counter hit xanga
Tyndrum | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings - Part 2

Posts Tagged ‘Tyndrum’

Looking for paintings

Cononish Glen

Cononish Glen

It’s been a week of painting for the most part.  As I think I’ve said before, I’ve been invited to hold an exhibition of my work at ‘the gallery on the corner’ in Edinburgh during March.  The exhibition preview is on Friday March 1st and the show will run until the end of the month.  I’m looking at providing around 17 pieces of work for the exhibition including a good selection of the smaller acrylic & pastel paintings.  After three months of quite good sales in the lead up to Christmas, it’s meant that I’m a little short of the smaller paintings now and I’ve been working on some new pieces recently.  I’ve completed four 30 x 30 cm paintings and have several more on the go.  I’m also working on a couple new 76 x 23 cm paintings too.  All of these are based on our most recent walks, to Rannoch Moor, The Ochil’s and I’m hoping, from the walk we did in Cononish Glen yesterday.  On each of these walks we’ve had superb conditions creating beautiful colours, patterns and contrasts.  Each day was different but very atmospheric in its own right.  The latest small piece to be completed is based on the view we had looking across from the Ghlas Beinn ridge towards Achaladair a few weeks ago.  Needless to say, it was cold and as we wandered along the broad grassy ridge a line of low cloud crept along the glen below us.  This painting is my current ‘Work of the week’, ….just click on the ‘Home’ link to see it.

Cloud breaking around the base of Ben Lui

Cloud breaking around the base of Ben Lui

Our walk yesterday had similar conditions, except that we were down in the base of the glen, (Cononish Glen) and the banks of cloud and mist were drifting along at different levels, some at ground level, some higher, skirting around the hillsides like a tide-line.  It made for strange and interesting scenes.

Below Ben Oss

Below Ben Oss

I had actually planned this easy walk for quite a time, hoping to see the main big corrie on Ben Lui close up and under snow.  But of course, the best made plans and all that!  Instead of snow covered mountains as I’d hoped for in early January, we found almost no snow.  The exceptionally mild conditions since New Years Day had meant a rapid and almost complete thaw, leaving just a few obstinate patches high up on most of the bigger hills and none whatsoever on the smaller ones.  This said however, Ben Lui is one of the bigger mountains and rises to around 1100 m and its huge and magnificent corrie does face east …or north east ..I’ll have to check the map!  But whatever the exact direction, it does mean that the corrie and the big gullies leading up from it, do tend to hold on to their snow a good deal longer than elsewhere.  This was the case yesterday and although there wasn’t much snow, the big gullies leading up from the corrie into cloud and towards the summit, were still full and created a marvellous pattern against the dark rock of the upper mountain.

Below Ben Lui

Below Ben Lui

Our walk yesterday was really just one for looking, taking a few photos and trying to come up with ideas for new work.  It normally takes us just under two hours to walk from Tyndrum up Cononish Glen to the end of the estate track directly below the bulk of Ben Lui …the point where normally we’d ford the stream and start heading up.  Yesterday though, we took nearer three hours!  There was no rush and we could just wander along taking in the wonderful changing scene before us as the banks of mist and cloud came and went, sometimes dark and threatening, at other times,  light, wispy and translucent as it moved across the hillside caught in a brief shaft of sunlight.  Strangely, although I was hoping to get ideas for new paintings, I actually came away with ideas for some new graphite drawings!  Not quite what was planned, but if there’s one thing I’ve learnt over the years, it’s that you have to be flexible!  After a great little walk, now all I have to do, is the work.

Looking east from Cononish

Looking east from Cononish

Beinn Chuirn

Beinn Chuirn

-o-o-o-o-

‘Early morning, October,Loch Lomond’

early-morning-october-loch-lomond-acrylic-pastel-2012-30-x-30cm

‘Early morning, October, Loch Lomond’

‘Early morning, October,Loch Lomond’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2012, 30 x 30cm

This is one of my latest small 30 x 30 cm paintings.  Based on the early morning light on the hills above the western shores of Loch Lomond.  We had been travelling up to Tyndrum back in October to do a walk up Beinn Odhar and as we drove up the side of Loch Lomond the rising sun illuminated the tops of the hills.  In their autumn colours the scene was particularly good and we just had to stop and look.

A great weekend followed by a great walk

I can’t believe it’s Thursday again already …this last week has just flown by ….but perhaps that’s because it has been a good one.

