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Pucks Glen – a short walk…..or an adventure?!

We’ve had a good year of walking so far and have reached the top of a number of hills that, with my still deteriorating bit of sight, I’d started to think I may not get to.  Standing at the tops of Lochnagar, Stuc a’ Chroin and Ben Macdui, has given my confidence a bit of a boost this summer and I’ve been feeling positive despite struggling more with my mobility both around town and on the hill.

On Wednesday however, I was brought down to earth with a bit of a bump, although mental, not physical!  We’d been invited to join some friends who were staying in a lodge at the southern end of Loch Eck, not far from Dunoon.   We had no real plans ourselves as we’d never really explored the area before and so just turned up with fairly basic gear…. waterproofs and walking boots…..just in case.

When we’d left Irvine it had been pouring down with rain and although it had eased as we crossed the Firth of Clyde on the ferry, it was still pretty damp when we arrived and not looking particularly promising weather-wise.   It certainly wasn’t a day for a big or high level walk and our friends suggested a short wander over to Pucks Glen a few kilometres from the lodges.  Sounded perfect and with the cloud starting to break from around the steep sided hills above Loch Eck, the five of us set off.  After following a gradually rising track for forty minutes or so, we reached a sign pointing to a smaller path leading up through the trees ….Upper Pucks Glen ….and headed up that.  Despite it being a very good path this was immediately more difficult for me as the light under these fairly dense woods, was limited.  On this kind of path it wasn’t a problem especially as Nita was in front of me to point out any slippery tree roots etc.   As the path gained height the ground started to drop more steeply away on our right and before long we reach the stream that has formed Pucks Glen.   It wasn’t big and despite the morning rain, it wasn’t very full either, but it dropped away down the hillside steeply and the wee path that followed down beside it immediately screamed ‘problem’ to me.  I really struggle walking down narrow paths by streams especially so when the light is poor…..in these conditions it was really dark for me and so I said I’d have to return by our outward path …I wasn’t going to risk trying to get down that way.  Nita and Evelyn said they’d go back with me and we left Stewart and Holger to take the more direct route.  We kind of figured we’d meet them back on the main track.

Well ….even getting back down the good path was quite slow progress for me.  When we reached the top of the ‘Lower Puck’s Glen’ path however, (with the bit we could see, looking reasonably good) we decided we might as well go back that way.  After just five minutes I was starting to have my doubts though.  It was in general a very good path, but it was just so dark for me in the depths of this narrow tree filled little gorge.  Thankfully all the steep sections had steps and handrails but even so much of the path was right by the stream.  For a large part of this walk I couldn’t see much at all and relied on Nita’s great guiding skills, (honed over years on the hills) to get me down through this amazing little glen.  It was for me really difficult ….probably the most difficult and challenging thing I’ve done for a good few years!   I have to say, that I was very glad to hear Evelyn say we’d reached the main track at the bottom of the glen ….phew!  I was hot and more than a little stressed!!!

It was quite an adventure although it’s a shame Nita didn’t really get to see this amazing little glen either as she spent all her time keeping me on the path.  She did take some photos as we descended but it was so dark that my little camera couldn’t cope with the conditions either, (I have some sympathy for it)…..but here is one photo that came out reasonably well.   It’s spectacular and well worth a visit.  When we met up with Stewart and Holger, they said that the upper glen path was even steeper but without the helpful handrails in places…….definitely not for me!

Pucks Glen near Loch Eck

Pucks Glen near Loch Eck

Of course, after that we just had to go for a beer or two.  By this time the rain had all gone and the hills were clear and looking fabulous in the afternoon and early evening sunshine.  We had planned to catch the late ferry back but forgot to check the time of the last ferry.  We arrived at the slipway at about 22.20 to find it deserted and in darkness ….oooops!  The last ferry had been at 22.00.  Nothing for it but to have a good laugh, eat the emergency packs of crisps Nita  had packed for just such circumstances  ….and then start on the lengthy drive home back past Loch Eck, up and over the Rest and Be Thankful, down along the side of Loch Lomond and over the Erskine Bridge.  We arrived home in Irvine to find a very hungry cat at about 00.30!   It had been a great day ….an adventure out of no-where!

