….there seems to have been just one great Atlantic front after another blasting its way through the west of Scotland recently.  So, needless to say, I’m not at all fit once again!  It’s amazing just how quickly you lose fitness ….especially once you’re over 50!

Wind blown snow, Beinn Dubh

Wind blown snow, Beinn Dubh

With Thursday and Friday this week being taken up with work, we kept looking at the weather forecasts, expecting the inevitable weather system to come splurging its way in from the west and ruining this fine cold snap.  But no, things seemed quite settled for today, (Saturday) and so we decided  to get ourselves out on a hill …and of course, catch a bit of snow.

On Beinn Dubh

On Beinn Dubh

Irvine, being right by the sea, tends to stay a degree or two warmer than inland and so we’ve missed the snow that other parts of Scotland have been getting recently…..it’s just been very wet here …very wet indeed.  In fact, everywhere is awash with water and what we just didn’t need last night was a good hard frost.  Guess what?!  We got up this morning to find everything covered in ice!  We had to put the spiders (little instep crampons) on, just to get from the front door to the car.  The little road outside the house was like a skating rink …not great when you have 40 odd miles to drive. Just hoped the main roads would be better.

With the prospect of bad roads we’d decided to head back to Beinn Dubh as it’s all on main roads and as I say, not to far.  We got away at about aquarter to nine (later than we’d planned) and thankfully found the main roads pretty reasonable.  A few miles inland, the fields were covered in snow and it stayed like this all the way to Balloch at the southern end of Loch Lomond.  Beyond there, it fizzled out, at least at low levels and by the time we could see Beinn Dubh, the snow level was probably about 250m!  Quite amazing but it made for a good mix of colours in the bright sun.  Luss, like Irvine, was well iced up and you could have had an ice hockey game on the main car park!  Back on with the spiders!

Towards Ben Lomond

Towards Ben Lomond

As I’ve said about this hill in the past, you get good views all the way and this morning was no exception.  All the hills around were caked in snow at higher levels and with the bright blue sky and the green and brown coloured lower slopes, it looked stunning.  It was a good job it did, for my legs were complaining about this sudden bit of activity …I think they thought they’d been retired!  No such luck chaps ….with this government in you’ll be working even longer!  This did of course mean that we took plenty of stops to look and snap photos.  Across the loch to the NE, Ben Lomond looked beautiful under the snow, as did all the smaller Luss Hills.  In fact, with the snow, deep shadows and bright sun, you had to make yourself remember these were only 650m …they looked much bigger under these conditions.  When we reached the snow it was soft and fluffy, marked by patterns blown into the surface by the strong winds.  Higher up, at around 550m, it became very cold as we lost the shelter of the hills and walked into the brisk north westerly wind.  It didn’t matter though, we just added a few more layers and carried on snapping photos and ooooohing and ahhhhing at this amazing country.  At last, we were back on the hill.

Beinn Dubh

Beinn Dubh

****

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100 not out …but no telegram from the Queen!

Posted by admin on October 7th, 2011
A little bit of Europe at the summit of Beinn Dubh

A little bit of Europe at the summit of Beinn Dubh

Well, according to my records …this is my 100th blog ….give or take one or two that is.  I’ve quite enjoyed writing these blogs, admittedly, some more than others.  Some weeks it’s easy …..there has been something definite to write about …a walk, an exhibition or something to have a moan about …like the council dismantling the crane on the harbour side.  Occasionally though, nothing obvious has taken place during the preceding week and then it’s more difficult.  On these occasions any resemblance of writing disappears and as you’ve no doubt noticed …all you get is a bit of a ramble.

Now then, by pure chance, ‘a bit of a ramble’ is just what we had on Tuesday!

But before I go on to tell of this I need to set the scene …and go back to an evening in September 2008.