The lower slopes of Beinn Odhar from the West Highland Way

The lower slopes of Beinn Odhar from the West Highland Way

Our Open Weekend at the Courtyard Studios last Saturday and Sunday, proved a real success.  All the hard work that everyone had put into it, paid off and we had around 300 visitors over the course of the weekend.  We were, I have to admit, very lucky with the weather this year and instead of the rain and howling gales of last year we had two beautiful sunny days for the event.  The courtyard looked great with all the doors open this year and an added bonus was a newly repaired and painted table in the centre …..courtesy of ‘Jim the joiner’, a retired gentleman who makes stretcher frames for Margaret and who agreed to fix our courtyard table prior to the weekend……many thanks Jim.  I think everyone had a good time and there were certainly a few sales and a couple of commissions gained along with a lot of interest that will hopefully turn into sales over the next weeks, months or years.  There is already talk of perhaps doing another event during the lead up to Christmas ….we have a meeting next week so we’ll see what folk are thinking and take it from there.  Anyway, the biggest thanks for last weekend’s success must go to everyone who came down to the Harbour side and visited the studios ….I hope you all enjoyed yourselves.  Remember that visitors are always welcome at the Courtyard Studios, so do feel free to call in next time you’re passing.  You’ll have to take us as you find us ….these are working studios ….but that all adds to the interest.

The Crianlarich Hills from the slopes of Beinn Odhar

The Crianlarich Hills from the slopes of Beinn Odhar

I must admit that by Monday I was pretty tired.  I was in putting everything back in its place and even did some painting in the afternoon.  The weather though was still good and the mountain forecast suggested 80% chance of a cloud free Munro.  With Nita working on Wednesday and the weather going wet again on Thursday we just had to catch ourselves a walk while things were so good.  We haven’t been out though for around five weeks ….when we were up on the hills above Glen Shee and so we didn’t want too big a walk …just something short but steep enough to get the leg muscles complaining!  Last week for my ‘Artwork of the week’, I showed a small painting based on a day we’d had on Beinn Odhar near Tyndrum …and this seemed the perfect hill for occasion.  It has the added bonus that you can leave the car in Tyndrum and have breakfast at the Green Welly before starting out and a cup of tea on your return!  Perfect.

'A perfect spot for a snooze!'

‘A perfect spot for a snooze!’

There was a real feel of autumn in the air as we drove north with frost on the verges at the side of the road.  The colours on the hillside were particularly bright as the sun rose and caught the tops of the bigger hills.  The sky was completely clear and Loch Lomond looked stunning ….so good that we just had to stop at Inveruglas and take a few photos.  By the time we got to Tyndrum the sun was higher and the mountains looked very inviting …but not before a bacon roll and a cup of their excellent coffee at the Green Welly.

From near the summit of Beinn Odhar

From near the summit of Beinn Odhar

We started walking (heading north up the West Highland Way) around half past nine and after crossing the bridge over the railway line, we left the WHW and headed up the steep mainly grass slopes of Beinn Odhar.  It was hard work for my out of condition legs and I needed many regular stops (to admire the view of course) as we gradually gained height.  The views back to Ben Oss and Ben Lui were great and higher up you could see over the intervening ridge to Ben More and its neighbours.  It never ceases to amaze me when walking this hill that half way up you find the remains of an old mine …what a place to come and work.  There is still the start of an old shaft cut horizontally into the rock …but it must have proved fruitless because it only goes into the hillside a matter of a few feet.   Beyond this the ground eases and there is a tiny loch perched below the final steep and rock strewn summit.  It is remarkably beautiful here and so quiet.  In fact it was so peaceful that we decided to lie back and have a snooze for half an hour in the warm morning sunshine!  The final few hundred feet to the summit cairn is as I say, steep and strewn with stones, but it makes for a great final ascent and you arrive at the top with three hundred and sixty degree views.  On a day like Tuesday …this meant big views …he air was very clear and even I could see a fair way.  We spent more time sat at the top taking in the peace and quiet and listening to a couple of Ravens as they swooped overhead in the autumn sun.  This really was what was needed after a very busy month …back to the work now but we’re already planning the next outing.

