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Glen Coe | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings

Posts Tagged ‘Glen Coe’

Refuelling!

I’m late writing this blog again and am sat in my studio this Sunday with Sea Sick Steve blasting out!  Suffice it to say ….I’m the only one here at the Courtyard so far today…. I might get some complaints otherwise.  Oh well, sometimes its great having the music up loud and in a strange way it can be almost as relaxing as being out in a wild and quiet location.

I think I’ve needed a bit of both of these to be honest, after what has been a very busy and quite stressful last week.  It’s been a good one though and very enjoyable too …but I needed a break at the end.   Our plan had been to get up at 5am and drive up to Glen Coe to walk Stob Dubh, one of the Munro summits of Buachaille Etive Beag.  Trouble was that by the time we got to Thursday evening both Nita and I were completely shattered and even the thought of walking in what must be one of Scotland’s finest mountain ranges couldn’t cut through the weariness.  But we did need to get out and Nita suggested we head back to Beinn Odhar near Tyndrum.  It’s a regular in our hill walking diary as it makes for a great half day but with plenty of steep and ‘up’ to give the legs a short but sharp work-out.  It also had the advantage that we didn’t have to drag ourselves out of bed until 08.30!

View from Beinn Odhar of the old mines

From the old mine workings on Beinn Odhar

Have to admit we hadn’t checked the weather forecast for a couple of days but had seemed to remember that there was a nice splurge of high pressure lurking somewhere close to Scotland and so imagined we’d have fine weather.  We did, but not in that clear blue skies kind of way we had expected.  By the time we were driving along the shores of Loch Lomond it was dark and threatening rain and a good number of hills had cloud shrouding their tops.   It was, however, a rapidly changing scene and in the hour it took to drive the remaining way to Tyndrum we’d had a bit of almost everything from bright sunshine to heavy bursts of rain.  This was to be the story of the day.

Part of the enjoyment of a half day in the hills is that you have time to stop for coffee and a snack before setting out and we did just this at the very popular watering hole that is The Green Welly.  And then we were off, heading up the West Highland Way for a kilometre or so before turning off this popular track and making our way up the steep grassy slopes of Beinn Odhar.  There is no messing with this hill.  You gain height quickly and the views behind you are always impressive.  On Friday this meant a stream of fast moving dark clouds passing by at about 850m and the summits of the larger hills regularly disappearing and then re-emerging into bright patches of sunlight.  For me, this was perfect and I felt a painting coming on almost as soon as we gained some height!

View from Beinn Odhar

From the slopes of Beinn Odhar

This is the hill that has old mine remains high up on the slope and it never fails to amaze me to think that people used to trudge all the way up there  before starting a day’s work.  As we picked our way through the rocky outcrops marking the mine workings the cloud descended and it was time to get the water and wind proof gear out ….suddenly it was cold with that very definite hint of winter being just around the corner.

View from Beinn Odhar

Landscape patterns, from the slopes of Beinn Odhar

We reached the wee loch tucked under the final steep and boulder covered slopes leading to the summit and decided to sit and enjoy this incredibly peaceful spot.  We’ve been here many times before and this really is one of my favourite places in the Southern Highlands.  It is so unexpected and despite this being a Corbett it is a rarely visited spot.  I guess we sat sheltering from the wind and occasional drizzle for about 50 minutes…..just watching the clouds come and go.  This really was a perfect place to re-fuel.

‘A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe’

'A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe', Acrylic and Pastel, 2014, 122 x 61 cm

‘A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe’

‘A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe’, Acrylic and Pastel, 2014, 122 x 61 cm, RP £1400

I completed this somewhat more traditional scene a week or so before I went off to Brazil and so with all that followed, didn’t really get much chance to see it before putting it into my latest exhibition at the Harbour Arts Centre in Irvine. I’m glad to say that it looks good and makes quite a change from the square format I usually use.

The painting is based on a damp misty morning as we drove north through Glen Coe towards Loch Leven and the Mamores. It was such a beautiful view with the mists breaking around this wonderful peak, that I asked Nita to stop so that I could just look and then take several photos. I rarely paint this kind of view but in this case made an exception ….especially as I wanted to create quite a large painting. This piece is 122cm x 61cm and would make a good centre-piece for any large wall.

The painting is part of my “In Sun, snow, mist and rain” exhibition at the Harbour Arts Centre, 114 – 116 Harbour St, Irvine, Ayrshire, KA12 8PZ. The exhibition opens on Thursday evening, 27th November 2014 and runs until January 9th 2015. Any paintings purchased for Christmas can be collected from the gallery a few days before ……check with reception at the Harbour Arts Centre.

