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Cairngorm wander

The cafe on the hill!

The cafe on the hill!

I had a very good few days at the studio at the end of last week and got back to working on the two large canvases again. The original one that I’d thought finished a few months ago, needs a few things doing to it and so I took the bold step! Still some work to do yet, but I’m feeling happier about it now. I’ve also done more on the second big piece and parts of this are starting to come together now. It’s going to be interesting getting back into the studio later this morning to see them, as I’ve been off for the past three days.

Our route ahead ...from the summit of Cairn Gorm

Our route ahead …from the summit of Cairn Gorm

The reason for this lazy absence? Well, of course, of course, we went walking again! Only for one day of actual walking, but we decided to make the most of this latest patch of fine weather and travel north to the Cairngorms ….taking our new little tent with us again. Prior to Wednesday I’d never done any proper walking in the cairngorms. It was just too far away and although we’d considered it for our two weeks holiday in May, we’ve never actually got there then……we both like having the sea near and so we always go to the North West instead! I’d been on three courses at Glenmore Lodge since 2001 and on these we’d been taken into the big Northern corries and at the end of our winter skills course we’d climbed briefly up onto the plateau …….but this trip was to be our first real outing in these hills.

Wow!

Wow!

We couldn’t really have asked for a finer day for this first little Cairngorm adventure…..there wasn’t a cloud in the sky when we left the campsite at Glenmore at 07.00 and it stayed that way for the rest of the day. We didn’t really have any proper plans as to what we were going to do or where we were going to go, except that we’d walk the main path up to the summit of Cairn Gorm and then take it from there. Not perhaps the best thing to do, but I really wasn’t sure quite how difficult the walking would be up there. The map showed lots of rock and boulders and I wasn’t sure whether the paths marked would be easy to follow or whether it would be very slow progress through acres of boulders. Best then to leave it fluid ……we kind of figured that the view from the top of Cairn Gorm should give us a fairly good idea. I’d thought that if things were very rough and slow we could perhaps make our way over to get a view over Loch Avon before making our way back to the car. If however, things looked reasonably good, we could have a go at getting over to Ben Macdui for a much longer day.

The more challenging route to the plateau ...not for me!

The more challenging route to the plateau …not for me!

The main start point for Cairn Gorm is so high that it doesn’t really take too long to get up to the summit. Not of course, if you don’t succumb to the call of tea and coffee at the cafe at the top of the Cairngorm railway as you pass! We of course just had to stop for refreshment, especially as we arrived there just five minutes before they were due to open. And very nice it was too ….and very civilized, sat there in the cool looking out over Scotland from this high perch on the mountain. Very quickly though, the coffee was finished and we were once again back out in the hot sun and heading up the final slopes on an almost cobbled path to the summit.

At the summit of Ben Macdui

At the summit of Ben Macdui

Wow …..what a view and what a great sculptural cairn! Art on a hill! These hills are high and on a day like this the sense of space all around is strong. More to the point, Ben Macdui looked a long way away but the paths in this popular region looked clear and big and with it still being mid morning, we decided to give it a go.

Well of course, I could ramble on for hours about, the fine views into the spectacular northern corries, of the wonderful little loch perched high on the plateau reflecting the deep blue of the sky and of the boulders and grey dusty approach to Ben Macdui ….but perhaps best just to add a couple of photos and to suggest, if you haven’t already visited this incredible place ….to do so. As we sat amidst the boulders on the flat summit of Ben Macdui at just over 1300m, the views were some of the biggest I’d seen ….so many hills and mountains, such a big area of wild spectacular country …and nearly all of it new to us…..we’ll be back …..despite the boulders!

On the descent

On the descent

It’s an interesting thought though that prior to my first visit to Glenmore Lodge back in 2001 to do the Summer mountain skills course for visually impaired, I’d been very nervous about walking in the hills with my limited sight. That week at Glenmore Lodge gave me so much confidence. I almost certainly wouldn’t be doing all that I do now if it wasn’t for that course and so it was very very good to be back and putting some of there teaching to good use in their local hills.

Landscape mimics painting?!

My two hill guides, Nita and Guy ....wouldn't be on the hills without them!

My two hill guides, Nita and Guy ….wouldn’t be on the hills without them!