‘Breaking cloud, Beinn Odhar’

252-breaking-cloud-beinn-odhar-acrylic-pastel-2012-30-x-30-cm

‘Breaking cloud, Beinn Odhar’

‘Breaking cloud, Beinn Odhar’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2012, 30 x 30 cm

This is a recent small acrylic and pastel painting based on a day a few years ago when we walked Beinn Odhar ….a 900 m hill just to the north of Tyndrum in the Southern Highlands.  It is only a short walk to the top ….even I can get there and back in just over four hours, but this is not the point.  It is particularly steep and so is a good short work out ….and is one that offers great views.  Well, it does if the cloud is not down.

On the day that this painting is based on, we started off in damp grey weather and with the cloud well down on the hill. Indeed, all the way up the steep slopes to the summit we saw nothing.  However as we reached the summit we noticed that it had become lighter and although we sat there eating our lunch in mist, we did have the feeling that not too far above our heads the sun was shining.  Sadly it didn’t clear while we were at the top …a real shame as the views are extensive, but as we started to descend the first few hundred feet of steep rock strewn ground, we saw a big break appearing in the cloud.  As we watched the break led to blue sky and we had a glimpse of the hill on the other side of the glen …just sticking out of the cloud.  After a short while the cloud lifted completely and we were suddenly in bright sun with the higher mountains around clearing too.  By the time we were down to the car the sky was completely blue …what a transformation.

Back to Beinn Chuirn ….ice free this time!

Ben Oss from just above the gold mine on Beinn Chuirn

Ben Oss from just above the gold mine on Beinn Chuirn

The last time we went to walk Beinn Chuirn, (in the winter a couple of years ago) we encountered difficult conditions ….well, for me they were anyway!  There was virtually no snow, but it had been very cold for quite a long period and so there was a lot of ice ….thick and black amongst the grass and rocks.  I was really struggling to see it and this made for very slow progress.  After several hours we were only a little over half way up and with the prospect of having to descend on this slippery ground, we decided to cut our losses and retreat.  It was disappointing but wise ….and we had checked out a very good route up the hill ….perfect for a return trip in more favourable conditions.

as we thought...it was steep

as we thought…it was steep

On Thursday last week, with a reasonable forecast, (well at least not torrential rain all day) we finally got to go back to Beinn Chuirn and complete our previously curtailed route.  Beinn Chuirn lies on the north side of Cononish Glen, opposite Beinn Dubhchraig and Ben Oss  ….and next door to its much larger neighbour Ben Lui.  It took us about an hour and a quarter to walk along the estate tracks to a point just short of the hill.  A large track leads uphill from Cononish Farm to the entrance of a now disused gold mine.  The tunnel entrance leading under the mountain is sealed but a set of tracks leads out and there are still sheds there …presumably when the price of gold rises they’ll start working again.

Overlooking the corrie, Beinn Chuirn

Overlooking the corrie, Beinn Chuirn

Anyway, our route led up into the dramatic and rocky little corrie and then steeply up by way of a grass and rock ridge until the broad easy angled upper slopes were reached.  It makes for an exhilarating walk, the ground dropping away steeply on both sides and behind you and as we reached the steepest section near the top I felt glad we had turned back the previous winter!  We were lucky this time though,  as despite the dark heavy clouds, the rain kept away and we had good views in what was very clear air.  The top of the hill is littered with boulders and strangely layered outcrops of rock ….very beautiful natural sculptures.   Beyond these was the summit cairn ….the perfect lunch spot with views of mountains in every direction.

 "Monarch of the Glen"

Being watched!

As we ate our lunch though, the cloud started to descend onto Ben Lui and it became pretty obvious that we were in for a soaking.  Our route back did a wide circuit down easy angled grass slopes before a final steep section led back to the track in the glen.  Some way below the summit though, Nita spotted that we were not alone on the hill.  Above us standing on the sky line was a large stag …watching us carefully.   Despite the rain the views were still dramatic  in the dark and gloomy light.   We were back in Tyndrum in time for a pizza at the Green Welly and back home in Irvine at the reasonably respectable time of nine o’clock.  Another great day in the Scottish Highlands and maybe even one that I’ll get a painting or two out of?

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

188-winter-afternoon-beinn-dorain-acrylic-pastel-2011-80-x-80-cm-web

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’

‘Winter afternoon, Beinn Dorain’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 80 x 80 cm

This is the latest of the new 80 x 80 cm paintings and is one of two pieces based on the slopes of Beinn Dorain on a rather drab winter afternoon.  This hill appears most dramatically as you drive north between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy.  From the high point of the A82 just beyond Tyndrum it appears as a very steep sided cone but as you get closer its huge western flanks rise up from the floor of the glen in a long wall that runs all the way to Bridge of Orchy.  Contouring around its base is the railway line that crosses the Auch Gleann in a great curve on viaducts.  This is just a wonderful spot whether you’re driving along the A82, a passenger on the train, or walking the West Highland Way.

