counter hit xanga
hill walking | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings

Posts Tagged ‘hill walking’

Cairngorm wander

The cafe on the hill!

The cafe on the hill!

I had a very good few days at the studio at the end of last week and got back to working on the two large canvases again. The original one that I’d thought finished a few months ago, needs a few things doing to it and so I took the bold step! Still some work to do yet, but I’m feeling happier about it now. I’ve also done more on the second big piece and parts of this are starting to come together now. It’s going to be interesting getting back into the studio later this morning to see them, as I’ve been off for the past three days.

Our route ahead ...from the summit of Cairn Gorm

Our route ahead …from the summit of Cairn Gorm

The reason for this lazy absence? Well, of course, of course, we went walking again! Only for one day of actual walking, but we decided to make the most of this latest patch of fine weather and travel north to the Cairngorms ….taking our new little tent with us again. Prior to Wednesday I’d never done any proper walking in the cairngorms. It was just too far away and although we’d considered it for our two weeks holiday in May, we’ve never actually got there then……we both like having the sea near and so we always go to the North West instead! I’d been on three courses at Glenmore Lodge since 2001 and on these we’d been taken into the big Northern corries and at the end of our winter skills course we’d climbed briefly up onto the plateau …….but this trip was to be our first real outing in these hills.

Wow!

Wow!

We couldn’t really have asked for a finer day for this first little Cairngorm adventure…..there wasn’t a cloud in the sky when we left the campsite at Glenmore at 07.00 and it stayed that way for the rest of the day. We didn’t really have any proper plans as to what we were going to do or where we were going to go, except that we’d walk the main path up to the summit of Cairn Gorm and then take it from there. Not perhaps the best thing to do, but I really wasn’t sure quite how difficult the walking would be up there. The map showed lots of rock and boulders and I wasn’t sure whether the paths marked would be easy to follow or whether it would be very slow progress through acres of boulders. Best then to leave it fluid ……we kind of figured that the view from the top of Cairn Gorm should give us a fairly good idea. I’d thought that if things were very rough and slow we could perhaps make our way over to get a view over Loch Avon before making our way back to the car. If however, things looked reasonably good, we could have a go at getting over to Ben Macdui for a much longer day.

The more challenging route to the plateau ...not for me!

The more challenging route to the plateau …not for me!

The main start point for Cairn Gorm is so high that it doesn’t really take too long to get up to the summit. Not of course, if you don’t succumb to the call of tea and coffee at the cafe at the top of the Cairngorm railway as you pass! We of course just had to stop for refreshment, especially as we arrived there just five minutes before they were due to open. And very nice it was too ….and very civilized, sat there in the cool looking out over Scotland from this high perch on the mountain. Very quickly though, the coffee was finished and we were once again back out in the hot sun and heading up the final slopes on an almost cobbled path to the summit.

At the summit of Ben Macdui

At the summit of Ben Macdui

Wow …..what a view and what a great sculptural cairn! Art on a hill! These hills are high and on a day like this the sense of space all around is strong. More to the point, Ben Macdui looked a long way away but the paths in this popular region looked clear and big and with it still being mid morning, we decided to give it a go.

Well of course, I could ramble on for hours about, the fine views into the spectacular northern corries, of the wonderful little loch perched high on the plateau reflecting the deep blue of the sky and of the boulders and grey dusty approach to Ben Macdui ….but perhaps best just to add a couple of photos and to suggest, if you haven’t already visited this incredible place ….to do so. As we sat amidst the boulders on the flat summit of Ben Macdui at just over 1300m, the views were some of the biggest I’d seen ….so many hills and mountains, such a big area of wild spectacular country …and nearly all of it new to us…..we’ll be back …..despite the boulders!

On the descent

On the descent

It’s an interesting thought though that prior to my first visit to Glenmore Lodge back in 2001 to do the Summer mountain skills course for visually impaired, I’d been very nervous about walking in the hills with my limited sight. That week at Glenmore Lodge gave me so much confidence. I almost certainly wouldn’t be doing all that I do now if it wasn’t for that course and so it was very very good to be back and putting some of there teaching to good use in their local hills.

