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Latest Blogs | Scottish Landscape Art - Scottish Landscape Paintings - Part 46

Dismantled crane ….a taste of things to come?

Irvine harbour side

Irvine harbour side

As anyone who reads this blog regularly will know, I work at the Courtyard Studios on the harbour side at Irvine. My space is in the old part of the building that faces the road, and across that, the river and saltings. Until three days ago, just 200 m up the road was an old crane, one of several that used to be used to load and unload vessels visiting Irvine. Even to an outsider like me, it seemed to be an important part of the harbour side, indeed of Irvine’s history …..It was definitely a local landmark and one that gave interest to this wonderful harbour side.

That was of course until three days ago….when it was dismantled and carted half a mile away to be placed in the yard of the Maritime Museum. For the last five or so years I guess, the old crane had not been maintained and the buffeting winter gales had taken their toll. Bits had blown off, the paintwork peeled and the jib was a mass of rust. It seems a shame that such an important part of the towns history and identity as a once important port, should be allowed to fall into disrepair. On hearing of the cranes demise, one of my colleagues visited the towns planning department and apparently the crane has been taken to the Maritime Museum and if funds become available it’ll be restored and a place found for it once again…..lets hope so. Of course, its removal has nothing to do with the planned redevelopment of the Harbour side area ……hmmmmm!

The crane, Irvine harbour side

The crane, Irvine harbour side

Today has been a beautiful day, bright sun and the first real heat of the year. We had thought about heading for a hill today but as we both have a lot of work on we decided to have a less tiring day. Instead, we walked from my studio, out to the sea and then along the beach all the way to Troon, several miles down the Ayrshire coast.

We started, of course, by looking at the space where the crane used to be ..nothing now but the old wooden jetty that similarly, seems to be falling into disrepair and has been fenced off for a good number of years. Will this too be removed at some stage? Just beyond this point the River Irvine meets the River Garnock and together they flow the last few hundred metres before entering the Firth of Clyde. They flow under the footbridge that was built at huge expense to get visitors over to the Big Idea …a science centre that was built to mark the millennium. Sadly, although it was apparently very good, it only lasted for a few years before closing and sitting empty ever since. The wonderful bridge (built to open and close to allow boats access to the harbour) was opened after the final visitor left and has remained so ever since. Let’s hope the new planned developments for the harbour side are going to be better thought out than this our local millennium white elephant.

Close up of the crane, Irvine harbour side

Close up of the crane, Irvine harbour side

Most of the area between the Courtyard studios and the sea is grass. It’s a large area containing a large pond, good quality footpaths and is a fine safe area for folk to come for a stroll, joggers to jog and kids to play …it’s an important recreational area for the town. Today with this warm weather, a lot of people had made their way to the harbour side, all enjoying the grassed areas, the fine views and the beach. The wild life too was out in force this morning with the Skylarks singing above the dunes and the saltings, Eider ducks floating just off of the beach, Oyster catchers and Curlews calling from the mud on the far side of the river.

Much of this area is due for development …housing, retail and commercial units apparently. And there was a big sign on the bridge that suggested development on the far side of the river too. If this takes place I wonder what will happen to the wildlife and whether this now quite peaceful area that pulls in visitors both local and from far afield, will lose the very thing that people come for.

 

The crane close up

The crane close up

People say that with the studios being right in the middle of the new development, that it’ll be good for business. Maybe, but as an artist I worry about what the developers have in mind. I very much doubt that it is going to be as peaceful, as beautiful or indeed as interesting as it is now. Is the missing crane just a taste of things to come? We’ll wait and see I guess. I hope in a few years I can write and say I was wrong.