“From Ben Lui”

'From Ben Lui', Acrylic & Pastel, 2009, 76 x 23 cm Ref:128

'From Ben Lui'

“From Ben Lui”, Acrylic & Pastel, 3009, 76 x 23 cm

It’s a fairly long walk in to the base of Ben Lui from Tyndrum and it takes us about two hours to get to the end of the estate track and start the actual business of climbing the hill.  But it’s not a boring walk in…it’s quite the opposite in fact, with the track following along the side of the river for a long way and the hills rising on all sides.  For most of the way though, the eye is drawn to the beautiful sight of Ben Lui rising steeply at the end of the glen.  In winter it looks particularly imposing and its great central gully holds the snow for a long time.

This painting is one I did after a fine day clambering up part of the east ridge of this mountain.  It’s an impression of the view we had from a point about half way up the ridge.  In snow, this was a fairly serious undertaking for me and this was the high point of the day…..the summit was still a long way above us.

A day on Beinn Chuirn …..but not on good form

View from the coire Ben Chuirn

View from the coire Ben Chuirn

It’s amazing, I’ve been walking in the hills since the age of ten ….introduced to the mountains by my father shortly after we moved to Wales from Essex in 1969.   I loved these wild places so much that when my sight went bad back in the early 90’s I was still determined to continue these walks despite the practical difficulties.  I’m certainly not an outdoor expert, (I still have much to learn) but I am I guess fairly experienced when it comes to walking in the hills. This said however, every once in a while I have a day when I really struggle, where quite simply I lose my nerve somewhat.  Yesterday was just such an occasion.

What should have been another fantastic day, turned into a difficult and quite stressful one for me.  The forecast for the Loch Lomond National Park area had improved rapidly over the previous 24 hours and although there was much snow falling over in the east of the country, on the west coast it was dry, bright and cold.  We planned to drive up to Tyndrum and walk into Cononish glen as far as the farm of Cononish.  Here the track splits, one continuing up the glen to end below Ben Lui, the other heading up hill to the entrance of the small gold mine at the base of Beinn Chuirn…..the hill we were hoping to walk.

Beinn Chuirn

Beinn Chuirn

There was a dusting of snow on the ground at Tyndrum but most of the hills around had little or no snow on them.  As the path entered the Cononish glen though, we got our first view of Ben Lui …and it was well covered with snow.  It looked superb and all of its 1100m.  Its neighbour, Beinn Chuirn (880m) was though, virtually clear of the white stuff.  It all looked rather strange.  Beinn Chuirn has an impressive coire below its summit and we hoped we would be able to walk up into this and then out onto its rim and around that to the summit cairn.  This looked fairly steep but as we approached the hill above Cononish, Anita and our friend Guy both said it looked OK.

At this point though we left the track and headed across the rough ground aiming for the coire …and things became pretty difficult.  Although there was no snow, the ground was completely frozen in most places, there were numerous areas of solid ice hidden in the grass and heather, some areas were frosted, some in bright sun, some in deep shadow and of course there were numerous rocks.

From the coire, Ben Chuirn

From the coire, Ben Chuirn

Now then, I’ve walked on ground like this plenty of times before and although it’s difficult I’ve not had a problem.  Yesterday however, for whatever reason, I just found it very challenging. I moved exceedingly slowly despite putting on the spiders to help give me extra grip on the icy ground.  Nita and Guy were as always, very patient and guided me excellently, but with the prospect of the ground getting much steeper I really wasn’t looking forward to the ascent.  At this time of year the days are almost at their shortest and I knew I had to get back to the big track in the glen before it got dark.  I looked at the slow pace I was going and realised there was no way that I would be able to get up to the top and back down in time.

We decided instead to carry on into the coire but simply try to get to a point where we could see our route to the top ….then at least we’d know for a future trip.  Well then, we did manage this and the coire was dramatic and the views back out, very impressive …but I was really struggling on this patchwork of surfaces.  After a lunch break we retreated back down into the glen and arrived back at the car as it was getting dusk.  Nita and Guy had enjoyed their day…..I on the other hand, felt rather glum.  I honestly don’t know why I found it so difficult yesterday.  Perhaps though it’s that on this occasion I thought just a little bit too much about what I was doing.