I hope you can get along to the exhibition either on the preview, 7pm – 9pm, (all welcome, no invitation needed) or at some point before 9th January. Please spread the word!

‘A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe’

 'A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe'

‘A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe’

‘A damp morning, Buachaille Etive Beag, Glen Coe’, Acrylic and Pastel, 2014, 122 x 61 cm

This is one of my latest acrylic and pastel paintings. Based on a view we had as we were travelling north through Glen Coe a while back, it is rather unusual for me in that it is not only a low level view point but also done in a more traditional landscape format. I have to say that I’ve really enjoyed working on this piece although my partner Anita reckons I ought to paint more scenes of bright sunny conditions rather than these mistier, damp ones! She might have a point ….but I do love watching the mists break over and around the mountains. Anyway, this painting although just finished, will be on show at the Open Studios Weekend at the Courtyard studios this Saturday 4th / Sunday 5th October should you fancy coming down to see it for real. We’ll be open Saturday 4th, 11 am – 5pm and Sunday 5th, 12 noon – 5pm. Rumour has it that one of my colleagues will be having chocolate biscuits in his studio although if Nita and I get there first there may not be many left! You’d better arrive early!

‘Glen Coe’

91s 'Glen Coe', Acrylic & Pastel, 2008, 20 x 32 cm

‘Glen Coe’

‘Glen Coe’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2008, 20 x 32 cm

As you may have seen on my Face Book page, Keith Salmon – Scottish Landscape Artist, I’ve been working on a couple of small paintings that have been about days when the conditions are far from clement.  I remembered this small piece I did back in 2008 after driving through Glen Coe in very misty, damp conditions……and thought it would be perfect for this week’s page.  As I write however, the sun is bright outside and it’s been the finest weather of the summer so far for the last few days.  Of course, I’ve been really busy this week and with Nita working night shifts again for the next few days we’ve not managed to get out in the hills.  Fingers crossed that the fine weather holds for next week ….we’re hoping to go somewhere with the tent and make the most of these wonderful long June days.

‘From the slopes of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, Glen Coe’

22-from-the-slopes-of-sgorr-nam-fiannaidh-glen-coe-oil-pastel-2004-2006-85-x-49cm

‘From the slopes of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, Glen Coe’

‘From the slopes of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh, Glen Coe’, Oil & Pastel, 2004 – 2006, 85 x 49cm,

This is a rather tenuous link to this week’s blog.   In it you’ll read that I’ve just finished a painting that was commissioned by a gentleman we met near the summit of Mam na Gualainn back in August.

The painting shown here however looks out over Loch Leven towards Mam na Gualainn and started off as an oil painting only. About that time I was also experimenting with using pastel with the paint….completing the painting in oil and only once it was dry, working over the surface with an oil pastel. I was pleased with the way it came out in the end and included it as one of the six paintings in my successful 2009 Jolomo Award application.

Spring is here…

 Criese breaking clear of the cloud

Criese breaking clear of the cloud

I always know when spring has arrived ….it is the first day of the year when I go walking…and end up with a sun burnt forehead!  Yesterday was just such a day and the sun block has now been added to the rucksack…..a little late admittedly but at least I’ll be prepared the next time we go out in the sun.

In fact, it didn’t seem like we’d even need sun glasses when we arrived at the parking spot on the A82 between Buachaille Etive Mor and Beinn a’ Chrulaiste ….there was a heavy layer of cloud shrouding all the summits.  That said however, we had set out from Irvine two and a quarter hours earlier under clear skies and only ran into the cloud as we got to Loch Lomond.  Even as we put the boots on and added another layer against the cold easterly wind, a feint glimmer of sunlight appeared and so we had high hopes for better things to come.  Quite just how much better though we’d never have imagined.

Buachaille Etive Mor from Meall Bhalach

Buachaille Etive Mor from Meall Bhalach

We’d been wanting to revisit Beinn a’ Chrulaiste for a while …it’s in a great location, placed as it is between Rannoch Moor and at the heads of Glen Etive and Glen Coe.  In the past though we’d either failed to get to the top and / or the weather had been dreadful.  On the one occasion we did make the cairn and trig point marking its 857m summit (after an ‘interesting’ scramble up the Pink Rib, we’d caught only a glimpse of the fine view before the cloud, sleet and wind arrived again and we had to scuttle back down to the car in the gloom.  On that occasion though, the glimpse did allow us to see the broad curving ridge leading off at first in a north easterly direction and then east over the gentle hummocks of Meall Bhalach.  From that point on I’ve often thought that this would make a fine circuit of this hill …and I wanted to come back and do it on a fine day.

