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Posts Tagged ‘Arrochar’

Ghlas Bheinn – what a difference a few months make!

It has all been work, work, and work these last few weeks and so it was great to have an excuse to stop for a couple of days last weekend.  Some friends of ours from Germany are over visiting Scotland for a couple of weeks and have hired a camper van for the duration.  On Saturday we drove up into the Highlands with them and did a gentle tour up to Arrochar, over the Rest and Be Thankful, past Loch Fyne and on through Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy to Rannoch Moor.   Our visitors first few days in Scotland, spent exploring Edinburgh, were spent under cloudy skies and in wet conditions but on Saturday the conditions in the West Highlands were superb ….hot and sunny and the landscape looked at its very best.

vacation in Scotland

Andrea, Rudi and Nita on Ghlas Bheinn

Andrea and Rudi were keen to do some walking so long as it wasn’t a huge mountain hike and so our first thoughts were to take them for a wander along the Bridge of Orchy to Victoria Bridge section of the West Highland Way.  The path climbs a little but not much and reaches the most magnificent view point high above Loch Tulla…..we thought that this would be ideal.  And it would have been except that the annual West Highland Way race was taking part that weekend and as we arrived at the Bridge of Orchy…..the runners were passing through.  There were dozens of cars and vans and numerous people and stewards ….all very exciting but not the peaceful place we’d imagined we’d be able to show our friends from Germany!  We extricated ourselves, the camper van and our car from the mayhem and after a short re-think drove the few miles further on to the big view point on the road leading up onto Blackmount.

vacation in Scotland

Away from the crowds, a perfect summer evening in the West Highlands

We normally park here for our annual winter wander along the undulating little ridge leading to Ghlas Bheinn and this suddenly seemed to be the perfect solution for a walk now.  And so it was, with huge views and a good cooling breeze to keep the midges away, this short walk gave Andrea and Rudi a chance to experience a little bit of the Highlands off-piste as it were ….no paths and no other walkers.  For Nita and me it was great to see this familiar place under beautiful summer conditions with different colours and light.  We got back to the vehicles around half past eight in the evening and drove back to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel for food and refreshment ….a perfect end to a very enjoyable day.  My thanks to the staff at the hotel.  They must have been completely shattered by the time we wandered in at just after nine in the evening ….but they very kindly agreed to fix us some food despite us arriving after they had officially finished serving.  Great service and very friendly and if you are heading up or down the A82, this hotel is highly recommended.

A good start

On the southern edge of the Ochills

On the southern edge of the Ochills

Well then, 2013 is up and running.  It started for us, in grand fashion with a beautiful walk on New Years Day.  We managed some very good walks last year but alas only managed a few with our friend Guy and all of those in the first half of the year.  A mixture of work, family commitments and bad weather conspired to mess up any plans we had and so we’d decided to try and get out for a walk together some time over the Christmas period.  It did seem quite hopeful for a short while but that terrible trio struck once again and before we knew it we’d run out of available days, leaving Guy with the only option of a walk on Monday 31st  Dec and us, a walk on January 1st.  Weather wise we were certainly the lucky ones, there being a brief break in the severe mountain weather, especially over in the east and so Nita and I decided to have a walk in the Ochill Hills to the east of Stirling.

Above the forest

Above the forest

Of course a walk on New Years Day does mean forgoing the usual festivities as a reasonably early start is called for.  That meant getting up at 06.00 but this allowed us an easy drive on empty roads through Glasgow to Stirling and we were in sight of the hills by half past eight and they were looking fine in the early sun …especially with a coating of fresh snow.  We were walking through the beautiful woodlands on the south side of the hills by about half past nine and so had a good six hours of daylight ahead of us.  Our plan was to walk the same route we’d done on a couple of previous occasions, following tracks beneath the side of The Nebbit, then up onto Ben Ever and across to Ben Cleuch, the highest point in this range of hills.  If time allowed we’d then wander over to Ben Buck and back down to join our outward route.

Into the snow, on Ben Ever

Into the snow, on Ben Ever

We really had picked the right day, the light and colours were amazing.  Big dark clouds interspersed with patches of blue sky and bright sunshine coupled with the patchwork of snow, grass and shadow, made everything look superb.   By the time we were well up Ben Ever there were several centimetres of snow underfoot and on the open flat and wind swept top of this hill, the snow had been blown into numerous little ridges like sand on a beach.  Ben Ever is a cold spot.  We’ve walked over it on several occasions and it’s always been freezing cold …it seems to catch whatever wind is around …and some that’ not, I’m sure!  It’s definitely a place for plenty of hats and gloves especially as you just have to stop and take in the views.