Getting high, (on a hill)….. the easy way!

On Meall Corranaich ...the first signs of brightness in the sky

On Meall Corranaich …the first signs of brightness in the sky

When we were on Harris earlier this month, the combination of wild weather, very rough terrain and my very poor sight, meant that I found the walking there very difficult.  As I’ve said before, when you walk in the hills with a visual impairment, the mental effort is almost as tiring as the physical exertion and so for our first walk since returning from the holiday, I was looking for something during which I could to some extent, relax a little.  The obvious choice would have been to head back to the Luss Hills, but I had a fancy to get up high and with a bit of luck, get some big extensive views.

The perfect lunch spot near the summit of Meaall Corranaich

The perfect lunch spot near the summit of Meaall Corranaich

After trawling through my memories of walks in the Southern Highlands, I remembered a walk I had done probably 8 or 9 years ago with a group from our local club Air na Creagan.  On a fine summer day we’d done a relatively easy circuit over two Munros that lie close to Ben Lawers, Meall Corranaich and Meall a’ Choire Leith.   The first of these, Meall Corranaich, is quite high, its summit cairn perched on a flat grassy top at 1069 m ….it would offer the big views I was looking for and both are almost completely grass covered …giving easy and therefore for me, fairly stress free walking.  The final thing going for these two hills was their location.  They can easily be reached from the high point on the single track road that leads past the site of the old Ben Lawers visitor centre and on over into Glen Lyon.  As the high point is around 500 m, even the walk to the top of Meall Corranaich doesn’t involve vast amounts of ascent …..as I say, getting high without all the effort!

Guy at the summit of Meall Corranaich

Guy at the summit of Meall Corranaich

So then, that was our plan for Tuesday and all we needed was for the better of the two weather forecasts we seen, to be right.  One of them had predicted cloud on the tops much of the day, the other …from the MWIS, had predicted that any low cloud would lift and break with an eighty per cent chance of a cloud free top…..we went with this one!!

We asked our friend Guy if he’d like to join us and as he’d been doing quite a lot of low level walks recently, (checking out a route for some cadets he works with) he jumped at a chance to get up on the tops again and was waiting to be picked up at Kilwinning station almost as soon as we’d asked him!

On top of the world... ..well, almost!

On top of the world… ..well, almost!

It was, quite simply, a perfect little day.  The MWIS forecast proved correct and although when we’d started walking there were dark clouds covering all the main summits in the area, within an hour this had lifted and we could see our route ahead.  The air was very clear and the views even to me were extensive.  Needless to say, we took our time …stopping occasionally to sit and look and enjoy this spectacular scenery.  The mountains still had patches of snow on them and this added to the grandeur of the scene.  As we reached the main ridge leading up to the summit of Meall Corranaich, the views became even bigger, looking out over Loch Tay and nearer to hand, across a high bealach to Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers …the latter being just a few feet short of the 4000 foot mark.  We avoided the path leading directly up to the top of Meall Corranaich and instead headed for it via a very steep slope of grass and stones, but one that was sheltered from the wind and was therefore much more pleasant.  As I neared the top, puffing and sweating ….I glanced behind me to see Guy stomping up the slope ….and I suddenly remembered that he is now 80 …and still has more ‘umph and go’ on the hills than I do!  As my friend Norma always says about Guy…. ‘what a man’!  I hope I’m still climbing hills with as much energy and enthusiasm as he has, when I’m 80.

Descending from Meall Corranaich

Descending from Meall Corranaich

Our efforts were rewarded at the top by the sun coming out and big patches of blue sky emerging all around …it was spectacular.  We had another long break sat out of the wind just enjoying the place.  After a bit, we decided that this top was enough and instead of carrying on to the second hill, we’d just have a relaxed walk back.  This was just the kind of day I’d wanted.