Beinn a' Chrulaiste from Meall Bhalach

Beinn a' Chrulaiste from Meall Bhalach

This was it and we started by walking the old road the couple of kilometres to the Kings House Hotel and then carried on along the estate track marked with a sign post saying ‘Footpath to Rannoch – 12 miles’.  This track led roughly in the right direction for us but after another couple of kilometres we abandoned it and headed across the bog, making for the low end of the Meall Bhalach ridge.  It was hard work picking our way through and over this very rough and boggy ground but as we did, the cloud all around started to lift and break and we got our first views of the dramatic summit of Criese breaking clear ….it looked very dramatic with the large patches of snow on its highest slopes.  The Buachaille though, along with our more modest summit, remained defiantly cloudy.  As we gained height though the cloud became less and more broken and the bright sun and blue skies began to take over.

Ben Nevis from Meall Bhalach ...with a bit of zoom!

Ben Nevis from Meall Bhalach ...with a bit of zoom!

The long summit area of Meall Bhalach is flat and stony and is littered with small lochs, each one now reflecting the blue sky above.  The Buachaille finally shed its cloudy toupee a short while before we reached this top and the views from this point onwards were just incredible.   To the north and east lay the huge Blackwater Reservoir and Rannoch Moor, west the snow topped peaks of the Mamores and behind, the bulk of Ben Nevis.  South, we looked across to the steep craggy slopes of Beinn a’ Chrulaiste …the edge marked by the brilliant white …the remains of cornices.  Behind this, the dramatic peak of Stob Dearg (the north eastern summit of Buachaille Etive Mor) rose into the sky, its huge crags dropping out of sight behind Beinn a’ Chrulaiste.  Wow, what a place to stand..and it was so silent, we couldn’t even hear the traffic down on the main road.

Lunch spot ..overlooking the Blackwater Reservoir dam

Lunch spot ..overlooking the Blackwater Reservoir dam

We spent a long time just wandering around this top, peering into all the wee lochs, many of them teeming with frogs and beetles ….all seemingly awake again after the cold of the winter.  Just below the  small cairn marking the 708m summit of Meall Bhalach, we stopped for half and hour or so and just enjoyed the warm sun and the huge views out to Ben Nevis.  As we did, I heard very faintly, the honks of approaching geese.  They were flying north for the summer and as we sat and waited, they appeared high above us, their white plumage catching the sunlight. They were a talkative bunch and we could hear them long after they disappeared from view …aiming just to the left of Ben Nevis ….perhaps, like all groups out in the wild …they were having a difference of opinion as to which way to go!

A wild and beautiful country, NE from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

A wild and beautiful country, NE from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

Beyond Meall Bhalach, the ridge curves and rising to join Beinn a’ Chrulaiste.  We followed this, picking our way through a more rocky section before getting onto the main back of the hill.  From here the views opened out even more …this time looking out over the magnificent peaks of Glen Coe.  More sitting and gawping ensued at the summit cairn before at just after three o’clock, we decided we’d better make our way down.  For the most part it was a relatively easy descent on steep grass, but there were some steep and stony sections, slippery too with all the water draining into the moor below.  I’m always at my slowest when descending, but even so we were back at the track by the hotel by just after five thirty…just in time to see the sun go down behind the Buachaille ….the perfect finish to a perfect day.

The glen Coe mountains from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

The glen Coe mountains from Beinn a' Chrulaiste

 

The Buachaille, evening

The Buachaille, evening

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‘After a walk in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor’

218 ''After a day in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor', Acrylic & Pastel, 2012, 210 x 148 mm

''After a day in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor'

‘After a walk in the snow, looking back from Rannoch Moor’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2012, 210 x 148 mm

Several years ago we got up very early and drove up to Glen Coe.  It was February I think and there was a lot of snow and ice about ….much of the latter on the roads …which made for an interesting and slow journey.  We had planned to walk up the Devil’s Staircase to its highest point and then walk along the broad ridge as far as we could go in the available time.  As I say, the journey was a long one and with the prospect of a similarly difficult return trip, we didn’t want to be too late setting back.  So then, we’d not be walking far!

The snow, just a few centimetres at the side of the road, quickly became thicker as we gained height on the West Highland Way path and before long we were almost wading through knee deep snow …..considerably deeper in some drifts.  We made painfully slow progress as we picked our way uphill, picking a tortuous route around the deepest snow by following areas where the heather was showing through to the surface.  Eventually we got to the top of the Devil’s Staircase and all about was white …this was a place for snow shoes or skis and after a very enjoyable late lunch admiring the wonderful views around us, we headed back down to the car.  It was still quite early as we drove carefully back across Rannoch Moor and the scenery was amazing.  Indeed, at one point we stopped and got out for a couple of minutes just to enjoy it.