As you know, for many years my interest in painting and hill-walking were kept well apart.  My work was based around man-made environments, building sites; townscapes etc and the days spent in the hills were just for fun.   When I moved to Scotland in 1998 however, things started to change.  After attending a very successful mountain skills course for visually impaired people at Glenmore Lodge in 2001, I met up with Guy Hansford (one of the fully sighted volunteer guides on the course) and with his help and that of the folk in our local mountaineering club Air na Creagan, we started tackling more serious hills and getting out into the wilds on a very regular basis.  In February 2002, Guy and I joined 11 members of Air na Creagan on a weekend trip to Corrour and on the Saturday we headed into the hills on a day that was to change my work as an artist.  We experienced a ‘proper’ Scottish hill day …..one that included all four seasons in just a few hours, from patchy sunshine and heavy clouds, to driving snow and back to almost cloudless skies and bright sunshine.  At the end of the day I realised that I just had to start using all these amazing views and scenes as the basis for my paintings …..the rest, as they say….. .   Now, when I’m out walking I’m constantly looking for things that I might be able to use in my paintings.  Hill-walking is not just for fun now …it’s work too!  It’s a tough job but somebody has to do it!

Anyway, you’ve heard all that before, but on Tuesday, we once again joined forces with our friend Guy and headed up to Ben Lomond for a leisurely wander together.  We had picked another perfect day and the misty atmospheric conditions as we started, quickly cleared and by lunchtime we had bright sunshine .  Our walk took us up the normal ‘tourist’ route until we reached  the long almost flat section at around 600m.  It had been a great ascent and we heard lots of different birds as we passed through the lower now partially wooded sections …including a very active woodpecker somewhere close by… ..it was really wonderful.

Landscape mimics painting?!

Landscape mimics painting?!

From the 600m mark though, we left the main path with its walkers making their way to the summit, and instead, cut off down the side of the hill to reach a perfectly quiet and secluded spot by the stream that flows from between the main bulk of Ben Lomond and the Ptarmigan ridge.  This was the perfect lunch spot and being out of the breeze, it was really quite hot too.  A short way further on and we picked up the Ptarmigan path which we followed back to our starting point.  The views out over Loch Lomond from this path are wonderful and on Tuesday the loch was almost completely calm, reflecting the big clouds and skies.  As we looked down I suddenly noticed that  I was looking at something that quite closely resembled the new large 120 x 120 cm canvas I’m working on…….it was quite strange to see!

A proper Midsummer walk

From Sgairneach Mhor

From Sgairneach Mhor

Back, I think it was, in February 2008, Nita and I got up early one morning and drove up the A9 to the DrumochterPass.  We spent the day walking two of the hills to the west, (Gael-charn and A’Mharconaich) and had a very memorable time in the snowy conditions on the tops.  As we stood on the icy summit plateau of the second of these hills, we looked across to the neighbouring hills in the group but it was far too far to go that day and we decided to make a return visit sometime in the future.  That day in February 2008, was for me, a particularly profitable one as, out of it, I created seven paintings ….five of which subsequently sold and just recently, I’ve had interest in one of the remaining pieces.

Summit of Gael-charn

Summit of Gael-charn

Anyway, on Tuesday, Nita and I once again got up at the crack of dawn and drove the three and a bit hours up to DrumochterPass.  Six years after our first venture into these wonderful rolling high hills, we were going back …this time to walk the two we’d looked at; Sgairneach Mhor and Beinn Udlamain.  After last weeks walk near Bridge of Orchy, we were feeling something like fit again and thought these two hills would give us another good walk.

Dark skies at the summit of Sgairneach Mhor

Dark skies at the summit of Sgairneach Mhor

We left the car at the summit of the pass and headed up the glen.  The route to Sgairneach Mhor involved crossing the big stream in the base of the glen and although it wasn’t by any means in spate, there was still a good bit of water flowing and we thought we might have to walk a long way up the glen before we could get across without getting our feet wet!  To our surprise, after about 1 kilometre Nita spotted a large new bridge spanning the stream.  As it is large enough for a vehicle, I don’t think it was put there for the soul convenience of hill-walkers, but what ever the reason, it certainly proved useful and we took full advantage of it.  We gained height after that quite quickly and before long gained the ridge and with it, views down to Loch Gary.  From the forecast we’d seen the day before, we’d been expecting a bright warm day, but alas, the clouds, although above our summits, remained heavy and dark with just an occasional short lived glimpse of the sun. ….it was certainly not going to be a day for using my new sun hat!