‘Ptarmigan, early spring, Loch Lomond National Park’

'Ptarmigan, early spring. Loch Lomond National Park'

'Ptarmigan, early spring. Loch Lomond National Park'

‘Ptarmigan, early spring, Loch Lomond NP’, Acrylic & Pastel, 30 x 30 cm

Despite having walked this hill a good many times over the last few years, I’ve only tried to do a painting of it a couple of times.  This little painting, completed several years ago, is based on the view I had looking through my monocular towards the steep upper section of the Ptarmigan ridge on Ben Lomond.  We’d actually been walking on a different hill and had stopped for a meal at Tarbet on our way back.  The early evening sun was catching the snow on the higher slopes of the hill and it looked superb across the waters of Loch Lomond.

Having recently returned from walking the Ptarmigan ridge of Ben Lomond, I’m thinking it’s about time to do another painting based on this wonderful hill.  I’ll be heading down the studio after lunch and so may even start work on it this afternoon.

Ben Lomond

photo Ben Lomond

Ben Lomond

It really doesn’t matter that this is one of the most popular hills in Scotland and that thousands of people make their way to its summit each year; it really is a very fine hill.

We had arranged to meet up with a couple of friends who were staying in one of the lodges at the side of Loch Lomond at Rowardennan.  We arrived at nine o’clock on a beautiful spring morning to find a ‘second’ breakfast of coffee and croissants waiting for us.  The loch was like a mirror and Ben Lomond and the Ptarmigan rose steeply behind, the higher slopes speckled with patches of snow….the remnants of the heavy snow we’d struggled through on Beinn Damhain a few miles to the north west just ten days previously.  From the shore though it was difficult to tell quite how much snow there might be on the steeper upper sections of the Ptarmigan ridge.  We decided to head up to the top of the Ptarmigan and then if the steeper section leading up to Ben Lomond looked clear, head on up, descending by the larger and easy angled ‘tourist’ path.

Ben Lomond, walkers approaching the summit

Ben Lomond, walkers approaching the summit

This really is a great route.  The path up the Ptarmigan starts amidst the oak woodland that skirts the loch-side and then winds its way steeply upwards giving fine views out over the loch.  These views get bigger every time you stop for a breather and on this calm morning the Luss hills on the opposite side of the loch were beautifully reflected in the water.

Despite the beautiful weather we saw very few people, one couple passed us on their way up and three or four more came down past us, but it’s hard to believe that Glasgow is just a forty minute drive from here.  We came across the first of the snow patches near the top of the Ptarmigan and it was deep and slushy and slippery but as far as we could see (well…Anita and my two friends could see that is) …there were only a few patches on the steep ground ahead ….and these could be avoided.  The final clamber up the ridge to the summit of Ben Lomond is wonderful.  The views become vast.   The final little section involves using your hands to clamber through and up a short rocky section that ends quite suddenly, a few metres from the summit trig point.

Ben Lomond, on the Ptarmigan ridge

Ben Lomond, on the Ptarmigan ridge

 

Ben Lomond, near the summit

Ben Lomond, near the summit

We’ve done this route a good few times over the last ten years and never before have we found the top so quiet and so calm.  There was hardly a breath of wind and we could sit around taking in the spectacular views without feeling cold.  It was a perfect day and one that has left me looking forward to our trip to Assynt in a few weeks time.

It’s been a busy week….

On Beinn Damhain

'On Beinn Damhain'

It’s been a busy week this week with paintings to paint, paintings to deliver and a couple of paintings to pack ready for shipping to the USA…..and this on the back of what turned out to be a very tiring walk on Saturday.

Firstly then, the walk.  The plan was to walk the small and probably rather unfrequented hill, Beinn Damhain.  This lies just to the NW of the northern end of Loch Lomond and is a hill I first visited with my friend Guy about eighteen months ago on a very wet and windy day.  On that occasion we never got to the top, turning back not far below the summit in very unpleasant weather.  It seemed just the place to return on Saturday as we were expecting there to be a lot of snow on the bigger hills and Beinn Damhain at just over 680m we thought would be clear of much of it.  Wrong!  As it turned out the snow was down to around 300m and the accumulations increased rapidly as you gained height.  The weather was quite fine though with the heavy dark broken clouds well above our hill and indeed, well above the surrounding Munro’s too.