Spring colours

A remnant for the old Caledonian Forest

A remnant for the old Caledonian Forest

What a difference a few days make.  After last weeks very grey and cloudy walk on Tinto, this week we saw the Scottish landscape at its very best under almost clear blue skies.  The colours everywhere were stunning and although we only walked a fairly small hill we managed to spend over nine hours in the process.  It was such a stunningly beautiful day that it just demanded that we keep stopping to look and take in the scene.

I really love this time of year with winter still very much around, (we set off with frost covering everything and the bigger hills white with snow) but summer closing in rapidly.  It was great too that even setting off from Irvine at just after 06.00 there was light in the sky and the sun rose over the Glasgow sky-line as we crossed the Erskine Bridge heading north.

We were making for Tyndrum but not for Meall Odhar which had been our original target last week, but for its neighbour across the glen, Fiarach 652 m.  We’ve never walked this hill and it was only last week while pawing over the map with my magnifier looking for the route up Meall Odhar that I spotted it and started looking for a route to it too.  It’s basically the high point of a large area of wild upland ground  that is surrounded on all sides by the higher hills, Ben More, Ben Challum, Beinn Dubhchraig and Ben Lui …to name but a few.  It’s a fine location that just demands a perfect day ….and what better than a clear, cold early spring Wednesday in March?

Ben More from Fiarach

Ben More from Fiarach

As we wanted to stretch our legs a bit more this week, we decided to park the car in the village of Tyndrum and walk back along the West Highland Way the few kilometres to the big bridge crossing the river flowing out of Cononish Glen.  This is a beautiful little section of the West Highland Way ….a proper little footpath the meanders its way along through mixed woodland and alongside streams .  The views from this path alone were superb and we got good views of the hill we were going to walk.  From the river bridge we left the WHW and followed an estate track that lead over the railway and then lead around the flanks of Fiarach for a couple more kilometres to a large area of conifer plantation.  On the way it went through a fabulous area of the old Caledonian forest that made this truly highland scene even more so.

At the start of the plantation it was simply a case of making our way up the open hillside, at first along side the trees and then climbing above them.  I have to say that I’ve never been too impressed with these conifer plantations but on this occasion I was pleasantly surprised.  We stopped level with the top corner of the plantation and sat down in bright sun to catch our breath, give the aching calf muscles a rest and to take in the views.  As we did we were aware of all of the bird song coming from the dense trees to our left.  One bird in particular ….we think it was probably a Thrush, was singing at the top of its voice and it made the place even more special.

Nita at the summit of Fiarach

Nita at the summit of Fiarach

A little higher up and the steep slopes eased and we came into the first big patches of snow.  It’s a hummocky area of grass, moss, small crags and numerous little lochs and pools.  The biggest of these, Lochain Fiarach, was almost completely frozen and had varying amounts of snow lying on it …where it was just ice, it was a beautiful shade of blue, green, and grey and this turned paler to white around the edges ….it reminded me of the ‘white’ sandy beaches we saw last year on the west coast of Harris.

Despite the generally featureless nature of the ground up here, the summit itself was a surprise ….set atop a craggy little spine that rose 30 or 40 metres above the rest of the moor.  It made a great setting and a wonderful place to stand and take in all the bigger snow capped peaks around.  The nearest of these, Beinn Dubhchraig looked particularly massive and Nita could make out three tiny figures plodding up the heavily snow covered slopes towards its summit.  We  stopped numerous times to sit and look and enjoy the colours, textures and patterns …and were impressed  to find two other visitors to this little hill ….a pair of what we think were Golden Plovers.

The summit of Fiarach from Lachain Fiarach

The summit of Fiarach from Lachain Fiarach

This really was a fine day …..it had a similarity to the wee hill, Ghlas Bheinn on the edge of Rannoch Moor that we tend to visit most years.  I definitely think we’ll be back to Fiarach again next spring.