Loch Lomond from Beinn Dubh

Loch Lomond from Beinn Dubh

I had been working in my studio and to my surprise at about seven o’clock in the evening, there was a knock on the door and four people came in to have a look at the work.  Stewart, a Scotsman now living and working in Germany, was visiting family in Irvine along with his wife Evelyn and two friends from the same region in Germany.  They had just been into The Ship Inn (where Stewart and Evelyn first met …I wont say how many years before) ….and on coming out onto the street they’d noticed the Courtyard Studios sign and decided to take a look.  The main reason for coming in was that their friend Markus is a sculptor and was interested in seeing what was being done in Irvine. At the time I had been working on a large 200 x 100 cm painting and Markus was really interested in this.  After quite a time he told me abut the artists group he was a member of over in Speyer…and went on to say about the annual scholarship offered each year to an artist from around the world.  He asked me if it was something I might consider applying for …and very casually I said yes.  Well, I didn’t really expect anything to come of this, but Markus good to his word, went back to Germany at the end of his holiday and passed details of my work and website onto the members of the committee of the Kuenstlerbund Speyer eV.

In January 2009 I received a phone call from them formerly asking me to apply for the 2010 scholarship.  The rest, as they say, is history.  For anyone reading these blogs, you’ll no doubt have followed the preparations for my trip to Speyer last summer …and the weekly reports from said city.  And of course, it didn’t stop on my return to Scotland in September last year for as you know, I’m just about to go back to Speyer with an exhibition of my latest Scottish landscape paintings.

Take-off point for Paisley!

Take-off point for Paisley!

So then, it was rather nice timing to learn a few weeks ago that Stewart, Evelyn and Markus were to be visiting Irvine again in early October.  They all turned up at the Open Weekend last Sunday and it was great seeing them all again.  Needless to say we ended up going for a pint of Guinness in The Ship later and arranged to meet up again on Tuesday morning in Luss on the side of Loch Lomond.  Markus had particularly wanted to see the loch, and what better way to see it than from one of the many hills rising around it.  It was a perfect excuse to go and walk my favourite little circuit in the Luss hills.  The only problem though was the weather.  There had already been much rain and severe gales and it seemed to be getting worse through the week..and getting colder too.  There was even forecasts of snow on the higher hills come Thursday.  So, Tuesday seemed the best of a bad bunch …showers and very strong winds forecast (gust to 75 mph) …but relatively high cloud …certainly above the Luss Hills if not the Munros.

We had a great little walk and Markus certainly experienced the Scottish hills in ‘real’ Scottish weather ….bursts of bright sunshine, heavy dark clouds sweeping across the skies and temporarily shrouding everything in sheets of rain …and all blown along by an increasingly wild wind.  Once above 500 m it was quite a battle just to make progress at times.  The gusts were so strong that we were almost blown off our feet and it was very slow progress over the last few hundred metres to the small cairn marking the summit of Beinn Dubh at a little over 600m  Wow….wild or what, but we made it.  Our plan had been to walk the usual horse shoe circuit around and over Mid Hill before descending to the single track road in Glen Luss, but it would have taken us a long time battling against these severe gales …so we decided to go back the same way with the wind behind us.  How we all didn’t end up being blown all the way to Paisley I really don’t know.

As I say to my colleagues sometimes …if you invite people into your studio, you never quite know what will come of it.  Little did I think back in September 2008 that three years later I’d have completed a four month long scholarship in Germany, held an exhibition of my Scottish paintings there …and been for a crazy walk in the Scottish hills with a Scottish / German translator, a German sculptor and a German teacher (retired!) …it could almost be the opening line for a joke!

Anyway, thanks again to Stewart, Evelyn and Markus for visiting my studio back in 2008 …it’s been a great adventure since then. I hope they enjoy the exhibition in Speyer in a couple of weeks time when we all meet up again at the preview on Friday 21st October.

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Heading for Goat Fell on the 7am ferry…

Posted by admin on September 16th, 2011
'Heading for Goat Fell ...on the 7am ferry'

'Heading for Goat Fell ...on the 7am ferry'

Talk about leaving it a bit late, we took the decision to head over to Arran for a walk up Goat Fell yesterday, after I got back from the studio on Wednesday evening. Not the greatest of preparations but thankfully we had some bread rolls in the freezer and a supply of Lucozade …it wouldn’t be the best packed lunch in the world but good enough.

It’s been pretty miserable up here in Scotland for the last few days with rain and high winds but as we put the rucksacks into the car for the short drive to the ferry …at about 6.15am …there was just enough light to see that the sky was virtually cloud free …it was looking good.