On Beinn Damhain

'On Beinn Damhain'

We had followed a broad track (built to service the hydro scheme) for several kilometres before heading up rough hillside heading for the lonely little Lochan Beinn Damhain.  Even by the time we reached the loch the snow was deep and made for difficult walking.  We carried on though around the loch and then very slowly up the gentle slopes beyond, avoiding all the steep ground.  It was I have to say, very hard work and very time consuming, but the views as we gained height were fantastic.  Every now and again the sun would break through the dark cloud and illuminate one of the hills just as if with a giant spot light.  Suffice to say, there was much puffing and panting, swearing and cursing before we eventually stood at the top …and it took us five hours, but it did feel good finally standing there.  The descent really wasn’t much easier and we were starting to get a little concerned about the time and daylight.  We had head torches with us so as long as we could get back to the hydro track before dark all would be well.  As it turned out, despite our seemingly very slow progress we were back down to the track by just before five o’ clock and an hour later we arrived at the car, tired and with very sore legs.  To be honest I felt shattered after all that thick soft snow …it was a much harder day than many a Munro we’ve walked and it really was quite an experience.

The Summit of Beinn Damhain

The Summit of Beinn Damhain

The rest of the week has involved making, packing and delivering paintings.  On Tuesday we had a very pleasant few hours taking three paintings up to Blairmore Gallery near Dunoon.  It was great seeing Sylvia and Steve, the owners, and seeing how good the gallery was looking.

Wednesday saw us heading over to Edinburgh to deliver four paintings to The Gallery on the Corner.  As we’d been doing a lot of driving in the past few weeks we decided to travel by train.  This wasn’t as difficult as it might sound as the four paintings were all reasonably small and thankfully the trains not too busy.

It’s just a case of paint, paint, and paint for a few days now as I’m taking a couple of days off next week to join a couple of old college friends to do some walking and possibly even a spot of paddling.  Seeing as the three of us have only met up together once before in the 28 years since all leaving Falmouth School of Art ….well there’s a bit of catching up to be done and no doubt a pint or two to be had.

 

‘Above Loch Tulla, passing shower’

above-loch-tulla-passing-shower-acrylic-pastel-60-x-60-cm

‘Above Loch Tulla, passing shower’

 

‘Above Loch Tulla, passing shower’, Acrylic & Pastel, 60 x 60 cm (work in progress)

With my sight as it is, I rarely get to see rainbows …most are far too faint for me to see. Occasionally though if the skies are very dark and dramatic, I can make them out.

This is a painting I’m currently working on and is based on just such a moment. The rainbow was quite bright and looked wonderful against the dark skies and rich autumn colours of the surrounding hillside. We saw this view several years ago and I’ve already tried twice before to do a painting about it. This is the third attempt …the first two being scrapped. I’m certainly happier with this attempt but at the moment can’t make up my mind abut it ….it’s going to need some time I think. Interestingly as anyone who reads my blog may recall, we were walking on the same hill just a few weeks ago and similarly saw another very bright rainbow over Loch Tulla ….it must be the place to go for rainbows!

‘Glasgow scene 1’

'Glasgow Scene 1'

‘Glasgow scene 1’, Acrylic & Pastel

As you know, most of my paintings are about the natural environment and in particular the upland landscape of Scotland.  I do though, occasionally work on paintings about the man made landscape and this little painting is one of two I did for a customer a few years ago.  It is based on the view from the train as it approaches the bridge over the Clyde and Central Station.  Even since I did this painting this scene has changed somewhat and several of the buildings have been cleared.  It did appear to be a somewhat run-down little area but that is what I liked.

After returning from Speyer last summer where I did a number of paintings based on the cathedral there, I’ve been thinking of doing a few pieces based on the buildings of Glasgow…..a little bit of the urban landscape for a change.