Dusk, Ben Lui from Cononish

Dusk, Ben Lui from Cononish

Walking hills and mountains when you have such a limited amount of sight, really is quite difficult.  It takes a huge amount of concentration, great guides (which I’m lucky to have in Nita and Guy), and at times a little bit of bottle.  Either that or you just need to be completely mad!  I think most of the times I’m out in these wonderful wild places; it’s a little bit of all of these.   Sometimes though, like yesterday, reality cuts in and I find it quite scary!   Next time though I’ll get it right again… with a bit of luck.

Photos by Anita Groves

A perfect October walk

Breaking through the cloud, Beinn Odhar

Breaking through the cloud, Beinn Odhar

It’s been ten months since we were last out on a hill with our friend Guy but on Monday we made up for it in style. I’d been trying to fix a date for a walk with Guy since returning from Germany and when we had to cancel the other week due to a problem with the car, it looked as if his comment earlier in the summer, that we’d probably need our axes and crampons by the time we got out together again, might come true!

By the weekend though the forecast for the week ahead was looking good ….especially in the west of Scotland and so with my paintings for the ScotlandArt exhibition finished and both Nita and Guy not working, we booked Monday as the day. We planned to go back to Beinn Odhar above Tyndrum, but this time instead of just doing the quick walk to the summit and back, we aimed to do a bigger circular walk. This ascended by the same route but returned via a long broad grassy ridge stretching behind the village of Tyndrum. We’d looked at this ridge a few times in the past and this seemed the perfect day to test it out …it’d be more than a short walk …but not too big a day for our rather unfit legs!

Towards Ben Lui

Towards Ben Lui

After meeting Guy at the station at just after half past six in the morning we got to Loch Lomond as it was getting light and things were looking good. Ben Lomond was clear as were many of the other hills and the cloud was breaking higher up. The drive up to Crianlarich along the shores of the loch at this time of year on a fine day is great. The trees are all turning to their autumn colours and with almost no wind, these were all reflected in the loch. The higher tops of the Glen Falloch hills and Ben More were still holding cloud but it all looked very promising …exactly how promising though we were still to find out.

On the ridge to Meall Buidhe

On the ridge to Meall Buidhe

Ben Odhar was clear and its upper slopes were catching the early morning sun as we set off up the West Highland Way out of Tyndrum heading for the base of the hill. It was definitely autumn and there was a real chill in the air and frost on the parked cars. We left the WHW at its high point between Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy and headed straight up the hill. There’s no messing with this route, its steep grassy slopes for much of the way, passing some old mines about half way up. It never ceases to amaze me that people came to work here each day at some point in the past.

Towards-Meall-Buidhe

Towards-Meall-Buidhe

Very quickly as we gained height, a thick blanket of low cloud rolled in and we were soon in mist with no views to ease the steepness of the climb. But it really wasn’t very substantial cloud and we had a feeling that we might just bob out of the top with a bit of luck. And that is exactly what happened. Around about 750m the sun broke through and we found ourselves looking out over a layer of white cloud that stretched south of us. Above was clear blue sky and the sun was very warm. But it’s the views of all the other hills sticking up out of the cloud that really catch the eye …it was stunningly beautiful. We could see the chain of hills from Ben More to Ben Lomond, along with Ben Lui and its neighbours. Strangely north of our hill there was little or no cloud and we could see all the way down into the glen below in this direction.

Just below the summit

Just below the summit

Just above this point the steep slopes ease to a small level section in which a small loch sits immediately below the final steep and boulder strewn section of the hill…..a perfect spot sit and just take in the beauty of the location and these amazing conditions. The final clamber up to the cairn at the top of Ben Odha at just over 900m opened up even bigger views and all of our cameras were working overtime!

Our route back led first down steep slopes SE to another wee loch and then followed the broad grassy ridge in a southerly direction across to Meall Buidhe at 653m. By this stage much of the mist had cleared and so the whole time we were walking in warm bright sun. From Meall Buidhe it was a case of following the ridge to its end and then descending to a bridge over the railway and onto the West Highland Way again. We were now at a point a few kilometres south of Tyndrum and so it was just an easy and very pleasant walk back along the WHW to the car.

This was a fantastic day and the circular route and stunning conditions made for a perfect October walk.