As you may have noticed from the blogs, we haven’t been out on the hill for a good few weeks now.  I’ve just been so busy at the studio that with one thing and another …coupled with many days of low grey cloud and rain …well we just never managed to get out.  I’ve been wanting to go and walk my 50th Corbett but still haven’t decided which hill that will be and so on Wednesday evening we just wanted somewhere to go that would stretch the legs and give great views …what better place to go than Goat Fell over on the Isle of Arran.  On a clear day the views from its summit must be some of the best in Scotland and for us living just across the water in Irvine; it has the advantage of virtually no driving, and the luxury of getting breakfast during the 55 minute crossing between Ardrossan and Brodick.  You arrive in the picturesque little town of Brodick and can see many of the big Arran hills (including Goat Fell) rising just to the north.  You don’t even have to catch a bus to the base of the hill …there is a wonderful path that picks it’s way between the golf course and the sea all the way to below Brodick castle where the main ‘tourist’ path starts and the wonderful Arran Brewery has it’s home.

'On Goat Fell'

'On Goat Fell'

Everything looked so beautiful as we walked along the beach the final few hundred metres to the start of the Goat Fell path.  The sea was an intense blue and the trees were just starting to take on that autumn colouring.  The path picks its way up and around the edge of Brodick Castle gardens ….heading through a mixture of trees and habitat.  After a while it reaches a small fast flowing stream with a wee bridge over it.  I can remember a few years back when this bridge was just a fairly narrow affaire with no hand rail …I used to shuffle my way over it, worrying that I’d miss the edge and end up getting a soaking!  No worries now …as I say, there’s a proper little bridge in place.  About this point you get to the edge of the trees and the path turns and runs across a fairly level section heading for the shoulder of the hill.  We had seen just two other folk at this time and it was so peaceful as we wandered along the stony path.  Already the views to the south were impressive …but there was also a lot of very low cloud out there and we worried that this was the ‘weather’ that the forecast had said was due in later that day …arrived early as it were.

Once onto the ridge the path is nearly all rock …hours and hours of time and hard work moving greet stones and boulders into place, utilizing the natural outcrops and picking a clever line, have created a fine and safe path all the way to the summit.  You don’t have to follow it of course and you can clamber your way up and through the granite boulders and outcrops if you choose.  The views just get better and better as you gain height but the best is left to the last on this hill.  As the angle suddenly eases you arrive on a boulder and slab strewn summit and suddenly you get the most amazing views…the whole of the rocky, Arran mountains stretch out before you, the narrow ridges, rocky pinnacles and bright sand screes. . .there is just so much to look at.  All around you can see the sea and out to the east is the dark line of the main and Ayrshire.  Further to the south Nita pointed out Ailsa Craig.  We had reached the top just before midday and so it seemed like the perfect spot for lunch.

East from Goat Fell

East from Goat Fell

As we sat looking out over the deep trough of Glen Rosa, the very low broken cloud we’d seen earlier to the south, started to feed in on the breeze.  It bubbled up beneath us heading north up Glen Rosa before briefly shrouding the fine pointy summit of Cir Mhor.  It came and went creating a constantly changing view, different colours, tones and patterns.  The strange thing was that for almost an hour as we watched this wonderful changing show …the cloud never enveloped us on the summit of Goat Fell …the highest point on the island.  Indeed, we were sat in bright sunshine much of the time we were watching the flowing and breaking clouds ….quite amazing.  There was a good few folk on the summit by this time …all transfixed by the scene.  After about an hour the cloud faded away and we were left with an almost cloud free sky.  The ridge over to North Goat Fell looked tempting (we first scrambled our way along and over its stumpy pinnacles way back in 1988 during our first ever holiday together), but we decided instead just to have a leisurely return in the sun.

From Goat Fell ...the summit of Cir Mhor above the cloud

From Goat Fell ...the summit of Cir Mhor above the cloud

As I’ve said before, the Isle of Arran Brewery is situated right at the start of the path up Goat Fell, and as we reached it on our way back …having cut it too fine to catch the 16.40 ferry, we stopped by and bought ourselves a couple of bottles of Arran Blonde from the brewery shop.  They have seats and tables outside and so long as you open the bottles yourself …you can sit and drink them in the evening sun …which is what we did.  Within 15 minutes several other walkers, arriving back after a hot day on the hill, stopped and did like-wise.