A great trip to Harris

Towards An Cliseam

Towards An Cliseam

Well, as most of you will know, we’ve just returned from a two week stay on the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides.  Last May when we stayed up on the north coast of Sutherland, we managed to get a good Internet connection by driving up to a high point just outside the village of Betty Hill.  We had hoped that this year we’d be able to find a similar spot on Harris and I could keep up with the regular Face Book updates and at least one blog.  The fact that this is the first time I’ve written anything since 26 April, will tell you that our hopes were in vain.  We did make an effort and on the first day of our holiday we drove around checking out all the high points on the local roads ….but nothing.  We even drove up to Stornoway to buy a different Internet dongle ….but this was only slightly better.  We did get brief spells where there was a signal …but not long enough to actually use!  So then ….a brief update is probably now called for.

Rough ground - the hills of Harris

Rough ground – the hills of Harris

Neither of us had ever been to Harris before but I’d long hoped to do the trip as I’d read great reports of the hill-walking there.  We’d booked a small cottage in the village of Tarbert and as it turned out it was just two minutes from the ferry terminal, so we could see sea from one of the upstairs windows and the low hills rose up steeply behind the village.  Just to the west of the village the sea once again encroaches and a ten minute drive on the main road opens up spectacular views of the rugged Harris hills.  They really are quite dramatic despite being relatively low.  That said they are very rugged and there is a huge amount of rock everywhere.  The highest point on Harris and the whole of the Outer Hebrides is An Cliseam, a steep sided hill rising to 799 m.  Before getting to the island, I’d hoped that we might get to the top of this hill but with the weather doing its best ….much rain, wind and even snow on one day ….we didn’t even get around to attempting it!   That said, we did have four relatively fine days and managed several good walks with spectacular views.  You really don’t have to get very high on these islands to get huge views and even the numerous small hills of around 300 – 400 m give some rough and exhilarating walking.

Looking south from one of the low hills on Harris

Looking south from one of the low hills on Harris

The coastline is spectacular and on the west side of the island there are some incredible beaches of pale sand.  We did a drive down the west coast on the first Wednesday of the holiday.  The forecast had been poor but it turned out to be an almost clear blue sky making these incredible beaches look like something from the Caribbean …..only the strong and very cold wind told you different!  The following day it started raining at about nine o’clock in the morning and continued for thirteen and a half hours, turning to sleet in Tarbert around lunchtime.  By late afternoon we watched as the local snow plough returned to the village, (with snow caked on the front of it) having been called in action to help clear the main road over the hills to Stornoway.  When we went out the following day we found the snow down to below 100 m and the hills looked spectacular.  What a difference 48 hours makes ….one day walking on a beach in bright sunshine ….two days later walking in several centimetres of slippery snow.  This really is one of the reasons I love having a holiday in NW Scotland in May ….you never quite know what you’re going to get …a bit of winter or a bit of summer.

On one of the numerous granite slabs - photo by Nita

On one of the numerous granite slabs – photo by Nita

I had planned to get some work done this holiday but as usual the drawing stuff stayed in the bag.  I have though come away with some good ideas for new work and in fact I’ve already started one new large drawing.  As we approached the Isle of Harris on the ferry it was gloomy and wet with a slightly choppy sea.  We’d sat in the café by a window looking west and with the rain on and the spray hitting the window ….the view looked very much like one of my paintings or drawings.  This first piece of work since I returned is based on my memories of this slowly changing view.  It’s not finished yet but I’ll get some photos of it posted soon.

Suffice to say, we had a great time and it is a place well worth visiting ….we’ll certainly be going back again another year …it’s a real gem and thoroughly recommended.

Towards the main group of hills on Harris - Photo by Nita

Towards the main group of hills on Harris – Photo by Nita

Waves breaking on a Harris beach - Photo by Nita

Waves breaking on a Harris beach – Photo by Nita

-o-o-o-o-o-