This little painting is not an accurate representation of what we saw but is rather how I remember the very white foreground with the darker, almost purple mountains beyond.  As I said about the last little postcard size painting I did, I’m trying with these small pieces to develop more abstract compositions.  I may take this idea into a much larger format soon.

Back on the hill

'Loch Tulla and Beinn an Dothaidh'

'Loch Tulla and Beinn an Dothaidh'

It had been a few weeks since we last went for a walk and so when we saw the forecast for Sunday ….dry, cold and sunny ….we just had to make the most of it. As I think I said in a blog the other week, we have been planning to revisit Ghlas Beinn, the small hill on the edge of Rannoch Moor …..that we walked back in December 2009. When we were there that year there was no snow at lower levels, just some up on the high tops. It was though, very cold and the peat was frozen as were the moor-land lochs. This time, after a relatively mild week beforehand, it had once again turned cold and we were hoping to find snow even down to low level.

Our first concern though was the state of the roads ….it’s almost a 100 mile drive to the start point on the A82 on Blackmount and after numerous heavy rain and sleet showers on Saturday, the roads were still wet when we went to bed …it seemed likely that everything would be covered in ice in the morning. Strangely though, when I got up at about six o’clock on Sunday morning and stuck my head outside the front door ….there was virtually no frost and the roads were fine. The walk we planned was not a long one, (probably no more than six or seven kilometres) and there was only about 300m of ascent. There was no need for a really early start and after much dawdling around; we finally got away a little after eight. By that time it was well light and the early cloud cover had already broken and the skies were a clear blue ….it looked set to be a really good day.

'The small summit of Ghlas Beinn'

'The small summit of Ghlas Beinn'

I had expected to see snow on the Luss Hills as we drove up the side of Loch Lomond, but they were completely clear. The only snow was up high …above about 800m on Ben Lomond and Ben Vorlich. It was quite mild too …the car thermometer reckons it was 3 C by the side of the loch. What had happened to the real cold that was forecast? As we followed the road past the northern end of Loch Lomond and up Glen Falloch, there was a very noticeable drop in temperature inside the car and by the time we arrived at Crianlarich …it was -1 C outside and there was a covering of snow everywhere ….we’d gone from spring back into winter a just a matter of five or six miles! Everywhere looked beautiful and it looked like we were going to have a good walk.

We reached our start point, at about 10.30 after a short stop at the Green Welly in Tyndrum en route and there were a good number of cars stopped and people were admiring the stunning view out over Loch Tulla. This is a very popular view point and most of the time there is a mobile tea and burger bar parked here ….and someone playing the bag pipes. No such thing on Sunday …I guess mid February is pushing it a bit …though from the look of it, they could have done a good bit of business even so. By this time a fair amount of cloud had bubbled up but it made for much more interesting colours. We simply crossed the road a short distance to the north of the lay-by and headed up the grassy slopes. As at Crianlarich, there was a slight covering of snow everywhere and with the temperature still below or around freezing, it made that wonderful ‘crump’ sound as you walked on it. A short distance from the edge of the road you are blocked by a fence …not marked on the map. Thankfully at a point where it takes a slight bend, there is a small post driven into the ground ….allowing you to step over the wire without risking damaging it.

'A walk in the wild!'

'A walk in the wild!'

The views of course were stunning from the outset especially as some of the bigger hills were illuminated by bright sun. After gaining a few hundred feet in ascent it becomes obvious that you are on a long broad grass and heather ridge ….ahead were a series of small tops …each one slightly higher than the next. On gaining the first of these the views become even bigger and the ground on the west side drops more steeply. We stopped on one of these first knolls and just sat down to enjoy these amazing surroundings …and of course a cup of coffee. One of the reasons for coming back to this place was the hope that I’d be able to develop new paintings from the experience. With the light snow cover everything looked very different from when we were last up there ….and with the constantly moving clouds, the patchwork of light and shade and the corresponding colours ….the scene around us changed from minute to minute. There was a stiff breeze blowing and it was too cold to draw, but I took numerous photos trying to capture some of these colours and patterns.