A gentle amble back around the bay and just time for some chips before the ferry arrived …then coffee and a kip before arriving back in Ardrossan a little after eight in the evening …what a wonderful day.

A local fisherman ...near Brodick

A local fisherman ...near Brodick

Interestingly on Wednesday evening I also received an email inviting me to take part in a group exhibition at the Dick Institute in Kilmarnock…at the end of January.  They asked if I might have any paintings I could include that were local to the area.  I’m thinking I may well be able to do a couple of pieces based on the incredible views we had while at the summit of Goat Fell.  Anyway, more details about this exhibition as and when I know them.

Finally, if you’re reading this and live in Ayrshire and have never made the trip over to Arran …well then …do go and visit.  It is a magical place with something for everyone and as I found yesterday, when you’ve been working hard and are tired and worn out …a day on the island relaxes and restores.

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A short walk on the Isle of Arran

Posted by admin on August 21st, 2011
Holy Isle and Lamlash Bay

Holy Isle and Lamlash Bay

This time last week I’d just got back from a trip to the Isle of Arran with my partner Anita and good friend Norma. I can’t quite believe a week has gone by so quickly and this blog is now a day late! Norma had travelled over from Angus on Friday evening with the aim of getting out for a walk, catching up on news and grabbing a beer or two. We first met ten years ago (and hasn’t that time flown) when both Norma and I were on the Mountain skills course for visually impaired, at Glenmore Lodge near Aviemore. Ever since we’ve kept in contact and most years get to meet up once or twice, either over here in the west of Scotland or in Angus where Norma lives. Over this time we’ve done a good few walks including Goat Fell, Ben Lomond, and Meall a’Bhuiridh in the west and Mayer, Driesh and Mount Keen in the east ….and yes, we’ve sampled a few different east and west coast brews too!

Goat Fell ....clear

Goat Fell ....clear

Last Saturday we were a little undecided quite where to go for our walk. The forecast was for very low cloud …200 – 300m so there didn’t seem much point in gaining too much height. On top of this was the fact that Norma was still a little uncertain about one of her knees that she’d hurt back in February on a cross country skiing holiday over in the United States. She didn’t want to take on anything too gruelling for this reason and so all in all a low level walk somewhere seemed about right ….now all we had to do was decide on the somewhere!

A good few years ago now, (the year of the foot and mouth disease in fact) Nita and had had to cancel our usual spring walking holiday and instead took a two week long break over on the Isle of Arran in late October. It was a particularly bad couple of week’s weather wise and as such we kept fairly low much of the time. One of the walks we did was a very pleasant little walk south along the coast from Brodick to a point over looking Lamlash Bay and Holy Isle and then inland a mile or so and up and over the wee Clauchland Hills before returning to Brodick. This, or a variation on the theme, seemed an ideal choice as it meant a civilized start (catching the quarter to ten ferry over instead of the seven o’clock sailing and we didn’t have to fight our way onto the crowded buses ….we could walk straight off of the ferry.

Catching the later ferry on a Saturday in August does have one drawback though …it’s very busy and by the time we were aboard nearly every seat was taken and the storage area for rucksacks and bags was over flowing. In good weather this isn’t a problem as you can go and sit outside, but last Saturday morning it was grey and cool and everyone seemed to be jammed inside. After a bit of searching we did find one empty little corner in which to stick our sacks and we eventually got some coffee and cake. I was going to say that this was the busiest I’ve ever seen this ferry but then remembered we actually failed to get on once on a very busy summers day!

Our walk last Saturday proved a good one. As it wasn’t going to be a long day we just wandered along in no great rush, enjoying the views out over the sea and indeed enjoying the sun that was starting to appear. The cloud though was well down on the Arran hills and you’d never have known Goat Fell existed as we looked back across Brodick Bay. We had our lunch atop a prominent little headland in what was fast becoming bright sunshine with wonderful views over to Holy Isle accompanied by the occasional cries of either a Buzzard or an Eagle …we couldn’t decide …or agree!

