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Visually impaired people see more …..sometimes!

Clearing weather and bright colours, below Goat Fell, Arran, Ayrshire, Scotland

Clearing weather and bright colours, below Goat Fell

Sometimes,………there really are advantages to being a visually impaired hill-walker!  Many times I have to admit, there are not!

Yesterday Nita and I headed over to the Isle of Arran to walk Goat Fell, ( the highest point of the island’s magnificent mountains).  A couple of days ago the mountain forecasts seemed to suggest that there was a chance that the cloud would be so low that the higher tops would break through them.  This is a magnificent sight to see and one that we’ve been lucky enough to experience on a couple of occasions in the past ten years. I’d often thought that seeing the dramatic rocky peaks of Arran in such conditions would be very special. It was of course a complete gamble and the chances were that we’d just have a walk in low cloud ….which for the most part we did.

Below Goat Fell

Below Goat Fell

We went across on the first ferry, arriving in Brodick at just before eight o’clock.  It certainly looked promising as we looked across the bay to see a very low thick line of cloud shrouding Goat Fell and I immediately started to imagine the summit being clear and in bright sunshine.  We did our normal thing of walking along past the golf course and up the beach to get to the start of the main ‘tourist’ path up Goat Fell..  It’s a beautiful little walk especially first thing in the morning and it gets the legs going before the need to do any ‘up’!  The path climbs up through the edge of the Brodick Castle grounds before emerging onto the open hillside at a point where for many years a small foot bridge had crossed a small but fast flowing stream.  At this point we were somewhat dismayed to find that a new ‘land rover’ track had been built from the estate to the bridge ….and said bridge had been replaced with a much larger one suitable for vehicles ….a small turning space made on the other side of the stream.  We presumed that this was to help during the stalking season ….the main path up the hill passes through the deer fence by way of a large gate just a short distance further on.

Autumn colours, late afternoon near Brodick Castle

Autumn colours, late afternoon near Brodick Castle

Anyway, we didn’t really think too much about it and continued on our way.  The cloud level though had risen somewhat and our hopes of getting above it at the summit now seemed very unlikely.  It was good to get out again though and even though I was finding it difficult picking my way up the boulder strewn path in this rather gloomy light, I was thoroughly enjoying myself.   We entered the cloud just below the point where the path reaches the main shoulder of the mountain.  There was a brisk cold wind blowing and it encouraged you to keep moving!   From this point the going gets steeper and the path rockier before you emerge at the summit.  In fine weather this is a breath taking moment especially if it’s your first visit to the summit of Goat Fell.  Yesterday however we could have been anywhere, the cloud was quite thick and I certainly didn’t feel like it was going to clear.  It was cold too and after a brief stop for a summit picture we decided we might as well just head back and try and find a spot out of the wind for lunch, lower down. It was surprisingly busy despite the conditions and many people passed us both on the way up and down.  My poor sight makes descending a slow and difficult thing and everyone seemed to go rushing past us.  By mid afternoon we were back below the shoulder of the hill and most of the folk who had walked to the summit had long since got back to their cars.

Back to sea level!

Back to sea level!

At this point though, the cloud suddenly started to lift and break and very quickly the scene around us transformed from a dark and sombre one to a beautiful autumn afternoon with bright patches of sunshine illuminating the vivid autumn colours of the moor land around us.  We found a spot out of the breeze and sat down to enjoy the warm afternoon sun, the beautiful views across to Beinn Nuis and the peace and quiet.  This lasted for about half an hour and was then broken by the noise of an engine.  A good way below us Nita said she could see a strange vehicle moving quite quickly and as we watched it was driven at speed across the boggy moor-land below the steep flanks of Goat Fell.  The vehicle and it’s occupants came to a sudden stop about one hundred metres from us ….and everyone got out.  I can only hope that whatever the reason for this off road jaunt, it was a good one as its wheels had scarred the peat, grass and flora of this wild spot.  Perhaps though, this was something to do with the local mountain rescue group…it would certainly get them up the lower slopes of the hill quickly.  Anyway, whatever was going on, we left them to it and continued down the path to the new bridge …where we could plainly see the tracks of the vehicle at the point it had driven onto the moor.

Goat Fell from the beach, late afternoon

Goat Fell from the beach, late afternoon

If there was a genuine and urgent reason for this kind of off road vehicle use, then fine, but it would be a great shame if this new track and bridge are just encouraging more irresponsible off road driving enthusiasts

The afternoon was now a very fine one and we had a very pleasant wander back down through the woods to the beach.  The trees in their autumn colours looked stunning in the late low sun.  As I made my way back along the beautiful beach I reflected on the fact that my visual impairment had so slowed us down that we were still on the mountain when the weather finally improved ….I’d seen more than all the fully sighted walkers who had rushed past us and were no doubt in the pub by the time the sun came out …..smug or what?!

Heading for Goat Fell on the 7am ferry…

'Heading for Goat Fell ...on the 7am ferry'

'Heading for Goat Fell ...on the 7am ferry'

Talk about leaving it a bit late, we took the decision to head over to Arran for a walk up Goat Fell yesterday, after I got back from the studio on Wednesday evening. Not the greatest of preparations but thankfully we had some bread rolls in the freezer and a supply of Lucozade …it wouldn’t be the best packed lunch in the world but good enough.

