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‘Below Ben Lui, a cold, damp spring afternoon’

'Below Ben Lui, a cold, damp spring afternoon'

‘Below Ben Lui, a cold, damp spring afternoon’

‘Below Ben Lui, a cold, damp spring afternoon’, Acrylic & Pastel, 2013, 30 x 30 cm

I tend to get drawn back to the Cononish Glen and to Ben Lui on a fairly regular basis.  The two hour long walk to the base of Ben Lui from Tyndrum is a real pleasure in its own right even if you don’t go on to climb the hill.

This new little painting is based on a day a few years ago when we’d planned to walk Ben Lui by its south ridge.  We’d gone with a couple of friends but the conditions where far from good and they weren’t really kitted out for what higher up turned out to be very cold, wet and snowy conditions.  We’d reached the bealach between Ben Oss and Ben Lui but had met the snow at that point and it really didn’t take much thinking about to decide that the prudent course of action was to head back down.  As we once again reached the end of the main track in Cononish Glen and stood right below the main bulk of Ben Lui, a heavy snow shower swept in.  I remember standing there watching the big white snow flakes fall against the dark background of the hill.  It wasn’t a hugely successful walk but that short moment has stuck in my mind and helped make the cold wet day a memorable one.

A long short walk

Meall Teibh from the summit of Beinn Inverveigh

Meall Teibh from the summit of Beinn Inverveigh

‘What we need’, I said to Nita last weekend ‘is a nice easy short walk to get us back into it after three weeks of coughing, spluttering and very little exercise’.  Well that was the plan anyway, but as so often happens, things didn’t exactly turn out this way.

We had decided that the place to go was Beinn Inverveigh; a long whale back of a hill that rises close to Loch Tulla.  To give ourselves a gentle walk in, we parked the car at Bridge of Orchy and followed the West Highland Way a couple of kilometres to a high point overlooking Loch Tulla.  It was so good to get out again and even though the clouds were thick, dark and quite low, there was a wonderfully atmospheric feel to the day …..and it wasn’t raining.  A couple who had been following us along the WHW passed at this point and continued along the path as it descends towards the Inveroran Hotel …..and they were the only people we saw during the whole of the day…….not bad for mid June.  Our route left the WHW and followed a small path heading towards Beinn Inverveigh.  The cloud appeared to be rising slowly and it was certainly above the top of our modest little hill and as we started heading up steeper ground to gain the end of this long broad ridge, the sun actually came out for a brief spell.  Once the height is gained, it’s an easy wander, the ground being a mixture of grass, moss and rock.  Normally there are many wee lochs and pools up here, but the dry spring had meant that many of the smaller ones were dry, the dark peat cracked into crazy patterns.

Heavy skies above Beinn Inverveigh

Heavy skies above Beinn Inverveigh

The top of Beinn Inverveigh is one of these rocky outcrops that just happens to be a few centimetres higher than all the rest …and is marked with a small cairn.  Another little outcrop about 100 metres away also has a cairn, but which one is the highest is a debatable point ….which ever one you stand by, the other always looks higher …until you go to that one and look back!

On the steep slopes of Meall Teibh

On the steep slopes of Meall Teibh

And that, as they say, was supposed to be that.  We’d taken about three hours to do this leisurely walk and had planned to have an even more leisurely lunch break and then wander back ….an ideal little airing.  Well……despite, in all honesty, feeling a little weary, I started to look over my shoulder to where I could see the dark lump of the neighbouring hill, Meall Teibh…..and it did look very inviting.  I think in some respects, I’m a bit like a gold fish for within a few minutes of sitting down, I’d completely forgotten that my legs had been aching and that I was feeling tired and had planned a nice short easy walk.  I heard myself saying to Nita, ‘we’ve never walked Meall Teibh from this direction …what do you think?’  Nita, realising her short day was going out the window, is, none the less, equally mad and she agreed that it would be a waste of the day not to head on over to the second hill.  Our short day had just turned into a considerably longer one.

Enjoying the views from the West Highland Way

Enjoying the views from the West Highland Way

Getting over to Meall Teibh involved continuing along our present ridge for a further kilometre or so before a steep descent to a broad lonely bealach between the two hills.  A beautiful little loch lies here below the steep sides of the two hills and other than the shrill calls of some birds on the loch and an occasional buzz of an insect; it was completely quiet and incredibly peaceful.  The steep haul up on to Meall Teibh reminded me why I’d planned a short easy day ….my legs complained something rotten, but before long we were sat by another pile of rocks marking the second little summit of the day ….two hours from top to top.