August on the Isle of Arran

August on the Isle of Arran

After lunch we wandered on …uphill now and over the undulating heathery little lumps of the Clauchlad Hills to reach the high point at around 260m. If the cloud had lifted from the bigger hills at this point we would have had exceptional views I think …but still there was many bright patches of sun and the colours around us were lovely ….especially the heather which was well in flower. We returned slowly the same route and as we descended the wee road back into Brodick the cloud did finally clear and Goat Fell and the other big hills all came into view …it looked stunning. The ferry back to Ardrossan wasn’t as bad as the morning crossing and we even got a seat in the bar …and so enjoyed a fabulous bottle of Arran Blonde beer on our way back. The Arran Brewery really do produce some very fine ale and if you haven’t tried it …then keep a look out in your local super markets …many stock bottles. I prefer their Arran Blonde beer but they brew several different ones …all that are very fine.

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Paint, paint, walk!

Posted by admin on July 25th, 2011
Cruachan reservoir

Cruachan reservoir

Yes, I know, this blog is late!  No real excuses except I’m busy getting all the work together for the various exhibitions coming up this autumn ..and it’s already the end of the third week in July.  And of course, new paintings demand new information, new inspiration … in the way of me getting up and out into the hills.  So then, this week has once again been made up of painting with a day walk added for good measure.

The new paintings are coming on well I think and I now have 9 of the larger 80 x 80 cm pieces completed (or almost) ….but I’ve sold one of these at my Blairmore exhibition …so in practice I have eight.  I currently have two more pieces on the go and plans for another two following a very informative and beautiful walk on Saturday.  This would give me the ten large pieces for Speyer in October with a couple of others for the exhibition in Dundee in mid September.  But I would still like to get a couple more finished at this size too.  That I think means six more large pieces to complete before the end of September …and no doubt a few smaller pieces too.  It certainly means putting in the hours at the studio and so days like today where I’ll be bashing away at this computer are going to have to be cut back a little …. I’m afraid my next few blogs may be somewhat shorter and more thrown together than normal!!!

In the studio - Sunday

In the studio - Sunday

In the midst of all this rushing around I also have the Wasps Open Studios Weekend to prepare for ….this is being held on Saturday / Sunday 1st & 2nd October.  I’m not sure quite how many of the Courtyard Studios artists are taking part this year …but I think that the usual crowd of us will be there again this year …so as always, it’ll be a good and varied selection of work on display.  If you’re a local to Ayrshire then make a note in your diary.  If you want to be added to my mailing list for this and other events just drop me an email to; keith@keithsalmon.org or click on the red link at the bottom of the page to subscribe.

Loch Awe from the hydro road

Loch Awe from the hydro road

As I said though, the week ended with another fine walk.  Once again we were tracking the weather via the Mountain Weather Information Service and matching it with available days …not many this week with my partner Anita working more but shorter shifts for the next few weeks.  Saturday though looked good for both of us and indeed the weather was superb over in the west of Scotland and so a trip to the Ben Cruachan group of hills seemed like the place to go.  Over the last few years we’ve walked most of these large and rugged mountains but there is one hill we’ve never visited …Beinn a’ Bhuidh.  This slightly more modest hill rising to just below 900 m sits above the Cruachan Reservoir and just to the SE of Ben Cruachan.  It’s location as a view point both for the fine mountain scenery and the large expansive views west along Loch Awe and right out to the sea and the mountains over on the Isle of Mull …well, I doubt it can be beaten.

Towards Ben Cruachan

Towards Ben Cruachan

We decided to go for the short steep option ..but one that gave us the maximum view.   Parking at the side of the main road a kilometre to the west of Lochawe village we followed the hydro road up to the Cruachan reservoir dam.  It gains quite a bit of height and is a bit of a slog but the views out over Loch Awe and the Pass of Brander are superb and it makes a good and pleasant start to the walk.  From the dam though …well, it’s straight up with the deep blue of the reservoir looking stunning with the rocky Cruachan peaks all around.  Beinn a’ Bhuidh is quite rocky too and the higher sections are made up of numerous small broken crags and jumbles of boulders which need avoiding or clambering over.  The steepness doesn’t really let up until almost at the top but with all the rocky outcrops and the huge and ever expanding views as you gain height, it makes for an enjoyable haul.  We returned virtually the same way but the weather was so good that on both the ascent and descent, we spent much time just sitting and looking …and at one point …dozing.  It was so peaceful and so beautiful.  Interestingly, the rock formations of the main Cruachan hills were quite amazing.  As the afternoon progressed the shadows started picking out the various layers of the rock.  These seemed to change direction in different places and reminded me very much of some of the marks I make in my paintings.  As I sat looking at this wonder of nature I was already planning my next couple of paintings.