The Nebbit from Ben Ever

The Nebbit from Ben Ever

Ben Cleuch looked beautiful in the sun and snow and for the most part it had a feint shroud of misty cloud on its very summit.  This increased as we neared the top and it was a strange cold place when we arrived with weak sun shining through the mist.    We followed the ice covered fence over to the lonely little top of Ben Buck and only then did we get below the mist and once again had the beautiful views.   The snow was melting and the lower slopes of Ben Ever were now an intense yellow green in the low afternoon sun.  We were back at the car by half past three and feeling very glad we’d made the effort to get up early and out ….it had been the perfect start to the New Year.

In the mist near Ben Buck

In the mist near Ben Buck

Our friend Guy had an equally good walk to end his year although conditions were pretty miserable for the most part.  Forecast for the mountains on December 31st were not good…..gale force winds with frequent snow showers creating whiteout.  Definitely not a day for the tops, so instead he chose a low-level route from Inveruglas on the shores of Loch Lomond following forestry tracks over to Arrochar and then the road to Tarbet to catch the bus home.  It’s a very nice route following around underneath a couple of the big Arrochar hills and despite the wet weather he had a good time by all accounts.  That said however, I was a little worried as the route involves crossing a quite large stream.  This isn’t a problem under most conditions but with all the rain and snow over the last few weeks I imagined it might prove problematic.  Well, Guy is not one to easily be beaten back by stream crossings and he did get across this one …but it wasn’t easy with fast flowing water up to his knees by all accounts.  I have to admit that I’d have turned back at this point but then I’ve never been very good with ‘whooshing’ water!  Guy sent me some photos so here is one …..I think he probably deserved a large malt whisky after crossing this!  Oh well, it’s certainly a different way of seeing out the old year.  Hopefully we’ll get to see him on the hills a little more often during 2013.  Plans are afoot to join him in a couple of week’s time for a walk on Rannoch Moor ….so watch this space!

The stream crossed!

The stream crossed!

-o-o-o-o-o-

Beinn Dubh ….or bust!

Near the starting point for Beinn Dubh

Near the starting point for Beinn Dubh

I had a wonderful time in Germany and the scenery around Speyer and the Pfalz was beautiful …the colours especially fine. But ……if there was one thing I missed (apart from my partner Anita of course) …it was the Scottish hills. When we got back to Irvine I was so busy that I couldn’t get out immediately. I’ve six paintings to complete for an exhibition at the Scotlandart.com gallery in Edinburgh at the end of October …so much to do.

I just had to get out though and so we decided that we’d go walking on Saturday. But you know what it’s like – you plan a walk and then the weather forecast is bad. The Friday of course was beautiful but Saturday looked like being grim indeed….very low cloud …albeit rising to between 300 and 500m as the day progressed, and patchy rain and drizzle. Not really a day for views and colours!

The first views of Loch Lomond

The first views of Loch Lomond

But of course, we just had to go. I’m really not very fit after almost five months without much in the way of steep ground and so we decided to head to the Luss hills ….a favourite short walk when we want to get the legs going again. It’s steep enough to know you’re on a hill and wild enough too …and if the weather is good …some great views….not that we expected to see them. This was going to be a chance to hone the navigation skills a little we thought.

We’re lucky living in Ayrshire as it’s only about an hours drive to the start of the Highlands and the southern end of Loch Lomond so we didn’t set out too early and arrived at Luss just after 11am. Amazingly, although there was thick low cloud and driving rain over some of the North Ayrshire hills, by the time we were north of the Clyde the cloud level had risen to around 800m and there were definite breaks with bits of blue sky. It was beautiful and as we followed the path up Beinn Dubh things improved further with patches of bright sun bringing out the early autumn colours and making it feel really quite warm. You quickly gain height and the views out over the southern end of Loch Lomond open out with every step…..giving you a great excuse when your legs are aching to stop and ‘admire the view’ ….which we did on a regular basis! By the time we were near the top even Ben Lomond was clearing spasmodically.

North from near Mid Hill

North from near Mid Hill

One of the things I love about the Scottish hills is just how quiet most of them are. Even on this beautiful Saturday, we only saw two other couples walking …hardly a crowd. It was so peaceful, just the sound of the breeze in the grass and the occasional bird. From the summit of Beinn Dubh the route follows around in a small horse shoe, dipping slightly to give great views down into Glen Douglas before rising again as the broad grassy ridge curves round to Mid Hill. The views NW towards the Arrochar hills are particularly good from here and on Saturday, particularly so with most of them in deep shadow by this time, illuminated occasionally by bright patches of sunlight. It looked fantastic as we started the steep descent into the glen and the wee road back to the start point. We ended our day with a celebratory ice cream back in Luss ….what a great little day!