A snowy day in the hills and some computer blues

''In the Luss Hills''

”In the Luss Hills”

Well then we finally got out for a hill walk on Thursday ….the first one since our trip to Rannoch Moor at the end of November.  Since then the weather seems to have been so bad with just one gale after another.  What days were fine seemed to coincide with either Nita or I having to work.  Anyway, on Monday we checked the mountain forecast and it seemed like Thursday would be the best of a bad bunch …so we booked it!  We also decided to ask our friend Guy if he’d like to join us as we hadn’t seen him for ages.  Interestingly he’d been planning to go to the same place …the Luss Hills, today, (Saturday) but quickly changed his plans in order to join us.

By the time Thursday arrived, the forecast had deteriorated somewhat with heavy rain and higher up, snow showers predicted for the morning and afternoon. ….and it didn’t disappoint!  We decided to go early to avoid the traffic jams on the Erskine Bridge and we arrived at Luss at just after half past seven in the morning.  Of course it was still almost completely dark but we were reckoning on the small cafe shop opening at 8 o’clock so that we could buy ourselves a coffee and sandwich while waiting for it get light.  Alas, the wee shop was closed for a refit and we wandered back to our car dejected and devoid of nourishment!

By the time we started walking it was just light but heavy clouds hung quite low everywhere and it was raining hard.  Everywhere was awash and the steep first section of the path leading up Beinn Dubh was more like a stream than a path.  Even so, as soon as we got above the trees the views in gloom out over Loch Lomond were great ….and very atmospheric ….most of it falling on us I think.  There was cause however for optimism as every now and again breaks appeared in the clouds and we could see patches of blue sky and brightness.  After reaching about 300 m the rain quickly turned to snow and the steeper sections of the hill ahead of us were white….looking good against the dark skies.

''In the Luss Hills''

”In the Luss Hills”

Suffice to say that none of us were feeling particularly fit having done little or no walking for almost two months.  We moved very slowly up the hill but the regular stops allowed us to enjoy the increasingly fine views in increasingly bright and sunny conditions ….it really was a joy to see.  We stopped somewhat short of the summit of Beinn Dubh but at one of the finest view points on the hill at I think, a little under 600m.  The wind here was very strong and the snow freezing at this level, the wind chill was quite pronounced ….when I took my mitts off for a few minutes to take photos my fingers quickly became numb!  We braved the wind and stopped and enjoyed the fine views across the loch to Ben Lomond ….while sipping hot coffee ….then headed back down.  As we went we were enveloped in a big snow shower that swept in over the hill from the west.  It was very impressive and I’m thinking of trying to do a painting about it soon. Must admit the walk did me a lot of good and I’m looking forward to getting out again hopefully one day next week.

''In the Luss Hills''

”In the Luss Hills”

Back to normality yesterday and the joys of computers.  I’ve just changed my screen magnifier / screen reader software to Zoom text 10 as my previous software was causing so many problems.  However I really also needed to upgrade my main computer.  It had been using XP but this was getting a little out of date and so I thought I might as well go the whole hog and get it changed over to Windows 7.  I collected the machine from the shop where the new software had been added and all seemed fine ….until I tried to get onto the Internet.  Then it just kept saying ‘no Internet connection available’!  Nita spent ages trying to work out what was wrong but at the moment I still can’t get onto the Internet on that machine and so I’m using Nita’s laptop to write this.  I haven’t used it for ages so I’m struggling to find my way around it.  Could be you’ll never get this blog!

Beinn an Lochain – a view from the top

'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

Apparently, (although don’t quote me on this) Beinn an Lochain was once thought to be a Munro …but with the introduction of better measuring devices it was found to be short of the magic 3000 ft / 914 m.  That said, at 901 m it still rises above many of its Arrochar neighbours and more importantly, is probably one of the best of the group.  Its fine northerly ridge has enough rock, steepness and drops to make you feel like you’re climbing a proper mountain (well, it certainly does if you can’t see where you’re putting your feet that is!).

The problem though for me with this hill is that although I’ve teetered my way up it’s ridge three times in the last ten years….I’ve never seen the upper section of the hill properly, let alone had a view from the top.  Twice we’d been there in thick cloud and rain.  The third attempt was with Air na Creagan back in early winter a number of years ago and although it started off clear, by the time we were three quarters of the way up …it filled in and the fine views with all the hills dusted in snow, had gone.