West from Beinn a' Bhuidh

West from Beinn a' Bhuidh

We got back to the car about 7pm and had a stunningly beautiful drive back through the southern highlands under a cloud free sky with the hills almost glowing in the low evening sun.

Sunday was to have been a trip up to Stirling to attend the preview of an exhibition by Lorraine Nicholson, but with everything building up, my blog and work of the week still not written and paintings urgently needing finishing …well, I just had to get back down to the studio.   It was worth it though as I did manage to finish one piece and had a couple of folk in to see the work.  No sales but they were enthusiastic and went away with some of my post cards …so who knows where those may end up.  It’s a good way to promote the paintings and of course each card has my website address included on the reverse.  Right then…back to the painting!

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Beinn an Lochain – a view from the top

Posted by admin on July 15th, 2011
'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

Apparently, (although don’t quote me on this) Beinn an Lochain was once thought to be a Munro …but with the introduction of better measuring devices it was found to be short of the magic 3000 ft / 914 m.  That said, at 901 m it still rises above many of its Arrochar neighbours and more importantly, is probably one of the best of the group.  Its fine northerly ridge has enough rock, steepness and drops to make you feel like you’re climbing a proper mountain (well, it certainly does if you can’t see where you’re putting your feet that is!).

The problem though for me with this hill is that although I’ve teetered my way up it’s ridge three times in the last ten years….I’ve never seen the upper section of the hill properly, let alone had a view from the top.  Twice we’d been there in thick cloud and rain.  The third attempt was with Air na Creagan back in early winter a number of years ago and although it started off clear, by the time we were three quarters of the way up …it filled in and the fine views with all the hills dusted in snow, had gone.

'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

Every time we’ve driven over the Rest and Be Thankful I’ve looked up and thought that I must climb Beinn an Lochain again …but on a clear day.  Apart from just wanting to see it, I really wanted to get some photos, perhaps even some quick sketches of the ridge …they might be good for a new painting.  So then, on Tuesday, with both Nita and I working Wednesday and with a good forecast, we were looking for a ‘short’ day …nothing too arduous – Beinn an Lochain seemed the perfect place to go.

The trouble with forecasts that say ‘60% chance of a cloud free Munro’, is that I always forget this also means that there’s a 40% chance of there not being a clear top!  When we set off from Irvine at 06.30 there was blue sky above, but by the time we were going over the Erskine Bridge we were under a heavy slab of dark low cloud and on reaching the southern end of Loch Lomond ….well, the hills were shrouded in dark grey mist right down to about 600 m.  Blast!  Already my chance of finally getting a view from the top of Beinn an Lochain were looking bleak, but it was early and so perhaps in time this blanket of cloud would lift and break.  So, what to do?  It didn’t seem much point to start walking straight away ..it wasn’t going to clear that quickly and so instead we stopped at the car park at Luss and went and got ourselves an early morning cup of tea from the wee shop there.  This is a well stocked little place and was open when we got there at 07.45, so pretty useful as a watering hole when you’re heading for a hill.  There’s toilets next door too, so what more do you want?!  A view possibly …or that was probably the opinion of the group who arrived on a coach while we were drinking our tea and looking at the cloud.

'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

It didn’t look too promising but there were just a few minor breaks and bright patches by the time we arrived at the car park at the top of the Rest and Be Thankful.  We decided to stall further …and put the seats back and had a kip for a while.  On waking, it did look a little better and there was nothing for it but to get the boots on and go.  We’d already ‘killed’ almost two hours, we couldn’t leave it any longer.

Our plan was to traverse the hill, climbing it by its northerly ridge and descending its steep grass and crag covered southerly flanks.  This involves walking the road from the car park past Loch Restil to a point where you can cross its out flowing stream and pick up the path that leads all the way up the ridge to the summit.  Thankfully the stream wasn’t full and crossing it was easy (not always the case) and we were soon on the rough path that picks its way up the ridge.  This involves clambering up many rocky little outcrops as the path gains height quickly.  We weren’t the only thing going up though, ….looking across the glen we suddenly realised we could see the summit of Beinn Luibhean and even Beinn Ime at just over 1000m was now almost clear!  It was still grey but things were improving fast.  After a while we reached the first short level (ish) section and got a glimpse of the top.  The steep rocky sections ahead look quite impressive without cloud and I had to make myself remember that despite their appearance, the path did wind its way through and around the crags.  It was certainly a challenge in places especially where the narrow path went along the edges of the ridge …not places to misjudge the width of the path!  By this stage we even had some weak sunshine and the mountain looked superb.