It’s been pretty miserable up here in Scotland for the last few days with rain and high winds but as we put the rucksacks into the car for the short drive to the ferry …at about 6.15am …there was just enough light to see that the sky was virtually cloud free …it was looking good.

As you may have noticed from the blogs, we haven’t been out on the hill for a good few weeks now.  I’ve just been so busy at the studio that with one thing and another …coupled with many days of low grey cloud and rain …well we just never managed to get out.  I’ve been wanting to go and walk my 50th Corbett but still haven’t decided which hill that will be and so on Wednesday evening we just wanted somewhere to go that would stretch the legs and give great views …what better place to go than Goat Fell over on the Isle of Arran.  On a clear day the views from its summit must be some of the best in Scotland and for us living just across the water in Irvine; it has the advantage of virtually no driving, and the luxury of getting breakfast during the 55 minute crossing between Ardrossan and Brodick.  You arrive in the picturesque little town of Brodick and can see many of the big Arran hills (including Goat Fell) rising just to the north.  You don’t even have to catch a bus to the base of the hill …there is a wonderful path that picks it’s way between the golf course and the sea all the way to below Brodick castle where the main ‘tourist’ path starts and the wonderful Arran Brewery has it’s home.

'On Goat Fell'

'On Goat Fell'

Everything looked so beautiful as we walked along the beach the final few hundred metres to the start of the Goat Fell path.  The sea was an intense blue and the trees were just starting to take on that autumn colouring.  The path picks its way up and around the edge of Brodick Castle gardens ….heading through a mixture of trees and habitat.  After a while it reaches a small fast flowing stream with a wee bridge over it.  I can remember a few years back when this bridge was just a fairly narrow affaire with no hand rail …I used to shuffle my way over it, worrying that I’d miss the edge and end up getting a soaking!  No worries now …as I say, there’s a proper little bridge in place.  About this point you get to the edge of the trees and the path turns and runs across a fairly level section heading for the shoulder of the hill.  We had seen just two other folk at this time and it was so peaceful as we wandered along the stony path.  Already the views to the south were impressive …but there was also a lot of very low cloud out there and we worried that this was the ‘weather’ that the forecast had said was due in later that day …arrived early as it were.

Once onto the ridge the path is nearly all rock …hours and hours of time and hard work moving greet stones and boulders into place, utilizing the natural outcrops and picking a clever line, have created a fine and safe path all the way to the summit.  You don’t have to follow it of course and you can clamber your way up and through the granite boulders and outcrops if you choose.  The views just get better and better as you gain height but the best is left to the last on this hill.  As the angle suddenly eases you arrive on a boulder and slab strewn summit and suddenly you get the most amazing views…the whole of the rocky, Arran mountains stretch out before you, the narrow ridges, rocky pinnacles and bright sand screes. . .there is just so much to look at.  All around you can see the sea and out to the east is the dark line of the main and Ayrshire.  Further to the south Nita pointed out Ailsa Craig.  We had reached the top just before midday and so it seemed like the perfect spot for lunch.

East from Goat Fell

East from Goat Fell

As we sat looking out over the deep trough of Glen Rosa, the very low broken cloud we’d seen earlier to the south, started to feed in on the breeze.  It bubbled up beneath us heading north up Glen Rosa before briefly shrouding the fine pointy summit of Cir Mhor.  It came and went creating a constantly changing view, different colours, tones and patterns.  The strange thing was that for almost an hour as we watched this wonderful changing show …the cloud never enveloped us on the summit of Goat Fell …the highest point on the island.  Indeed, we were sat in bright sunshine much of the time we were watching the flowing and breaking clouds ….quite amazing.  There was a good few folk on the summit by this time …all transfixed by the scene.  After about an hour the cloud faded away and we were left with an almost cloud free sky.  The ridge over to North Goat Fell looked tempting (we first scrambled our way along and over its stumpy pinnacles way back in 1988 during our first ever holiday together), but we decided instead just to have a leisurely return in the sun.

From Goat Fell ...the summit of Cir Mhor above the cloud

From Goat Fell ...the summit of Cir Mhor above the cloud

As I’ve said before, the Isle of Arran Brewery is situated right at the start of the path up Goat Fell, and as we reached it on our way back …having cut it too fine to catch the 16.40 ferry, we stopped by and bought ourselves a couple of bottles of Arran Blonde from the brewery shop.  They have seats and tables outside and so long as you open the bottles yourself …you can sit and drink them in the evening sun …which is what we did.  Within 15 minutes several other walkers, arriving back after a hot day on the hill, stopped and did like-wise.

A gentle amble back around the bay and just time for some chips before the ferry arrived …then coffee and a kip before arriving back in Ardrossan a little after eight in the evening …what a wonderful day.

A local fisherman ...near Brodick

A local fisherman ...near Brodick

Interestingly on Wednesday evening I also received an email inviting me to take part in a group exhibition at the Dick Institute in Kilmarnock…at the end of January.  They asked if I might have any paintings I could include that were local to the area.  I’m thinking I may well be able to do a couple of pieces based on the incredible views we had while at the summit of Goat Fell.  Anyway, more details about this exhibition as and when I know them.

Finally, if you’re reading this and live in Ayrshire and have never made the trip over to Arran …well then …do go and visit.  It is a magical place with something for everyone and as I found yesterday, when you’ve been working hard and are tired and worn out …a day on the island relaxes and restores.