Looking ahead to the summer

Beinn Sgulaird

Beinn Sgulaird

Yesterday as I was walking down to my studio in bright warm sunshine I was ‘buzzed’ by a large wasp that was no doubt, brought out by this sudden bit of nice weather.  When I left my studio that evening at just after six o’clock, the sky was still blue and the low sun was creating beautiful colours on the harbour side.  I have to admit this got me thinking ahead to the long summer days …and the prospect of long summer walks.

During May, June and July I can tackle some of the bigger or more remote hills.  Even with my slow pace, there is still enough hours of daylight for me to reach the higher tops, and get back down to the car before dark.  Indeed in fine weather in June you can easily start walking at five in the morning and not have to get back to the car until ten o’clock in the evening …if of course your legs will carry you for that long!  We’ve only been out that long once (when we walked the South Glen Sheil Ridge) but have certainly had a good few days where we’ve been walking for the best part of twelve hours or so …and it’s great.

On the ridge to Beinn Sgulaird

On the ridge to Beinn Sgulaird

Although we have plans this summer to walk a number of hills we’ve not previously visited, there is one hill that I particularly want to get back to …Beinn Sgulaird.  We climbed this back in early June 2007 and it really was a wonderful day.  This hill is situated at the head of Loch Creran to the west of Glen Coe and as such makes for a long drive to get to it from Irvine…..I seem to remember it took us about three and a half hours to get there.  We left very early (about 4.30 am) but had a beautiful drive up via Loch Lomond, Loch Fyne and Loch Awe and we were walking in bright sunshine by half past eight.

Beinn Sgulaird is a large hill, grass covered on its lower slopes but predominantly rocky higher up with a couple of rocky tops to go over before reaching the summit at 937m.  As one brought up on the mountains of North Wales, it never ceases to amaze me just how quiet most of the Scottish hills are.  Even back in the mid /late 70’s when I first started walking in North Wales with my father; many of these fantastic hills were decidedly busy with large eroded paths and sometimes quite busy summits.  I know of course that this is the case with some of the popular Scottish hills and with Munro bagging catching more and more walker’s attention these hills are more popular ..but that said, you can still have a day in the Scottish hills when  you have a mountain all to yourself.

On Beinn Sgulaird

On Beinn Sgulaird

This was the case when we visited Beinn Sgulaird; in perfect dry weather we made our way up the long west ridge to reach the south top.  It was very hot to start with and demanded numerous stops to sit and take in the views out to the sea and the western isles.  From the south top we had an entertaining wander across to the main summit with magnificent views all around.  It was so good that instead of descending directly from the summit we decided to retrace our steps back along the ridge ….and the whole time as far as we could see, we where the only people on this mountain.  We sat on the south top for quite a while again just taking in the peace and quiet and then realised that the sky behind us was getting very dark.  It had been a warm day and the thought that this might be a thunderstorm approaching made us scamper off down the hill as fast as our legs would take us.  Thankfully there was no thunder or lightening but we did get a little wet before we got back to the car at about half past seven in the evening ….wow, what a day.

Anyway, a return trip is very much due I think and this time I’ll be hoping to get a few sketches done and photos taken that I can use for some paintings.

Photos:  Anita Groves

‘Break in the cloud’

12 'Break in the cloud', Oil, 30 x 30 cm,

'Break in the cloud'

‘Break in the cloud’, Oil, 30 x 30 cm

 

I did this small painting a number of years ago and it’s a painting I still have and have been looking at again more recently.  Based on one of those days when you’re walking along in thick cloud and then suddenly it breaks for a few minutes …but I can’t to be honest remember which hill or time I was thinking about when I painted it!

It does however remind me of the time we climbed Ben Oss.  We’d walked in from the Glen Falloch side and as we started the long climb it started to snow.  It snowed heavily all the way up, driven along almost horizontally at times and very unpleasant.  As we staggered up the final steep little section onto the top, the snow suddenly eased and stopped and within a few minutes the clouds started to break and we caught glimpses into the Cononish glen on the other side.