'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

The final steep section is very impressive passing a large and imposing crag before arriving suddenly at the summit cairn.  We had finally done it …we were at the top of Beinn an Lochain and had a view – albeit a rather dark one.  The sun had been brief and the cloud although now higher, was dark and quite heavy.  A woman we met near the summit said she’d heard rumours of thunder and lightening for the afternoon ….and it certainly felt like it.  Not really a place to sit and do a sketch or two but I had a good look around and took some photos ….and then we were off.

Our route took us off the immediate summit and past a wee loch that reflected the hill beautifully.  After that, it was a steep descent down grass slopes, avoiding crags.  The grass was long and there were masses of flowers growing too, including numerous flowering thistles …beautiful but not good if you sat down in the wrong place! It was a tiring descent and a hot and sweaty one too.  The skies had become very dark and threatening but we got back to the car before any serious rain fell.  It was a wonderful day and one from which I hope to get a few paintings in the future.  If you haven’t been up this hill….well, I strongly recommend it.  For fully sighted folk it’s a relatively short day, for those who can’t see too much, it’s quite a challenge.

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A good week

Posted by admin on July 9th, 2011
Creag Mhor from Stob an Fhir Bhogha

Creag Mhor from Stob an Fhir Bhogha

It has been a busy but profitable week….alas, not financially, but I’ve certainly got a lot of painting done.

The week started well though with a very enjoyable day on the hill. With the forecast looking very good we’d decided to go back to Glen Lochy and once again head for Creag Mhor …the 1047m Munro that lies at the western end of the glen. As reported we’d been here back in the spring but on that occasion thoroughly messed up our navigation and failed to get to the top …so then, this was to be our second attempt. We hadn’t though appreciated quite how hot it was going to be ….and it’s a fairly long walk to the base of the hill. It really was baking as we headed along the glen and there was hardly a breath of wind to ease the heat.

From Beinn Heasgarnich

From Beinn Heasgarnich

After about an hour and a quarter we stopped for a drink and on realising we still had another kilometre or so to go in this oven we decided to change our plans and head straight up and climb the nearer of the two Munros – Beinn Heasgarnich….hoping that by gaining some height we might get into a breeze or some cooler air. This involved a steep haul up grass, picking our way between small crags until at around 800 m the angle eased and we reached a large and rather boggy flattish area. Beyond another steep and craggy section led to the top of Stob an Fhir Bhogha at 1029 m. It certainly became less hot but not because of height or finding the breeze. Instead, very rapidly, cloud appeared and by the time we were half way up there was virtually no blue sky visible and it was becoming very dark…..but thankfully cooler. To the south of us we could clearly see Ben More and as it is almost 100 m higher than the hill we were on, it gave a good indicator as to whether the cloud base was getting lower. Thankfully, this wasn’t the case, but apart from the occasional glimpse of the sun we were walking in quite gloomy light for the rest of the day.

Beinn Heasgarnich

Beinn Heasgarnich

From the top of Stob an Fhir Bhogha it’s just a very simple and gentle wander across almost level stony tops to reach the summit of Beinn Heasgarnich at 1078 m. Despite the now grey skies, the visibility was very good and we could make out many of the peaks …Ben Nevis stood out very clearly to the north.

Despite there being a number of cars parked at the end of the road when we set out, we only saw three other walkers all day …one of them who turned up at the summit just five minutes after our arrival. We returned by a slightly different route, one that was less steep but slightly wetter …but at least we got to see lots of tiny yellow frogs …some of them no bigger than a 5p piece! Needless to say I didn’t see as many as Nita.