Evening sunlight ....the West Highland Way

Evening sunlight ….the West Highland Way

We now had a lengthy walk back, first along the length of Meall Teibh to reach the small road by the Inveroran Hotel, and then back by way of the West Highland Way to Bridge of Orchy.  It was a lovely walk back though especially as by this time the dark cloud was breaking somewhat and there were patches of bright evening sunlight to enjoy.  We got back to the car about 19.45 …..we’d planned to be back in Irvine eating an evening meal by then ….but what the heck; we’d had a wonderful long short walk.

Getting high, (on a hill)….. the easy way!

On Meall Corranaich ...the first signs of brightness in the sky

On Meall Corranaich …the first signs of brightness in the sky

When we were on Harris earlier this month, the combination of wild weather, very rough terrain and my very poor sight, meant that I found the walking there very difficult.  As I’ve said before, when you walk in the hills with a visual impairment, the mental effort is almost as tiring as the physical exertion and so for our first walk since returning from the holiday, I was looking for something during which I could to some extent, relax a little.  The obvious choice would have been to head back to the Luss Hills, but I had a fancy to get up high and with a bit of luck, get some big extensive views.

The perfect lunch spot near the summit of Meaall Corranaich

The perfect lunch spot near the summit of Meaall Corranaich

After trawling through my memories of walks in the Southern Highlands, I remembered a walk I had done probably 8 or 9 years ago with a group from our local club Air na Creagan.  On a fine summer day we’d done a relatively easy circuit over two Munros that lie close to Ben Lawers, Meall Corranaich and Meall a’ Choire Leith.   The first of these, Meall Corranaich, is quite high, its summit cairn perched on a flat grassy top at 1069 m ….it would offer the big views I was looking for and both are almost completely grass covered …giving easy and therefore for me, fairly stress free walking.  The final thing going for these two hills was their location.  They can easily be reached from the high point on the single track road that leads past the site of the old Ben Lawers visitor centre and on over into Glen Lyon.  As the high point is around 500 m, even the walk to the top of Meall Corranaich doesn’t involve vast amounts of ascent …..as I say, getting high without all the effort!

Guy at the summit of Meall Corranaich

Guy at the summit of Meall Corranaich

So then, that was our plan for Tuesday and all we needed was for the better of the two weather forecasts we seen, to be right.  One of them had predicted cloud on the tops much of the day, the other …from the MWIS, had predicted that any low cloud would lift and break with an eighty per cent chance of a cloud free top…..we went with this one!!

We asked our friend Guy if he’d like to join us and as he’d been doing quite a lot of low level walks recently, (checking out a route for some cadets he works with) he jumped at a chance to get up on the tops again and was waiting to be picked up at Kilwinning station almost as soon as we’d asked him!

On top of the world... ..well, almost!

On top of the world… ..well, almost!

It was, quite simply, a perfect little day.  The MWIS forecast proved correct and although when we’d started walking there were dark clouds covering all the main summits in the area, within an hour this had lifted and we could see our route ahead.  The air was very clear and the views even to me were extensive.  Needless to say, we took our time …stopping occasionally to sit and look and enjoy this spectacular scenery.  The mountains still had patches of snow on them and this added to the grandeur of the scene.  As we reached the main ridge leading up to the summit of Meall Corranaich, the views became even bigger, looking out over Loch Tay and nearer to hand, across a high bealach to Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers …the latter being just a few feet short of the 4000 foot mark.  We avoided the path leading directly up to the top of Meall Corranaich and instead headed for it via a very steep slope of grass and stones, but one that was sheltered from the wind and was therefore much more pleasant.  As I neared the top, puffing and sweating ….I glanced behind me to see Guy stomping up the slope ….and I suddenly remembered that he is now 80 …and still has more ‘umph and go’ on the hills than I do!  As my friend Norma always says about Guy…. ‘what a man’!  I hope I’m still climbing hills with as much energy and enthusiasm as he has, when I’m 80.

Descending from Meall Corranaich

Descending from Meall Corranaich

Our efforts were rewarded at the top by the sun coming out and big patches of blue sky emerging all around …it was spectacular.  We had another long break sat out of the wind just enjoying the place.  After a bit, we decided that this top was enough and instead of carrying on to the second hill, we’d just have a relaxed walk back.  This was just the kind of day I’d wanted.