'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

Every time we’ve driven over the Rest and Be Thankful I’ve looked up and thought that I must climb Beinn an Lochain again …but on a clear day.  Apart from just wanting to see it, I really wanted to get some photos, perhaps even some quick sketches of the ridge …they might be good for a new painting.  So then, on Tuesday, with both Nita and I working Wednesday and with a good forecast, we were looking for a ‘short’ day …nothing too arduous – Beinn an Lochain seemed the perfect place to go.

The trouble with forecasts that say ‘60% chance of a cloud free Munro’, is that I always forget this also means that there’s a 40% chance of there not being a clear top!  When we set off from Irvine at 06.30 there was blue sky above, but by the time we were going over the Erskine Bridge we were under a heavy slab of dark low cloud and on reaching the southern end of Loch Lomond ….well, the hills were shrouded in dark grey mist right down to about 600 m.  Blast!  Already my chance of finally getting a view from the top of Beinn an Lochain were looking bleak, but it was early and so perhaps in time this blanket of cloud would lift and break.  So, what to do?  It didn’t seem much point to start walking straight away ..it wasn’t going to clear that quickly and so instead we stopped at the car park at Luss and went and got ourselves an early morning cup of tea from the wee shop there.  This is a well stocked little place and was open when we got there at 07.45, so pretty useful as a watering hole when you’re heading for a hill.  There’s toilets next door too, so what more do you want?!  A view possibly …or that was probably the opinion of the group who arrived on a coach while we were drinking our tea and looking at the cloud.

'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

It didn’t look too promising but there were just a few minor breaks and bright patches by the time we arrived at the car park at the top of the Rest and Be Thankful.  We decided to stall further …and put the seats back and had a kip for a while.  On waking, it did look a little better and there was nothing for it but to get the boots on and go.  We’d already ‘killed’ almost two hours, we couldn’t leave it any longer.

Our plan was to traverse the hill, climbing it by its northerly ridge and descending its steep grass and crag covered southerly flanks.  This involves walking the road from the car park past Loch Restil to a point where you can cross its out flowing stream and pick up the path that leads all the way up the ridge to the summit.  Thankfully the stream wasn’t full and crossing it was easy (not always the case) and we were soon on the rough path that picks its way up the ridge.  This involves clambering up many rocky little outcrops as the path gains height quickly.  We weren’t the only thing going up though, ….looking across the glen we suddenly realised we could see the summit of Beinn Luibhean and even Beinn Ime at just over 1000m was now almost clear!  It was still grey but things were improving fast.  After a while we reached the first short level (ish) section and got a glimpse of the top.  The steep rocky sections ahead look quite impressive without cloud and I had to make myself remember that despite their appearance, the path did wind its way through and around the crags.  It was certainly a challenge in places especially where the narrow path went along the edges of the ridge …not places to misjudge the width of the path!  By this stage we even had some weak sunshine and the mountain looked superb.

'On Beinn an Lochain'

'On Beinn an Lochain'

The final steep section is very impressive passing a large and imposing crag before arriving suddenly at the summit cairn.  We had finally done it …we were at the top of Beinn an Lochain and had a view – albeit a rather dark one.  The sun had been brief and the cloud although now higher, was dark and quite heavy.  A woman we met near the summit said she’d heard rumours of thunder and lightening for the afternoon ….and it certainly felt like it.  Not really a place to sit and do a sketch or two but I had a good look around and took some photos ….and then we were off.

Our route took us off the immediate summit and past a wee loch that reflected the hill beautifully.  After that, it was a steep descent down grass slopes, avoiding crags.  The grass was long and there were masses of flowers growing too, including numerous flowering thistles …beautiful but not good if you sat down in the wrong place! It was a tiring descent and a hot and sweaty one too.  The skies had become very dark and threatening but we got back to the car before any serious rain fell.  It was a wonderful day and one from which I hope to get a few paintings in the future.  If you haven’t been up this hill….well, I strongly recommend it.  For fully sighted folk it’s a relatively short day, for those who can’t see too much, it’s quite a challenge.