Beinn Heasgarnich

Beinn Heasgarnich

 

The painting has as I said gone well this week. I’ve completed another of the new 80 x 80 cm pieces and have two more on the go and several more planned. Nita had been over to Kilmarnock to get some more board cut for me and so in between the real painting I’ve been madly priming these boards. I’m quite pleased with the way things are progressing and I feel that I am at long last starting to move these paintings on a bit …it’s quite exciting. I’m arranging for a photographer to visit the studio at the end of the month so should have some decent images to show you in a couple of weeks.

It’s the annual North Ayrshire Open Exhibition soon. Today is the hand in day today and I am entering a small piece and one of the new larger paintings. Nita put this big piece in a frame the other day and it is the first time I’ve seen one of these new larger pieces framed up …I’m very pleased with the way it’s looking. Mind you, as with all ‘open’ exhibitions …you can never be sure if your work will be selected. It’s a bit of a gamble, though it’s always a little depressing if your stuff is rejected, but that’s the nature of the beast I guess!!! Fingers crossed! The exhibition opens a week today and runs for two weeks. Most years it contains around a hundred or so paintings and a small selection of sculpture. Its well worth a visit so if you live in Ayrshire do call in to see it. I’ll be posting full details shortly.

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Back out again …at last!

Posted by admin on June 24th, 2011
Luss hills

Luss hills, June 2011

It’s been a few weeks since we were out on the hills and I been getting withdrawal symptoms! It’s certainly been a very busy few weeks what with one thing and another and there’s been a lot of bad weather in these parts too.

Anyway, yesterday finally arrived along with its promised better weather and as Nita wasn’t working and I didn’t need to be down the studio, we grabbed it with both hands. In the past when we’d visited the Luss Hills we’d always just gone and walked the fine little circuit of Beinn Dubh and Mid Hill. There are of course a good number of other hills in this area although they tend to be slightly longer days.

 

Luss hills

Luss hills, June 2011

Yesterday then, we decided to do a walk over Beinn Each and Beinn Lochain to Doune Hill ….and then instead of descending into the glen for a long and no doubt rather damp and midge infested walk back …we simply returned the same way.

It’s about an hour long walk to the base of the first hill but this is along a very pleasant single track road up Glen Luss. The grassy hills rise steeply on both sides but the base of the glen has many trees …lots of them oak I think and it makes for an enjoyable walk in and out. As you get towards the end of the public road you get good views of Beinn Each and the route beyond …and you start to think it’s going to be quite a long day!

 

Luss hills June 2011

Luss hills, June 2011

Thankfully the forecast was correct and the sky was a patchwork of bright blue areas of sky between dark and at times threatening clouds. This created a fantastic constantly changing pattern of light, shade and colour that looked absolutely beautiful. Just beyond the end of the road a sign post points over a stile indicating the route to Beinn Each. It’s a fine broad ridge of mainly grass with the occasional boulders and small crags but at this time of year there’s plenty to look at by your feet – numerous tiny yellow and white flowers and on the lower slopes, white / purple orchids of some type. I’m not a botanist so don’t ask me what any of them were exactly..but they looked great and certainly took my mind of the fact that my legs were complaining as we plodded up the ridge to the summit at just over 700m.

The summit of Beinn Each is marked with a small cairn of white or light grey stones. It stands out fine against the turf and close by are several mini, mini lochs ..no more than a couple of feet across, each one reflecting the sky above. Beyond this is a proper ridge …not narrow but narrow enough to feel the ground dropping away on both sides and making you feel like you’re on the top of the world …it was wonderful. After a couple of hundred metres though it broadens again before descending around 160 m to a wide beallach, grass covered and dissected with a fine pattern of peat hags. There were also a couple of fine crags, more like mini escarpments, two or three metres high and perhaps thirty metres long. These though weren’t cutting across the width of the hill but instead followed the length of the ridge – rather like the spine of the mountain poking through the peat.

Beyond the almost inconspicuous top of Beinn Lochain there was another slight descent before a final steep little rise to the summit of Doune Hill. It’s quite a spot, far enough away from the A82 with its constant drone of traffic, that as we sat there we could hear no man made sounds what so ever …just the noise of the wind in the grass, an occasional bee or other insect and the regular song of Skylarks. Just what was needed after the busy couple of weeks I’d just had. Bliss in fact! And then of course we had to do it all over again to get back to the car …except that this time the sun had moved and the views all looked different. It’s a wonderful thing the landscape.

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