One of the pleasures I get from painting is that the pictures remind me of the places we visit and the very special moments we sometimes have when walking in these wild places.  Anyway, this painting may be based on our day on Ben Oss ..or another day, another walk ..but it’s started to grab my attention again with its heavy bold paint.  I may try and work a new bigger version of this painting before too long.

Lochlyock Hill and back, via Tinto!

Tinto

Tinto

As I said in one of my blogs a short while ago, I tend to try and follow the best weather when I plan a walk these days.  This was once again the case last Sunday as our original plan had been to go up to Glencoe and to walk Beinn a’ Chrulaiste.  It’s a hill we’ve visited before but is in a great location …sitting as it does on the opposite side of the glen to Buachaille Etive Mor, and right on the edge of Rannoch Moor.  In the past we’d climbed the hill via a broad heathery and steep gully between the crags on its southern flanks.  We’d also scrambled the ‘pink rib’, a relatively easy scramble (if your sight is good) that runs up the crags on the east side of the gully…..but on both occasions the weather had been very poor and we had little if any views.  Indeed, the pink rib was done in driving rain, hail and near the top wet snow, driven on by a strong gusting wind.  I was then hoping to catch a fine day to go back to this hill, and had planned to walk it from Kingshouse, up its more gentle southeast slopes.  Sadly though the forecast for the west of Scotland were pretty bad once again and so as with the previous weekend we looked east for slightly better conditions.

 

 

Lochlyock Hill from Tinto

Lochlyock Hill from Tinto

After some consideration we decided to head over to Lanarkshire and do a walk on Tinto.  As with Beinn a’ Chrulaiste, we’d walked this hill a couple of times in the past and similarly on both occasions we’d seen little if any views ….it’s relatively low summit being well shrouded in mist.  Tinto is a very easy hill and makes for a popular weekend afternoon walk.  The huge path that runs from the car park (on the NE side of the hill) makes a broad scar across the higher heather covered slopes and on Sunday a lot of folk seemed to be just walking to the top and back.  It certainly wasn’t perfect weather, but the cloud was above the top (707m) and as we plodded up the track there were odd signs of brightness every now and then.  It was busy though and if we’d stayed on the main track for much longer I reckon I’d have lost my voice from saying ‘hello’ so many times!  And it wasn’t just walkers out enjoying this superb little hill.  When we reached the cold windy summit, there were two people with paragliders floating around in the strong wind.

 

Our plan though was to head west over to a small outlying top, Lochlyock Hill.  Within a couple of minutes of leaving the summit we’d left most of the other walkers and had a very pleasant wander down and then across to this quiet little grassy top.  We did meet a few people but mostly had the place to ourselves.  We managed to get down out of the wind and had lunch looking out over the Lanarkshire countryside.  By this time the sun was starting to come out and our walk back across and up to the summit of Tinto again was really lovely.  The sky looked very dramatic and the colours in the landscape were bright and quite intense at times.

Although this is not a huge hill, the views from the top on a clear day are quite extensive. ….according to one book I read summits as far away as the Lake District, to the south and the Cairngorms to the north have been spotted.  Needless to say, this fuzzy eyed walker didn’t spot anything so distant but if you were to catch a warm day when the wind wasn’t cutting you in half …well it’d be worth a look!  This isn’t probably one for the craggy hill men and woman that want a bit of a challenge, but it is a fine place to walk and makes a very nice change from the Highlands.  Well worth a visit.

‘Winter patterns, west Highlands’

27 'Winter patterns, west Highlands', Pastel,

‘Winter patterns, west Highlands’

 

‘Winter patterns, west Highlands’, Pastel

This is one of my pastel drawings…. an ‘organised scribble’!  It is done in water soluble pastel on white paper and is based on a rather cold and misty view we had a number of years ago while up in the hills above Glen Coe.  This is one of the pieces currently being exhibited at The Strathearn Gallery and can be seen there until 12th March.