The ridge becomes more of a gentle switch back until after a couple of kilometres, the final and highest knoll ….the summit of Ghlas Beinn, is reached. For a place where there are no paths, this little top has a good sized and well made cairn ….and so it should. From its very modest summit (something a little over 500 m) the views are quite superb….three hundred and sixty degrees of stunning wild beauty. You look down over vast areas of moor land and loch, but are also surrounded by the higher snow topped mountains. Of course, we didn’t see anyone the whole time we were walking. Nita spotted a large herd of deer grazing below and to the east of us….but nothing else. To the immediate west though we could hear the drone of traffic from the A82 as it crosses the edge of Rannoch Moor heading for Glen Coe …but this was the only slight blot on this idyllic scene. Despite starting late, we had plenty of time and so carried on a short distance beyond the summit ….down past two small wild lochs and on to a final rocky knoll overlooking the expanse of the moor ….what a wonderful place to stand …and all this within a few hours of Irvine.

‘November afternoon, below Stob Coire Raineach’

november-afternoon-below-stob-coire-raineach-acrylic-pastel-2011-80-x-80-cm

'November afternoon below Stob Coire Raineach'

‘November afternoon, below Stob Coire Raineach’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2011, 80 x 80 cm

Here is the latest of my new 80 x 80 cm paintings. We drive over Rannoch Moor and down through Glen Coe a good few times every year and the place never ceases to amaze me. Whatever the weather, the season or time, it always impresses. Sometimes it is almost completely filled with mist and cloud, other times hills rise steeply above you on all sides, clear and bright. Stob Coire Raineach always draws my attention …we did a scramble up the front of this hill a number of years ago with our friend Guy. I remember one especially slippery little set of crags we had to get over …with a big drop behind us..I imagine my language wasn’t too choice at the time …but I made it. This is the second largish painting I’ve done of this hill …and it probably won’t be the last.

Looking ahead to the summer

Beinn Sgulaird

Beinn Sgulaird

Yesterday as I was walking down to my studio in bright warm sunshine I was ‘buzzed’ by a large wasp that was no doubt, brought out by this sudden bit of nice weather.  When I left my studio that evening at just after six o’clock, the sky was still blue and the low sun was creating beautiful colours on the harbour side.  I have to admit this got me thinking ahead to the long summer days …and the prospect of long summer walks.

During May, June and July I can tackle some of the bigger or more remote hills.  Even with my slow pace, there is still enough hours of daylight for me to reach the higher tops, and get back down to the car before dark.  Indeed in fine weather in June you can easily start walking at five in the morning and not have to get back to the car until ten o’clock in the evening …if of course your legs will carry you for that long!  We’ve only been out that long once (when we walked the South Glen Sheil Ridge) but have certainly had a good few days where we’ve been walking for the best part of twelve hours or so …and it’s great.

On the ridge to Beinn Sgulaird

On the ridge to Beinn Sgulaird

Although we have plans this summer to walk a number of hills we’ve not previously visited, there is one hill that I particularly want to get back to …Beinn Sgulaird.  We climbed this back in early June 2007 and it really was a wonderful day.  This hill is situated at the head of Loch Creran to the west of Glen Coe and as such makes for a long drive to get to it from Irvine…..I seem to remember it took us about three and a half hours to get there.  We left very early (about 4.30 am) but had a beautiful drive up via Loch Lomond, Loch Fyne and Loch Awe and we were walking in bright sunshine by half past eight.

Beinn Sgulaird is a large hill, grass covered on its lower slopes but predominantly rocky higher up with a couple of rocky tops to go over before reaching the summit at 937m.  As one brought up on the mountains of North Wales, it never ceases to amaze me just how quiet most of the Scottish hills are.  Even back in the mid /late 70’s when I first started walking in North Wales with my father; many of these fantastic hills were decidedly busy with large eroded paths and sometimes quite busy summits.  I know of course that this is the case with some of the popular Scottish hills and with Munro bagging catching more and more walker’s attention these hills are more popular ..but that said, you can still have a day in the Scottish hills when  you have a mountain all to yourself.

On Beinn Sgulaird

On Beinn Sgulaird

This was the case when we visited Beinn Sgulaird; in perfect dry weather we made our way up the long west ridge to reach the south top.  It was very hot to start with and demanded numerous stops to sit and take in the views out to the sea and the western isles.  From the south top we had an entertaining wander across to the main summit with magnificent views all around.  It was so good that instead of descending directly from the summit we decided to retrace our steps back along the ridge ….and the whole time as far as we could see, we where the only people on this mountain.  We sat on the south top for quite a while again just taking in the peace and quiet and then realised that the sky behind us was getting very dark.  It had been a warm day and the thought that this might be a thunderstorm approaching made us scamper off down the hill as fast as our legs would take us.  Thankfully there was no thunder or lightening but we did get a little wet before we got back to the car at about half past seven in the evening ….wow, what a day.

Anyway, a return trip is very much due I think and this time I’ll be hoping to get a few sketches done and photos taken that I can use for some paintings.

Photos:  Anita Groves