Overlooking the Drumochter Pass, evening

Overlooking the Drumochter Pass, evening

Sgairneach Mhor has an impressive corrie and the few remaining small patches of snow made for a good view as we neared the summit.  Beyond this, big expanses of grass led first down and then up onto the second hill, Beinn Udlamain.  This, at just over 1000 m is the highest point in this group of hills and as we picked our way over the stone clad upper slopes we got our first good views out over Loch Ericht to the Ben Alder hills.  This then was going to be it for the day …the original plan being to continue around the end of the glen before descending into it to pick up the path back to the road.

Loch Ericht from Beinn Udlamain

Loch Ericht from Beinn Udlamain

But ……of course, of course, we started looking over to A’Mharconaich and Gael-charn!!  It was late June and the days are wonderfully long and these other two hills looked so inviting.  To start with, we decided to aim for A’Mharconaich as from that summit we could still descend to the track leading back to the car.  We arrived at this summit at about 16.00 and by now the dark clouds were beginning to break and bright patches of sunlight were appearing all around …it looked like it was going to be a lovely evening…..we just had to continue over to the fourth and final Munro….Gael-charn.  By the time we were picking our way over the stony slopes near the summit of Gael-charn, we were both starting to feel a little tired …but the views were now stunning and we were starting to get a real sense of achievement.  All we had to do now was descend the long broad ridge of Gael-charn to another track leading the short distance to the A9 ….and then walk the 4 km back up to the top of the pass to our car.  We arrived there 11 hours and 55 minutes after setting out …phew, but what a day, a real mid summer walk.

For many hill walkers this wouldn’t be thought of as a big day, but for me with my still declining vision, it felt like quite an achievement still.  Its twelve years since I first went to the inspirational ‘summer mountain skills course for visually impaired people’, held each year at Glenmore Lodge.  That course gave me so much confidence and I’m certain I wouldn’t have been out on Tuesday dong that big walk, if I hadn’t attended the course in 2001.  The course is still being run and they’re looking for takers for this year’s course.  So, if you know anyone who is visually impaired who would be interested in a truly inspirational week in the Scottish Highlands, they should contact Glenmore Lodge for further details, or they can contact me and I can put them in touch with the course co-ordinator Norma Davidson.

‘Coire an t’Sneachda, the Cairngorms’

'Coire an t’Sneachda, the Cairngorms'

'Coire an t’Sneachda, the Cairngorms'

‘Coire an t’Sneachda, the Cairngorms’, Oil, Acrylic & Pastel, 88 x 88 cm

There are two reasons for choosing this very wintry scene for my work of the week. Firstly, it’s apparently around 32 C this afternoon and forecast to go to 37C possibly by Sunday. Being used to the slightly cooler temperatures of Irvine, I’m finding it a little hot today and could really do with a nice cold snowy hill to sit on! But the main reason for choosing this painting is that my mind is very much on Scotland this weekend and in particular Glenmore Lodge near Aviemore. This is the centre where I did both the summer and winter mountain skills courses for visually impaired people. I’ve mentioned these courses before I know, and this weekend is really special as it’s the 10th anniversary this year for the course. Norma Davidson the co-ordinator for these courses, has organised a reunion for past course members and the fully sighted volunteer guides. I would have loved to be there this weekend and as I type this, my partner Anita (who has guided me over so many hills) is driving up to Glenmore to join the group.

The weather apparently isn’t so good but I’m sure everyone will have a good time and I’m sure there will be a lot of reminiscing done in the bar …and walks and adventures planned.

I did this painting after attending the one visually impaired winter mountain skills course that was run. We were taken up into the coire to learn some winter survival techniques …digging snow holes etc and we had this amazing view of the ice and snow covered crags. It was a special day for me too as one of the instructors spotted a Snow Bunting in the rocks close by and amazingly it sat there long enough for me to find it with my monocular…..I’d always wanted to see one of these.

Back to the heat and the work now and with a bit of luck a nice ice cold beer later this evening. Best wishes to all those at the reunion at Glenmore Lodge.

For details of the course, check out the Glenmore Lodge website: http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/